• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2008 V7 Cold Starter Control Setting

I think you are asking about the high idle setting when starting. Basically with it released it doesn't move/touch the throttle linkage, but does move the linkage when you pull the lever. I don't think there is any specific measurement for it.
 
I think you are asking about the high idle setting when starting. Basically with it released it doesn't move/touch the throttle linkage, but does move the linkage when you pull the lever. I don't think there is any specific measurement for it.
There is on the linkage, the screw you make sure is backed off for tune up. This screw is set at idle after all sync etc is finished, You set this screw that controls the max of cable at lever so when lever on is 3200rpm warm. There will be play when shut off..
Like John said not a given length but set at RPM all warmed up.
The procedure is in the V7C service manual .

Edit------- I didn't find it there yet looking but it's same as early Cali 1100
NOPE NOT THERE
Jest of it is--- Move lever full on, adjust screw facing right on top of center linkage till 3200RPM on warmed up engine. Very simple.
 
Last edited:
Correct setting of "cold starter" (acts as a choke)arm to throttle rod control arm ?
Direct measurement from a machine or quoted references ONLY.
Many Thanks
 
Is that a request for help and assistance? Not exactly the best “Hello, I’m a new guy…” intro there friend…

Insisting on a “Direct measurement from a machine or quoted references ONLY.” on a mechanism you obviously know nothing about is ridiculous and offensive to those of us who do know.

GuzziTech is a community. We are all enthusiasts, many with excellent experience and know how and several of us are professional mechanics who donate our skills and knowledge to grateful members and guests alike.

We are not your servants, waiting here to fill your order and take your edicts, especially when you are coming with your hat in your hand for info. I suggest you reconsider your presentation and manners if you intend to hang around.

Niceness counts around here.
———————————————-

To answer your question, there is no fixed setting.

It is not a choke and it does not alter air:fuel ratios at all.

It is a “fast idle” lever going all the way back to the early fuel injected Californias. It’s the same on my 1997 V-10 Centauro. It was the system used before stepper motors came into use to regulate idle speeds.

It only emulates you holding the throttle slightly open to raise the rpm’s during warm up. You set it on slightly, start the bike, adjust it to obtain a nice idle speed, and drive off. About 1-2 km down the road, when the engine is warm enough to maintain a stable idle on its own, you move it to the off position.

As far as setting it up…There should be free play in it when it is off so that turning the handlebars full left or right, causes no raise in the idle and although V700Steve (another professional Moto Guzzi mechanic) and John Zibel (the most experienced Moto Guzzi mechanic you could hope for) have already told you in your first post on this same question, a max of 3200 rom at full on when warm, this is not a critical setting at all. It could easily be 2275 or 2750 or 2913 for all intended purposes because IT DOESN’T MATTER AT ALL!

The handlebar lever is just adjusted to advance the throttle a little bit to keep a nice strong idle until the engine is sufficiently warmed up. Therefore its design is such that it has “infinite adjustment” which you use with your ear to set it to where the engine idle sounds stable and strong even though the engine is cold, and then you ride away. Like I said, down the road, when it is warmed up, you just turn the lever all the way off again. When the engine is already warm you will not use it at all.
 
Last edited:
Not sure where my previous two posts disappeared to, but on the off chance they popped up somewhere.
With the cold start device in the off position i adjusted the cable at the throttle to cold start lever arm clearance to next to l nothing (a sheet of paper passed between without dragging)
With the cold start device on position this pushed the throttle control arm enough for 1850 rpm rising to 2300rpm if the handle bar lever held all the way on (you are pushing against throttle return spring & cold start return springs)
Trust this info is useful as the procedure isnt in the workshop manual.
Stay Safe
 
Your posts are far down the page. All of the upper topics are "pinned" to remain at the top. I've combined all of your numerous posts together here. Best is to click on New Posts or Recent Posts at the top of the screen here.
 
Not sure where my previous two posts disappeared to, but on the off chance they popped up somewhere.
With the cold start device in the off position i adjusted the cable at the throttle to cold start lever arm clearance to next to l nothing (a sheet of paper passed between without dragging)
With the cold start device on position this pushed the throttle control arm enough for 1850 rpm rising to 2300rpm if the handle bar lever held all the way on (you are pushing against throttle return spring & cold start return springs)
Trust this info is useful as the procedure isnt in the workshop manual.
Stay Safe


To find any of your posts...

Step 1: Click on your name under your Avatar. Either of these 2 places work the same.

1

4



Step 2: Click on Profile Page

2



Step 3: Click on Postings

3


There you go! You'll never lose your posts again. Have a great day!
 
Back
Top