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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

At least I got the less common problem I guess... 2 days ago, arrived from an afternoon ride, and checked if everything was ok, since it was a bit hot, had some pinging... The usual.

Battery at 12.0 V. Hmmm That doesn't sound right... Turned on the engine, 12.1 V. Nope, not right at all. Left it yesterday at the dealer. Called in today to check: Problem in the stator. A new one is going to be ordered from Italy. Bike with 18 months and 13k km.
 
Miguel Gomes said:
At least I got the less common problem I guess... 2 days ago, arrived from an afternoon ride, and checked if everything was ok, since it was a bit hot, had some pinging... The usual.

Battery at 12.0 V. Hmmm That doesn't sound right... Turned on the engine, 12.1 V. Nope, not right at all. Left it yesterday at the dealer. Called in today to check: Problem in the stator. A new one is going to be ordered from Italy. Bike with 18 months and 13k km.
Click to expand...

What year and model Guzzi do you have?

Jason
 
Makes me glad I ride old junk, all I buy is $100 34AH AGM every 12-14yrs. AND they start when it says 12.1 volts but not the EV it has to be 12.5.
 
Surely you blokes have someone over there who rewinds automotive stators? I know of a couple in my forgotten spiral arm of the galaxy who do it, albeit 400+ Kms from me. I've had a couple done in the past, mainly to eek out more output from them - 1 on a Beemer R100 and 1 on a Benelli 750 Sei) For someone who knows what they're doing (I don't have a clue where to start even) it's not very difficult - judging by the cost compared to new. Just looking at the pix here I'd reckon that you could up the output a little at the same time.

Hunt around - I don't believe they're not out there.

Btw, you'll get a small boost in useable output simply by installing a MOSFET r/r, due it being much more efficient. With your standard r/r it'll become too hot to touch after not long. The MOSFET r/r will not get more than lukewarm after a whole day of hard running. The wasted heat energy becomes electrical energy instead.
 
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Yes, you can still get your stator rebuilt here in the USA. It used to be that every town had somebody who did this in an alternator/generator shop but those places have all been driven out of business with cheap Chinese parts available at the local auto parts store. However motorcycles can still be done right by these people...

rickystator.com/page/rewinds
 
2015 V7R (still only 1400 miles). Charging at 14.94v...Changed the Reg/Rec with the one offered by GTM as preventive measure (3 batteries in 3 years)...Now charging at 14.80v (fully charged battery). No significant improvement over the OEM unit. Any thoughts? My 34 years of experience as a professional motorcycle mechanic (Japanese, KTM, Husqvarna), tells me that 14.8v is high, but not too high until you get to 15v. Note that this is my personal V7R, and I have no previous experience with Guzzi and don't know the inherent quirks.
 
2017 V9 Roamer, 11,600 miles. On road 2018.
Start the day at 13.1 volt battery charge, end of day at 11.4.
Dealer says 12.5 to 12.7 output is correct. Shop manual says 13-14k. They say no!
They are replacing the stator and possibly the regulator.
I have many different brands over the past 53 years, never had this issue.
Is this a common issue, or just a fluke? I have 4 motorcycles, this one calls to me first to ride.

Thank you!

20210502_163940.webp
 
Redcad said:
2017 V9 Roamer, 11,600 miles. On road 2018.
Start the day at 13.1 volt battery charge, end of day at 11.4.
Dealer says 12.5 to 12.7 output is correct. Shop manual says 13-14k. They say no!
They are replacing the stator and possibly the regulator.
I have many different brands over the past 53 years, never had this issue.
Is this a common issue, or just a fluke? I have 4 motorcycles, this one calls to me first to ride.

Thank you!
Click to expand...
It's a well known issue with the V7's and since the V9 shares a similar platform, it's safe to say that it can occur with the V9 as well.
I had an overcharging issue at around 15,000 miles and replaced my stator with a MOSFET unit that Todd, the owner of this website, sells on his online store. That along with a LiFePo4 battery from antigravity has made my V7 trouble free.
Also a 12.5-12.7 voltage output should be at LEAST for a healthy startup
With that said a simple search on the website will give an understanding of the issue you're dealing with. there's plenty of information on it.
I will be deleting this later
 
Stator failures are not uncommon (on those models) and any service person that says 12.5 to 12.7 is a good charge is in need
of more schooling in electrics as they pertain to motorcycles . Hard to imagine isn't it , the battery reads
13+ volts and he mentions 12.5 is going to charge it ? Peter
 
Yuasa writes:

Unlike Conventional batteries, AGM types cannot be tested using a hydrometer because they are sealed. Instead a voltmeter can be used to perform an open circuit voltage test. The test can be used for both Conventional and AGM batteries. The test is used to determine the following: battery state-of charge, ability to hold a charge and shorted or open battery cells. Before performing an open circuit voltage test the battery must be fully charged.

Charging a battery using the vehicle’s charging system or a battery charger creates a “surface” charge across the battery’s cells. The surface charge needs to be removed before an accurate test can be performed. To remove surface charge, turn on the ignition for about three minutes then turn it off. Let the battery sit for about 10 minutes before completing a test.

Open circuit Voltage indicates what percent of charge the battery has reached after charging. Open circuit voltage for a fully, 100% charged AGM battery is 12.8 to 13.0 Volts. AGM batteries that are 75% to 100% charged will measure 12.5 to 12.8 volts. Conventional batteries have slightly lower open circuit Voltages: 12.6 volts (12.8 volts with Sulfate Stop) for 100% charge and 12.4 for 75% charge.

If after charging the open circuit voltage indicates that the battery is less than 75% charged, the battery is probably no good and should be replaced. Before the battery is condemned, try charging it again. If the battery is still not close to 100% charged it needs to be replaced.

The open circuit voltage test is not conclusive. It is possible to have a 100% charged battery as indicated by the open circuit voltage test that will not start a powersport vehicle reliably. In such cases a load tester is recommended.
 
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Combined this with this thread/post per above note, see this post; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/th...es-dead-battery-please-read.15720/post-164254

@Redcad -- If you need a stator, I have one in stock;

gtmotocycles.com

V7 III - V9 Stator

OE Replacement E3 Guzzi V7 III & V9 Stator Replace your failed OEM Guzzi stator, without purchasing the entire ($300) assembly from Guzzi. While we can't prove it, this could likely be the same Made-in-Asia OEM Guzzi stator that they use on the 2017~20 E3 V7 III & V9 oil-bathed charging system...
gtmotocycles.com gtmotocycles.com
 
New stator installed, 13.2 - 14 amp. It worked out. Tech said heat burns them out; but it is the coolest running bike I ever had.
Hope this one last more than 12k.
 
My recently acquired 2013 v7 Stone isn't charging the battery at all. Brand new battery shows 12.65 V at rest, then drops to 12.1 from idle to any rpm. The bike only has 1700 miles on it, so it certainly spent a lot of time not being driven by previous owner. Should my first step be to replace the VR, or should I check the condition of the stator first? Many thanks!
 
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