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Tach issue V7III Special

S

Scott Burghart

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
Messages
26
Location
Lafayette, NJ
Hi all...my tach is stuck at around 1,000 rpm when I shut the bike off and idles at around 2,300, about 1,000 rpm off. This happened once before and I shut the bike off and restarted and that fixed it. That day it was idling at 4,000, or so the tach said. Today, no such luck as the restart had no effect. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Scott
 
Hi vagrant and thanks for reply. I though of that but will that wipe out the mileage total? Or is there a fuse for the tach I can try first.........or is that fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Thanks
 
Scott Burghart said:
Hi vagrant and thanks for reply. I though of that but will that wipe out the mileage total? Or is there a fuse for the tach I can try first.........or is that fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Thanks
Click to expand...

It won't wipe out the mileage total. If it did you couldn't change a battery.
 
If that did not help, the next thing to try would be to remove the tach, carefully pry open the metal bezel from the back side to open the cover lens, carefully pop up the needle, then place it back to where the needle would point at the correct reading, and then replace the lens. No, I have not done this myself, just read on the internet that someone fixed it using this method.

You may also check around and see if there is someone who has experience restoring motorcycle gauges can do this for you.

MG V7 gauge needle
 
Last edited:
I took the bike to my dealer today, Blackmann's Cycle in PA, and they looked at it immediately, while I test rode a V85TT, and found that the tach is defective and put one on order for me. I guess in a few months they will have a replacement. At least I can ride it while I wait.
Thanks for comments.
Scott
 
Ken Horii said:
If I remove my battery for charging over the winter, I won't lose my odometer reading or other data? I have a 2020 V7III S.
Click to expand...
Why don't you just leave it in place, connected, and add on a pigtail that allows your battery tender to keep it charge? No need to remove it. As for my tach issue, I was stunned but I brought the bike in for service on a Friday and they called me the next Monday morning to tell me the new tach had arrived. And when I brought the bike in they replaced it in 40 minutes. Amazing service and the importer had the part in stock!
Scott
 
Scott Burghart said:
Hi all...my tach is stuck at around 1,000 rpm when I shut the bike off and idles at around 2,300, about 1,000 rpm off. This happened once before and I shut the bike off and restarted and that fixed it. That day it was idling at 4,000, or so the tach said. Today, no such luck as the restart had no effect. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...
I'm having this same problem. I have a 2017 V7iii Special if that matters. Tachometer shows 1800 rpm with the bike off and about 3000 idling. I tried disconnecting the battery but that didn't help. Any other suggestions?
 
Darren, other than attempting to repair the tach as someone posted above, the only solution I was offered was that it needed a new tach. It was under warranty so not so bad. Good luck.
Scott
 
I'm having this same problem with my 2017 V7iii Anniversario. The warranty expired so I am reluctant to simply replace the tachometer due to concerns that the cause might originate elsewhere which could result in damaging the new tach. Has anyone discovered the cause for the problem or a way to repair the existing tachometer?
 
Chard said:
I'm having this same problem with my 2017 V7iii Anniversario. The warranty expired so I am reluctant to simply replace the tachometer due to concerns that the cause might originate elsewhere which could result in damaging the new tach. Has anyone discovered the cause for the problem or a way to repair the existing tachometer?
Click to expand...
The signal is supplied by the ECU, so other than a wiring (harness) failure, it's simply the poorly constructed tacho that failed.
 
Thank you for clarifying the issue. It looks like I'll need to find a new tach.
 
For V7III only, I am in no way responsible for how
yours may turn out!
There are 2 screws securing the gauge cluster to the top yoke(if you have a windscreen, remove first) unscrew them
and gauges are now free. Screws are allen heads. On the back of the gauges there are 4 screws, 2 for each gauge housing,
unscrew those and the back of the gauges well come off. Remove the j-plugs from the RPM gauge and the Speedo gauge,
push in on the tabs holding them into the back of the gauges. You will see a metal plate running across the back holding the gauges
into the housing. 3 Screws each holding them on, remove the 3 for the RPM gauge and it is now free to be pulled.
You will have to remove the chrome ring as there is no other way to get to the neddle, the lip of the ring is what holds it
on to the housing. It is about a 1/16th lip, CAREFULLY start bending it out , I used a very small jeweler's flat head screw driver.
Go all the way around the gauge and once that is bent out insert blade between housing and ring and gently start lifting ring
off gauge. No matter what you do you are going to deform the ring at the edge, just don't bend it out to far or you will split
that ring. Once you have it off gently turn needle to first mark on the scale right under 0 rpm. Push down on needle center and you
should feel it seat, don't have to be ham fisted with it. At that point move needle to 0 rpm, hook your J-plug back up and turn key on, see if it
is reading properly. If it is put it all back together and enjoy, if it is off a little gently move the needle till it is correct.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS IN THE BACK of the gauges, you will crack the housing! As far as the chrome ring goes put
it back on with the glass and squeeze it around the edge with your hand, there is a large O-Ring that helps seal it once gauge is
back in the housing and if you can, bend some of the lip back just to help secure it. Mine is tight and making no noise so all good.
No I did not video this, sorry, but it is pretty easy to do.
 
I had a similar problem with the Breva 1100 dash needles.
I took it apart because I thought an electrical fault was caused by water inside the clocks - it was not the case. After putting it back together the needles seemed to be off the zero positions. I adjusted the needles by setting them back to zero, but occasionally particularly the fuel gauge, but occasionally the rev counter too have a mind of their own.

When I switch on the ignition the ECU sweeps the needles from across the whole range. Sometimes the ECU seems to overshoot either zero or the top and and then the needles start from a false zero.

My solution to this is to briefly switch on the ignition and off again immediately. This resets the needles and they read correctly.
 
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