• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Water in final drive oil.

finally got off my ass and looked at it closely. you should be able to blow up from the gearbox through the vent to relieve pressure but not suck in. mine passed air both ways. i pried off the top cover there is a plastic insert in there and there should be a steel? ball in there that sits on the hole into the rear end. mine had no ball in there. plastic sleeve is .200 thousands and the only small ball i had laying around was a plain old BB. measures about .173. close enough! I dropped it in put the cover back on and covered 2/3 of the open area with RTV silicone. hopefully problem is solved.
 
I just noticed the same problem with my 17 v7iii stone, rear end was leaking onto tire and completely filled with with white foamy oil. The vent is working properly and I can hear the steel ball in there when I shake it. The rubber shaft cover up front is in good shape and clamped on tight so I'm not sure how the water got in. I just got back from a 2500 km ride on the Quebec north shore and the Gaspe; temp overnight was close to freezing but was between 10 and 15 C when riding, and the last 300 km was in the rain so I can't say if condensation or rain did it. The Guzzi only has 17000 km on it; I have put over 300000 km on my Beemers and never had this problem. I will flush the rear end and change the oil, and keep an eye on it to see if a pattern develops.
Will let you know if I find anything.
 
my 2015 doesn't have the issue for sure. when the last time I had water in the 17 I might have ridden in one good sneeze of rain. of course now with a ball in it there hasn't been any rain for 2 months.
 
vagrant said:
my 2015 doesn't have the issue for sure. when the last time I had water in the 17 I might have ridden in one good sneeze of rain. of course now with a ball in it there hasn't been any rain for 2 months.
Click to expand...
Sorry to revive an old thread, but any updates on this after a year or so with the modified valve? Thank you in advance!
 
sure, I lied. my 2015 went to my cousin. we did 160 miles in a downpour up the Blue Ridge Pky a month ago. It leaked! But not as bad as my 2017 has in the past. Even my V85 got a tiny bit into its rear-drive. flushed 2015 twice and then did the banjo routine to it and the 17 V7III at the same time. I don't know if this has fixed the issue as we are in a Flippin heat wave here with no rain.
I strongly recommend the banjo fix. relatively cheap and easy. nothing to lose.
 
vagrant said:
sure, I lied. my 2015 went to my cousin. we did 160 miles in a downpour up the Blue Ridge Pky a month ago. It leaked! But not as bad as my 2017 has in the past. Even my V85 got a tiny bit into its rear-drive. flushed 2015 twice and then did the banjo routine to it and the 17 V7III at the same time. I don't know if this has fixed the issue as we are in a Flippin heat wave here with no rain.
I strongly recommend the banjo fix. relatively cheap and easy. nothing to lose.[/QUOTE

Did the banjo bolt fix this winter but have not been riding much this year. Checked the rear end oil quality at 2000 km intervals and everything was good until the 5000 km mark when I drove 550 km to Toronto in 12 C weather. A small amount of oil had leaked out and when I checked the oil it was milky, water contaminated, not as bad as the first time. I have not driven in the rain at all this year so I can only assume it is condensation since this was my first ride in colder weather.

I guess I will just change the rear end oil every year, it doesn't cost much and only takes a few minutes.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top