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2009 Fuel Line Connector

Lannis

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
218
Location
Spout Spring, VA
Well and truly tucked into the disassembly now. Fuel tank is loose and movable - still connected to the fuel line.

I've seen the posts on an NTX connector, but I know that's a different tank and fuel system. On an '09, what's the right way to take the fuel line disconnect apart? I remember (having had the bike for some years now) that it's easy if you do it right, and you'll break it if you do it wrong. So what's the right way? I've tried doing some pushing and pulling and twisting and pushing one thing that way and the other thing the other way, but nothing obvious is happening .....

Lannis
 
Haven't done it for a while, but basically I push and pull at the same time. Push on the fuel line close to the connector, then while still doing this pull back on the collar. It seems contradictory, but if you hold your mouth right, it eventually releases.
Good luck!
 
Haven't done it for a while, but basically I push and pull at the same time. Push on the fuel line close to the connector, then while still doing this pull back on the collar. It seems contradictory, but if you hold your mouth right, it eventually releases.
Good luck!

To do it your way, he would have to be hanging upside down...
 
Do a search, there's a ton of info and detailed how-to. #1 for success here's a hint, disconnect the power to the fuel pump and crank it over to release the line pressure.
 
Hi Lannis,

Posts 74, 75, 77 give highly detailed instructions…

It makes absolutely NO DiFFERENCE which type of connector you have, either. the elbow attached to the bottom of the fuel tank kind like the Breva/Norge or the receiver hub on the tank like the Stelvio NTX. The process is exactly the same.

Please click either link below and read all of posts 74, 75, and 77. you will fully understand how it works and how to disconnect it.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/th...etailed-with-pictures.9202/page-4#post-166432


Charcoal Canister Removal - Detailed with Pictures


BTW: You do not have to bleed down the pressure in the fuel injection rail first. It will still come apart easily with just a small burp of gas. However, pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine for 2 seconds will relieve all of the pressure should you prefer to do that.
 
Guys -

I share your frustration with people who do no searching for questions already answered about technical questions. Believe me, I have searched and evaluated a hundred different sites related to this subject in the last couple days.

I found this video (among many others) which demonstrates exactly what scott m. has described in words elsewhere on here ...



My wife and I have been using 4 hands to try to do exactly what we are seeing in the video, and exactly what scott m. describes ... and there isn't enough strength (no comments please) between the two of us to slide that locking ring back, regardless of the level of pressure executed to "unload" the locking pins within the joint. The bike hasn't run for 6 weeks (as V700Steve astutely predicts, I will be on next about the oil leak somewhere between the cylinders, but that's for another day) so it's hard to imagine that any pressure hasn't leaked back through the pump.

Before I read the updates to this thread, I had asked on a thread above (sorry for the duplication, my mistake) whether it was OK to just razor the plastic fuel lines that run from the outlet side of the disconnect, to the tee and to the injector inlets, thus allowing me to get the tank onto the bench, where I can then manipulate that plastic thingie in earnest .... ?

Lannis
 
No, do not do that unless you have the $500 fuel injection hose tool to reconnect it afterwards! You will regret it.

Did you read my explanation posts in their entirely?

Use some silicon spray on the pawls and collar side.

Press the connectors together first to back off the pawls. Then pull gently straight back.

It does not take force. If you are using force, then you are doing it wrong 100%
 
Guys -

I share your frustration with people who do no searching for questions already answered about technical questions. Believe me, I have searched and evaluated a hundred different sites related to this subject in the last couple days.

I found this video (among many others) which demonstrates exactly what scott m. has described in words elsewhere on here ...



My wife and I have been using 4 hands to try to do exactly what we are seeing in the video, and exactly what scott m. describes ... and there isn't enough strength (no comments please) between the two of us to slide that locking ring back, regardless of the level of pressure executed to "unload" the locking pins within the joint. The bike hasn't run for 6 weeks (as V700Steve astutely predicts, I will be on next about the oil leak somewhere between the cylinders, but that's for another day) so it's hard to imagine that any pressure hasn't leaked back through the pump.

Before I read the updates to this thread, I had asked on a thread above (sorry for the duplication, my mistake) whether it was OK to just razor the plastic fuel lines that run from the outlet side of the disconnect, to the tee and to the injector inlets, thus allowing me to get the tank onto the bench, where I can then manipulate that plastic thingie in earnest .... ?

Lannis


I'm tracking with you on this one.

I had a plastic tank that swelled from ethanol exposure and I always had a heck of a time disconnecting the fuel line from the tank. The tank swelled so badly that I finally pitched it in the trash and bought a used steel tank on Ebay. Well, connecting and disconnecting the fuel line to the plastic spigot on the fuel pump that came with the steel tank is super easy. So what's the difference in the geometry of the connections---I have no idea, from an outward appearance they look identical. If you absolutely cannot get the collet connector to release from the tank, as a last resort you can....

Jason

P.S. I bought my V7 Cafe used and it came with two worm gear clamps securing two fuel injection connections at the branch where a fuel line runs to each throttle body. So the cheesy worm gear clamps will hold the fuel pressure, but it's certainly not ideal.
 
