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Mine were cracked and leaking at 3000 miles. Replaced with new hoses ordered from AF1 and sleeved the new hoses with heat shrink tubing. So far no leaks or visible cracks at 35,600 miles.
Have your oil pump checked immediately . photo is the oil pump from my 08 1200S.
The red triangle of doom is a warning, Doom awaits your bearings if you keep running it.
I used "Scum Blaster" on Stainless exhaust with great results It removed a decades worth of baked on oil and road grim off the exhaust.
Like all acid based cleaner keep it off the aluminum.
I would use the wiring harness off the same bike that the engine came from and EVERYTHING that attaches to it .That would included switchgear, injectors, ECUs, voltage regulator and instrument panel. That would require the least amount of adaptations and modifications. Using the components from...
Check the oil pump, it will still pump oil but at a greatly reduced capacity.
The repairs are a lot cheaper if the work is done before anything else is damaged
The 4 valve motor is a huge improvement over the 2 valve. 23,000 miles on mine with no problems. The swap does not require any clever tricks or fabrication. I used the engine, entire drive train, wiring harness and everything that connects to the wiring harness. The only fabrication required is...
If I was going to buy a early Norge or 1200S I would immediately replace the oil pump. Plus the price would have to be lowered to cover the cost of replacing the pump.
Check the connection from the fuel pump to the filter. Open the cap and turn the ignition on if there is a problem you will see movement in the fuel tank.
I had similar problem with my 07 Griso. The problem was chafing in the tail section about 3 inches in front of the tail light. I started by wiggling the harness with the bike running and waiting for a fuse to blow.
Mine cracked on my 07 Griso. I picked up a set of connectors from a hardware store and soldered them on with no problem after 6 years and a couple of battery changes.
Mine was not completely off I was able to shove it back on with a chop stick. You might be able to get a hold of it with a surgical clamp or specialized needle nose pliers
The Rollerization crap only applies to the pre 2013 4 valve motors which yours doesn't have. I had the same problem with the neutral light on mine, it turned out to be a loose connector on the top of the switch.