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Rear Wheel Removal Tips – HELP

LaGrasta

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
109
Location
Mission Viejo, CA
Yesterday while at lunch I got a nail in the center of my rear tire, blessedly, I didn't go down and was able to limp back to work where I locked it up for the night. I'll haul it home tonight in my van and have at it.

Whn I bought it, the previous owner (Kitze on the forum) mentioned an easy way to remove the rear wheel. Yeah, I didn't pay too much attention, I was overwhelmed just buying th bike. My intention is remove the wheel and have a local shop patch the near new rubber tire and replace the tube. I'll remount everything and be in good order prior to Saturday when I'm to arrive at ProItalia in Glendale (over an hour away) for my fuel tank recall.

So how do I "easily" remove the rear wheel? I do have a shop manual.
 
I'll follow your link and give them a look, thank you.
I have to say, I thought rear wheel removal was involved. I just looked at the factory service manual, it's seem stupid easy. Is this true?
 
Myself I would put a new tire on. I have seen case's on motorcycles that a tire that was patched come apart because if the broken cord's. But that's my 2 cents.
 
I use silicon bath sealant to stick the rubbers in place. I alway end up removing the drive box to remove and refit the rear wheel as there doesn't seem to be enough clearance otherwise. Never heard of anyone patching a tubed tyre since it's the inner tube that contains the pressurised air and that's what gets damaged. If the tyre carcass was that badly damaged you'd be stupid to try to repair it and any dealer would certainly laugh you out of the shop anyway. But then maybe your safety laws aren't as strict?
 
john zibell said:
The trick is getting it back on. Those darn rubber cush pieces don't like to stay in place.


Not if you demount wheel and rear gearbox/bevelbox as a package - and mount again in reverse order.
Also gives you a splendid opportunity to grease those splines. :woohoo:

499625071_72f52cc284.jpg
 
The rear of the bike has to higher than normal. The wheel has to drop down a bit to clear the frame/fender bits when removing/reinstalling. - I placed a patio stone under the center stand.

I got my wheel back on without taking off the rear drive 'pumpkin' - it is very very difficult to put the wheel back on without jamming and marking up the rim!
Arg! I used a lot of masking tape and swear words.

The rubber blocks have to be held in place.

The sharp edge of the drive paddles on the 'rear drive pumpkin' are the areas that wedge and scratch and need to be watched carefully! (I was contemplating removing just enough metal off of one of the paddles tip edges to clear easily.)

But next time I'll try removing the pumkin' as Holt suggests!
 

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Forgot to remind you guys that it's also an equal splendid idea to change the bevel box oil when it's off anyway. Turn the thing upwards down when filling through the drain hole. You don't need to go to Australia for performing the job the easy way, doing so. :woohoo:
 
"But next time I'll try removing the pumkin' as Holt suggests!"

Dang! Hey Ma, ain't that what I jes' said! Godamn 'puter mus' be runnin' faint. Forget using silicon for the rubber blocks and try goose fat instead. Feel free to pass that tip on.
 
Thanks for the replies. Status is now this:
The tire will be dismounted and not patched, but rather just a a tube swap. They tell me that's what they do with bias ply/tube set-ups. My nail was through the center and clean. $15 is all it cost as I already had a new tube.

As for removal, I hung the bike from the rear, strapped to a ladder; dropped the wheel easily, no problems. I can see the differential being a bear to put it back though so my plan is to remove it afterall. It will be so much easier to attach the diff to the wheel, then the wheel to the swing arm.
 
I found it's easiest to deflate the tire for removal and installation. Just did it this week, and had no issues with removal or installation.
Ken
 
it's easiest to deflate the tire for removal and installation

I agree. The one time that I removed the rear drive, it pulled the shaft off the gearbox and I had to remove the swing arm to reattach it. Not a big job in retrospect, but pretty daunting at the time.
 
Moto Fugazzi said:
I found it's easiest to deflate the tire for removal and installation. Just did it this week, and had no issues with removal or installation.
Ken

Mine is all done and correct but as I worked with it, deflation occurred to me as well. I think I may try this next time.
 
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