I use silicone spray also. I do almost all with one hand, all in technique I guess. I have had too much practice.

If the tank has never been off in 12yrs might have something to do with the issue. Maybe.
 
I use silicone spray also. I do almost all with one hand, all in technique I guess. I have had too much practice.

If the tank has never been off in 12yrs might have something to do with the issue. Maybe.

While I'm girding my loins and taking deep breaths in anticipation of trying this again tomorrow (What a strange thing this is ... I built my own house, raised two happy and successful sons, did all the production planning for a $350M/year business for 20 years, and here I'm spending all this time and worry on a tiny little plastic connector), what's the story on the fuel lines? Is it really right to leave plastic fuel lines in place that have been there 12 years and 60,000 miles, and not replace them while the other maintenance, like changing the fuel filter, is being done? What's a "$500 fuel line tool"? Can't we just use high-pressure FI rated 6.35mm lines and FI-rated clamps, like cars do?

I'm not being stroppy - I really appreciate all the help and knowledge here; I'm just trying to figure out why this SEEMS so hard compared to the other 30-some bikes I've worked on over my riding life ...

Lannis
 
It’s all a nightmare “Until you get the first one under your belt”
I’ve poked around with it twice, “But this Winter, third times the charm!”
A metal filter from Todd has been just sitting around, as extra parts are wont to do, 2022 is the year it gets installed !
 
Lost count of how many times i've had the tank off over the past 230,000K's , as Scott said its quiet easy...but saying that the first couple of times it drove me mad. Then I came across the thread below
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/tank-removal.5532/
Refer to Kuzya's (Alex's) post, it worked a treat.
I dont need to use that process any more as it now comes apart easily....might be worth a try.
 
Again I ask if you read all that I wrote? It explains in detail how the mechanism works in the first place. If you actually understand this completely, then you will understand precisely what is necessary to disengage it.

I cannot speak as to cheap worm gear clamps on cut nylon fuel line, (must be using brass metal unions or something that can be pushed inside the 2 sides of the nylon fuel line and then secured with the worm clamp) but it sounds very sketchy and not something I would do.

Well the price of the Doorman 800-300 nylon fuel line kit has come down to about half price. It’s now about ~$250

98560414 E236 406C A302 610681E35479
 
Last edited:
"Again I ask if you read all that I wrote?"

We finally did and we finally got it. Fay is a patient, reasonable lifesaver in these situations, although eventually my frustration, cussing, muttered imprecations and reflections upon the parentage and character and morals of those who wrote the helpful forum instructions, and "Eng. Dr. Luigi" who designed the thing, start to rub off on her.

The problem was that we understood that you press in on the fuel line toward the disconnect, and slide the gray locking ring back in the opposite direction, and while they are in this state, pull the fuel line off of the red plastic thing. BUT there was no relative motion of either of these components ... they did not move at all, even under severe pressure, and I knew from what everyone was saying that they needed to move relative to each other.

So tonight, we finally followed ALL the instructions, and sprayed silicone lube into the connector. Then we worked the fuel line back and forth, back and forth, until we finally got a little motion, and a little more, and finally about 1/16" of an inch of back and forth on the red elbow outlet. Then we worked the gray ring back and forth, back and forth, until we got a little motion as the lube worked its way in, and a little more, and finally about 1/32 of an inch of axial motion. THEN we pushed the fuel line toward the connector, and pulled the gray ring away from the elbow, and holding them together we pulled the fuel line away from the connector and it slid right off. As we suspected, after 6 weeks of sitting, there was no fuel in it, no pressure, but it's all clean and unbroken.

Now I can see down between the cylinders. There is a pool of oil right below the oil pressure sending switch in a hollow in the crankcase casting. I strongly suspect that this is the source of my leak, although since highway-speed winds have been blowing it around, everything in the area is covered in oil and road grit. It COULD be a cylinder base gasket, I suppose, but that's a pretty solid connection, and the oil pressure switch is a little tin thing, so Occam's Razor says go there first ....

Next up, adventures in fuel filter replacement and oil pressure sender source of supply and replacement .... Thanks to all for their input. Not only do I now know how to do it next time, but I can tell other people how to do it with great confidence so that a few people don't have to tell the same story over and over again ....

New thread coming, on oil leaks.

Lannis
cleardot.gif
 
(Scott, this is not at, you but in support of your position)

There is no such thing as netiquete - just because your not face to face with someone doesn’t mean that the same respect and common curtesies that applies in persone doesn’t apply when writing words on a page...

In fact, You should be More careful “online” because those words are here to stay, and will not fade into memories to be mis interpreted / remembered over time...

But yes, some of us are destined to repeat history over and over again, each asking the same questions that has been asked before, because we didn’t use the right search expression or word.
That’s life in the service industry - Stupid customers money pays my bills.

Ps: They aren’t really stupid sometimes they just don’t get it... and that’s what keeps us gainfully employed

Don
 
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