• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

only 7.3v while running

Well the number of factory crimped joints I have had fail on my Norge would suggest crimped joints are not so reliable.
Though it's not always the cripm of the terminal on the wire, it's often the spade terminal fitting loosely.
 
Yet I have a 1999 Toyota Tercel that has ( as pretty well every auto and motorcycle on earth has ) crimped
terminals that are still fine , relays have failed and even a couple of batteries , but no electrical connections !
Industry standards seem so variable . Certainly all the responses here seem to verify that . Does anyone else here think
a registry dedicated to specific failures (electrical) would give us a heads up on what to check and possibly
replace before failure occurs might be an idea to pursue ? Peter
 
Yet I have a 1999 Toyota Tercel that has ( as pretty well every auto and motorcycle on earth has ) crimped
terminals that are still fine , relays have failed and even a couple of batteries , but no electrical connections !
Industry standards seem so variable . Certainly all the responses here seem to verify that . Does anyone else here think
a registry dedicated to specific failures (electrical) would give us a heads up on what to check and possibly
replace before failure occurs might be an idea to pursue ? Peter

Peter, crimped connections work fine until they don't. Crimp connector is by physical contact which may in some cases be sufficient for good conduction. When you don't have good conduction (resistance) you get heat build up. With a solder connection you have good conduction and thus you don't get the heat build up. In the case we are seeing here, heat was generated most likely from poor conduction. Soldering the new connections will prevent that happening again. In many places I will use a crimped connection, but where necessary the soldering iron comes out.
 
LaGrasta -- I concur with JZ's recommendation -- individual connector for each wire, soldered and adhesive shrink-wrapped. I also recommend Honda's 08798-9001 grease for oxide protection and moisture blockage but this is controversial.

Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCFH84Q
Heat shrink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDYQ4ZT

Due to the heat damage you will probably have to cut the original wires back an inch or two to find un-oxidized copper so extending them will be necessary. I suggest replacing wires on both sides of the regulator. Use #14AWG stranded -- solder and heat-shrink. For the connectors use the 6.3mm (0.25in) size -- sockets on the alternator and battery ends; plugs on regulator ends. Use color-coded heat shrink to distinguish functions: alternator windings (Yellow), battery positive (Red) and battery negative (Black). Crimp the connectors on the wires; solder; and heat shrink -- covering the solder joint and extending at least 0.25in past the connector. Having the proper crimping tool, soldering station and heat gun is very helpful.

Soldering the wire to the connector provides two benefits: oxidation protection and mechanical strength. But without a soldering station it can get messy. The adhesive heat shrink provides both those benefits to a lesser extent but should be good enough for a few years of riding.

WRT KD's trinity, a punch block provides a sealed welded connection; a wire wrap provides a welded connection; and a soldered connection provides neither. Soldered connections also have a failure mode due to the solder traveling past the connector into the wire strands where it is susceptible to vibration breakage. My solution is ... you guessed it ... an extended length (0.5") of adhesive heat shrink. But I only do this for a friend's SCTA roadster, not my MG.
 
One preventative step I would always suggest is to spray every connector you can find with some electrical contact cleaner and lubricant. Stop moisture getting in and causing corrosion.
 
The main problem with crimped connections is they need to be properly crimped (including proper stripping of the wire) and properly seated in the connector. Then then most need routing for stress relief and tied down to maintain a stress free position.

I didn't work on rockets but I have wired entire aircraft from nose to tail. Crimp connecters work fine but they need to be installed properly and precisely.
 
The main problem with crimped connections is they need to be properly crimped (including proper stripping of the wire) and properly seated in the connector. Then then most need routing for stress relief and tied down to maintain a stress free position.

I didn't work on rockets but I have wired entire aircraft from nose to tail. Crimp connecters work fine but they need to be installed properly and precisely.


Something to consider. If the aircraft has a problem, you don't take off. If you have a problem the missile better work!!
 
It's bordering on painful . No one's brought up how every house in North America uses Marretts connectors
for their houses :) . Kinda like a crimp connector with a twist ( Get it :D:D:D) Peter
 
Back
Top