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The Joys of Shaft Drive

JasonC

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
374
Location
Katy, Texas
There are certainly some negatives to a shaft drive system. For instance its weight and inefficient transmission of power are at the top of the list.

But never having to lube, adjust and replace a chain are pretty big advantages at my advanced age. And an often overlooked advantage is that shaft drive is so clean. My bike has some 2,500 miles on the clock now and I cleaned the back wheel and spokes this AM in a matter of minutes with a couple of paper towels and WD-40!

20211111 101550

Jason
 
The joys of cleaning splines out of swingarm, having been stripped clean off the tube by twisted splines on a shaft. OR cleaning the teeth out of a case sheared off from brute torque.
You have to have spare's, shafts, tubes, ujoints, and rear drives. Way more expense than sprockets & chain.
 
The joys of cleaning splines out of swingarm, having been stripped clean off the tube by twisted splines on a shaft. OR cleaning the teeth out of a case sheared off from brute torque.
You have to have spare's, shafts, tubes, ujoints, and rear drives. Way more expense than sprockets & chain.
You beat me to it. Over the long term (5+ years) I reckon the shafty costs more in time and money than a chain. My other ride has chain drive and is used about the same amount of time/miles as my Gutz. Chain/sprocket maintenance are a doddle. Modern sealed (O-ring) chains have made a heap of difference in the maintenance stakes.
 
FWIW: In my independent repair shop, last year I probably repaired or replaced 2 dozen chains and/or sprockets. About half that many Harley Davidson drive belts.

I repaired 1 crown ring seal on a BMW K75.

Shafts are infinitely more durable and fail at a fraction of the rate of chains and sprockets. They also require minimal maintenance comparatively, even when put up against modern o-ring or x-ring chains.
 
My much modified Le Mans 2 ( bought new) now has 250,000 kms on it and other than
a rear drive box seal change and 1 driveshaft coupler , the rest is stock. How you've gone
through the number you have baffles me ! Every tire change , unbolt the rear drive box and
grease the splines , certainly this isn't considered high maintenance here is it ? Peter
Forgot to mention 2 cardan joints .
 
I have flogged mine harshly for 50Kmi most of the time w/gear 8/35, 7/33 lasted 15Kmi My poor LM3 hit a Volvo in 07, on now to rehab it.
 
The joys of cleaning splines out of swingarm, having been stripped clean off the tube by twisted splines on a shaft. OR cleaning the teeth out of a case sheared off from brute torque.
You have to have spare's, shafts, tubes, ujoints, and rear drives. Way more expense than sprockets & chain.

Yes, there are failures with shaft-drive systems. But I've never had the failures you've mentioned on any of the four (4) shaft-drive motorcycles I've owned. As mentioned by Moto_Uno it's important to grease the splines---especially on the wire wheel hubs on MGBs! But I digress.

I replace the chain and both sprockets on my KLR every 15,000 miles or so for about USD 200, which isn't too bad, I suppose. But all I do to my shaft drive bikes is change the oil and lube splines once a year.

Jason
 
I am on my 4th shaft drive motorcycle and have done nothing more than periodic gear lube changes. I also greased the wheel hub splines on my 1982 Yamaha whenever I changed tires. My BMW’s have lug bolts for the rear wheels so there is no need for greasing. My older bikes with chains required frequent cleaning, oiling, and adjustment. I also had to replace chains and sprockets somewhat frequently. Although it never happened to me, I have seen broken engine cases when chains broke at highway speed and wrapped around countershaft sprockets. My last chain drive motorcycle (BMW 650 Dakar) has an O-ring chain which requires much less frequent lubrication and adjustment, but it will be going to a new home soon since the V85TT has taken its place for adventure riding.
 
Yes, there are failures with shaft-drive systems. But I've never had the failures you've mentioned on any of the four (4) shaft-drive motorcycles I've owned. As mentioned by Moto_Uno it's important to grease the splines---especially on the wire wheel hubs on MGBs! But I digress.

I replace the chain and both sprockets on my KLR every 15,000 miles or so for about USD 200, which isn't too bad, I suppose. But all I do to my shaft drive bikes is change the oil and lube splines once a year.

Jason
No grease on splines ever, it is NOT a bmw. I have oil on mine & it comes from the rear drive on ea one. Lubes ujoint & shaft. I lubed many bmw splines working in bmw dealerships but NEVER a Guzzi. This crap comes from bmw owners and not the factory or service reps for factory, ALL BS
 
No grease on splines ever, it is NOT a bmw. I have oil on mine & it comes from the rear drive on ea one. Lubes ujoint & shaft. I lubed many bmw splines working in bmw dealerships but NEVER a Guzzi. This crap comes from bmw owners and not the factory or service reps for factory, ALL BS
Is this applicable for the newer V7's as well because from what I've read on the forums is that they require grease on the splines between the coupler, driveshaft, and output shaft
 
I have seen rusted smallblock balls(splined end), some get lubed and some don't. I have also seen rusted bigblock driveshafts. If the pinion bearing housing is open to shaft it should lube itself. Many models have much longer shocks now so angle does not allow it to go up the shaft.
If you pull the drive off and it's not wet w/oil I would grease it. Wipe off all excess.
Mine broke from abuse not cause the splines weren't oil'd.
 
40 years on and I've yet to find a Guzzi drive shaft or rear wheel spline greases from the factory . They were dry as
a popcorn fart on my new Le Mans 2 in 1980 as it was on my new 2018 Eldorado ! And yeah they each charged me
money for the professional PDI they each performed in different dealerships . In other words , remove the rear wheel
and drive box and give it a look ! Peter
 
My drive shaft gear pinion is stuck on the swingarm side. Any ideas on how to remove it so I can grease the splines?
 
On my Breva there is a circlip on the output gear from the gearbox, I used a copper/aluminium drift and give the shaft a sharp "tap" and it then pulls off easily, then you can grease it. To reseat the shaft, push it up to the circlip then a light tap on the end and it clicks in place.
 
On my Breva there is a circlip on the output gear from the gearbox, I used a copper/aluminium drift and give the shaft a sharp "tap" and it then pulls off easily, then you can grease it. To reseat the shaft, push it up to the circlip then a light tap on the end and it clicks in place.

Good idea. I'll try that. Thanks for the quick reply.

I might have one of those laying in the garage somewhere.

Thanks, Mate!
 
On my Breva there is a circlip on the output gear from the gearbox, I used a copper/aluminium drift and give the shaft a sharp "tap" and it then pulls off easily, then you can grease it. To reseat the shaft, push it up to the circlip then a light tap on the end and it clicks in place.
Btw- How about a brass drift? I just don't want to damage/dent it up. What part of the shaft do I tap top or bottom or side?
 
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