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850 T u joint

Dl.allen

Just got it firing!
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Just got a good running 75 850 t of unknown mileage
It has been well taken care of and the rubber boot actually looks fairly new?
Ridden a few hundred miles
Noticed a vibe under load only consistent with rpm of rear end
I'm assuming through research it's the u joint and or carrier bearing
Is the most likely? Any forensic testing without tearing it apart?
How hard is to replace and whos parts should I get?
Thanks
 
You can try putting her on the center stand to get the rear wheel off the ground then put her in gear. Rock the rear wheel back & forth and try to listen & feel for slop at the u-joint. Not a "for sure" test & there is a normal amount of slop in the older drive lines so it can be deceiving. The only sure way is to pull it apart.

Parts are available from: www.mgcycle.com they are good people.

You should pull it down before ordering because there are two different bearings & u-joints. Rear drum models use a different size than the rear disc brake models although some early disc brake units used the small set up. It's a time consuming job but really not to bad to do.

Be careful with the swing arm pivot bolts especially when re-assembling, they are a very fine thread and very easy to damage. The most difficult part is getting the swing arm to go back in and getting the u-joint to slip on the trans spline at the same time. Somewhere in this forum I read something about stuffing a rag under the joint to hold it up and then pulling the rag out so you might want to search for it or maybe somebody else will post with a trick. To get the support bearing out you will need a good set of snap ring pliers and a two jaw bearing puller like a slide hammer. You may want to just pull the swing arm off and carry it to a local garage or machine shop & let them swap it for you.

You may want to try this before pulling the swing arm.

It could be the ring & pinon has wear also. You may want to drain the rear oil & check for shavings. (Refill by measuring the correct amount which I believe is .360 litre or 12oz.)
While the unit is drained pull the rear wheel. There is a large circular plate with 8 bolts that can be removed and this will allow you to see if the surface of the ring & pinon gears are pitted or flaking. I am simplifying this operation as there are seals and gaskets that will need to be replaced & if memory serves there is a cage type bearing that may slip off. If a rebuild is needed then contact Charley at www.zydecoracing.com

I don't want to offer advice that could cause you problems so don't attempt anything that you don't feel comfortable with. I have PDF parts manuals for the T & T3 series with exploded diagrams that I find extremely helpful to see how things go together. If you want copies shoot me a private message and I can email them to you.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Trout

PS: These old Guzzi's are worse than a heroin addiction.
 
I asked the same question of my parts supplier/Guzzi guru. He said that, if the vibration is pronounced in the right footrest, it's the U-joint. If not, look elsewhere. My right footrest wasn't vibrating so I left the U-joint alone. When I pulled it down later for a gearbox problem the U-joint was fine.
 
Thanks for great info
I will take it apart this winter
Doesn't seem more pronounced on the right but definately in the back
I need to look at pinion and ring gear I guess
I had the back wheel up and it's quiet and smooth turning by hand
The shaft is very hot to touch after short ride behind rubber boot is this normal?
 
If the drive shaft housing is getting that hot in that area, I'd say the carrier bearing is suspect. It should get warm, but not too hot to touch. The rear drive should get pretty warm to hot, but not that area of the shaft housing.
 
You may want to park her until you can pull it down 'cause you really don't want to spin that bearing and tear up the housing, boot & joint!
 
Trout said:
'cause you really don't want to spin that bearing and tear up the housing, boot & joint!

You'll be lucky if that's all that happens, you can loose control of the bike and... god forbid.

The lack of connection, for lack of a better word, between the UJ and bearing is probably the worse design deficiency in tonti guzzis. This area has been totally redesigned on later guzzis.

Here's a thread https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/197/7912.html?p=71823#p71823 on this topic that might be worth reading. But now that I think of it I forgot to add my latest method of fixing the problem to get feed back.

MGC sells a reasonably priced bearing/UJ kit.
 
thanks for the info.

I just reubuilt a triumph tiger from the sludge trap up and was hoping not to completely rebuild this 850T

This winter Im hoping to just peek in the bores, adjust the valves, check timing chain and tensioner, new gaskets on the carbs, check wheel bearings and of course chase down the U joint/rear end issue.

Im losing sleep over the decision whether or not to go all the way to the sludge trap and back but it may happen anyway. Its harder to dive into a good running bike.
 
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