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After Long ( 21 days ) immobilization , rough idle and stall

keremarsan

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
May 31, 2023
Messages
41
Location
Istanbul
Hi ,

I was absent for a long hospitalization but everything seems to be in order now ,

After 21 days , I start the bike , battery was okey and bike started with hesitation but starts and the idle is rough , I can not drive it at the moment so I turned off after 2-3 minutes without trying to open throttle , just idle,

The next day , I did the same ,

And today , I start and give it some throttle , bike died immediately ... so I try to restart , it took probably 4-5 sec to start and I kick a little bit the throttle and bike return to normal idle and accept throttle input ( as the bike is covered , I couldn't see if there were any engine light on or not at this rough idle and "not accepting any throttle input "

Is there anyone experienced similar problem ? after long not driven period ?
 
Starting and letting it idle is probably the worst thing you can do. Wait until your can take it out and ride it. A dealer I knew would cure rought running bikes by taking it our on a fast road and pushing it. He called it the Route128 tune up.
 
I would siphon the gas out and put is some fresh stuff.
21 day old gas isn't necessarily the issue. I'd burn out what is in the tank and fill with fresh. I've run year old gas with no issues. Considering where he is he might want to add some dry gas (ethanol additive) so any water in the fuel passes through.
 
Update on 21 days storage , rough idle , stall issue !
The problem is related directly to low battery which I didn't see in the first sight where a little red battery indicated is illuminated and the screen goes off for a split of second when stater kicks...
Problem solved after 80 km trip ( like 50 miles ) , battery fully charged and everyting is okey

What I think as conclusion , need a battery charger for more than 2 weeks of storage if without starting the bike , after one month probably bike will need battery assistance to start , and / or disconnecting the battery from the bike .... which is not ideal probable your personal settings ( suspension etc ) will return to initial settings. ....
 
keremarsan, this is interesting. Most newer vehicles with all of the electronics and ECU's require a minimum voltage to operate. A week ago I had a similar issue, I bought a 2020 V85TT used about 3200 mile on the clock. It seemed to run great, I had an 860 mile ride home. After 200 miles I needed fuel and stopped filled, turned the key on and the dash did its cycle. Hit the start button and heard a loud relay click and nothing. All lights went out. Pulled the seat and there are two large fuses a 30 and 20 amp. Pulled both and checked them. Put them back in and the dash lit up but when I hit the start button I got the same result. Some fellow at the gas station was kind enough to help and we went thru a bunch of stuff and finally bumped the bike with a jump pack. Bam it started right up.

I rode an other 20 miles to the next town to buy a battery. I turned the key off and on same result sa before. I bought a sealed lead acid and went to put it in and found that the bike had a lithium battery. More on this at in a bit. Put the new battery in and everything is now fine, in fact the performance of the bike improved, fuel MPG went up and things are now great.

Back to the lithium battery. So I am guessing but I am pretty sure based on what I saw at the sellers house that he uses a lot of battery tenders on all of his MC's. I am going to venture out on a limb and say he was using the wrong type of tender when charging the lithium battery. Lithium batteries require a different charging profile than lead acid. Meaning that if a standard tender was used the lithium battery didn't charge properly hence the low charge level for starting and running. I am going to buy a proper tender that will charge both lithium and lead acid and see if I can salvage the battery.

Note a standard lead acid should measure 12.7-12.8 volts when fully charged a lithium should be 13.5 volts. But lithiums will maintain that voltage until they have a low State of Charge (SOC) 10%ish when they fall over and need a charge. A lead acid when it hits 12.1 volts or lower it is done and damage could occur to the battery if discharged lower. Damage meaning that they may not or will hold a charge.

So before you put the battery on a tender for any length of time pull it and see what the battery chemistry is and get a proper charger.

Just some of my thoughts.
 
keremarsan, this is interesting. Most newer vehicles with all of the electronics and ECU's require a minimum voltage to operate. A week ago I had a similar issue, I bought a 2020 V85TT used about 3200 mile on the clock. It seemed to run great, I had an 860 mile ride home. After 200 miles I needed fuel and stopped filled, turned the key on and the dash did its cycle. Hit the start button and heard a loud relay click and nothing. All lights went out. Pulled the seat and there are two large fuses a 30 and 20 amp. Pulled both and checked them. Put them back in and the dash lit up but when I hit the start button I got the same result. Some fellow at the gas station was kind enough to help and we went thru a bunch of stuff and finally bumped the bike with a jump pack. Bam it started right up.

I rode an other 20 miles to the next town to buy a battery. I turned the key off and on same result sa before. I bought a sealed lead acid and went to put it in and found that the bike had a lithium battery. More on this at in a bit. Put the new battery in and everything is now fine, in fact the performance of the bike improved, fuel MPG went up and things are now great.

Back to the lithium battery. So I am guessing but I am pretty sure based on what I saw at the sellers house that he uses a lot of battery tenders on all of his MC's. I am going to venture out on a limb and say he was using the wrong type of tender when charging the lithium battery. Lithium batteries require a different charging profile than lead acid. Meaning that if a standard tender was used the lithium battery didn't charge properly hence the low charge level for starting and running. I am going to buy a proper tender that will charge both lithium and lead acid and see if I can salvage the battery.

Note a standard lead acid should measure 12.7-12.8 volts when fully charged a lithium should be 13.5 volts. But lithiums will maintain that voltage until they have a low State of Charge (SOC) 10%ish when they fall over and need a charge. A lead acid when it hits 12.1 volts or lower it is done and damage could occur to the battery if discharged lower. Damage meaning that they may not or will hold a charge.

So before you put the battery on a tender for any length of time pull it and see what the battery chemistry is and get a proper charger.

Just some of my thoughts.
Hi , it seems very similar problem and in your case , 2020 with only 3200 miles is very low mileage which will not help to the battery in term of charging / resting cycles , batteries generally dies when not used regular base ... I am an airplane modelist and we are flying big model airplanes with gasoline engines and different type of chimesty batteries so I have a chemistry selectable charging system so in case of problem it is an important point you mentioned , the charging system will use different modes to charge different battery types ,
I have another bike 2021 X max 300 Yamaha , in the same 21 days period , the battery died ( impossible to charge ) and is 3 years old bike like your bike with low mile on it and I needed to change the battery , as @Raven mentioned , it is important I think to have a suitable trickle charger to keep the tension in optimum ... Thank you for sharing !
 
Get a good quality trickle charger. Install it on the bike and plug it in when you're not riding it for more than a few days. Your battery will thank you and peace of mind is a good thing too.

The dealer I purchased from installs battery tender harnesses on all new bikes before sale. When I first plugged my Mandello into my Battery Tender Plus the charge indicator showed red, and didn't switch to solid green for about eight hours. It appears there is some parasitic drain on the battery, most likely from the security system.
 
Starting and letting it idle is probably the worst thing you can do. Wait until your can take it out and ride it. A dealer I knew would cure rought running bikes by taking it our on a fast road and pushing it. He called it the Route128 tune up.
AKA an “Italian tune up.“ Well known in the Fiat, Alfa Romeo, etc. worlds
 
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