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Hello again! As the title suggests I have an issue with the ABS on my 06 Breva. It's not the only issue, but it means I can't get a UK MoT test for it because the ABS light is on. To cut a very long (6 years) story short, I've finally bought a Diag unit to interrogate the ECUs and it tells me that the ABS valve relay, ABS recirculation pump and the Rear speed sensor are all toast. I suspect a faulty relay could trigger a pump fault in the ecu because presumably it won't cycle (and never has), so that's my first target, but I can't find the relay on the bike, or in the wiring diagram, or as a spare part listed online. My final thought is that it must be integral with ABS valve block and hidden in there. Does anyone know where it is or even if it exists? Cheers, HTB
Maybe Todd swapped it (THANK YOU). I just didn't want to answer in the Introductions section.
What you wanted to know on the relay, it is in the control unit. OR they call that part of control unit a relay. No external relay, just like you thought. If all 3 fuses are good, 10A in row under seat and the main 25A & 40A. Then you have to have good front & rear sensors. The light should go out. Sensors have to pick up rings too. It all goes to the control unit which is like a ECU.
That diagnostics said you also had bad sensors. Make sure you have new fuses. Test sensors too. You may need a control unit.
I would just unplug the lite, but that's just me. NOT that I suggest you do anything illegal.
Many thanks! All good advice and I'll get onto it and see what I can see/find out. My early confusion possibly has to do with the way my phone interprets this forum, but I'm on a laptop now, which is much easier to navigate for me. Thanks for moving the thread for me, Todd!
The fuses were my first port of call and all looked good, but I'll restart at the beginning in case I've overlooked something. I've got the loom partly out now anyway. The rear sensor had damaged wiring (that was probably me when I took the swinging arm out a few years back to try and see if I could sweeten the gearbox/drive but there's nothing in there to sweeten - this may become a future topic...) so I repaired the wiring (soldered the joints) and tought it was fixed, but the diagnostics say otherwise. I'll recheck that too. The bike dashboard diagnostics say that the ABS is all working fine, by the way, with no fault codes showing at all. The ABS light is permanently on and not flashing, which I believe usually translates as a power supply issue and that is what I have been looking for.
The fact that I can't find any threads on here throwing doubt on the integrity of the ABS valve block suggests to me that it's a reliable unit. One potential idea is to maybe de-ABS the bike and, having fitted new brake pipes, quite literally take the bulb out, as you say. This would be fine in the UK because there was a type-approved non-ABS model on sale at the same time.
I'll go and get my hands dirty and get back to you!
I could not find the control unit in parts book, looked to me like it is part of the wiring loom on ABS models. I could be wrong though. I only looked at 1 parts book as there are a few.
I have a non ABS 2006 Breva 1100 here in NZ, if you need photos of its layout let me know, I dont think you can "remove the bulb" as its an integral LED mounted inside the sealed dash.
That is intersting, many thanks to you both! I'm hoping to be able to repair the system rather than junk it, because I suspect that will cause new issues... My workshop is under half an inch of frost at the moment, but I should be able to get in there later today...
I'll condense the time flow a bit, but I went back to the workshop manual and noticed that it includes a multimeter diagnostic process for troubleshooting the ABS. I disconnected the ABS block electrics - long connector pictured - and looked at pins 1 to 4 and attempted a check on pin 7 which is the live feed to the rear speed sensor. Interestingly I could get no readout at all from that pin and concluded it was not powering the rear speed sensor. I checked pins 1 and 4 for earth and both were good, but again, no power from 2 or 3 which should be a battery voltage output.
Back to the fuses: all perfect, swapped them anyway. Still perfect, still no voltage outputs. I then checked the fuses themselves for output and the 10A fuse was fine, showing battery voltage in and out. The 25A and 40A, however had no output or input. Time to check the wiring. All solid, except... can you spot the issue?
Yep, the ABS power fuses are connected to the negative battery terminal! No wonder the ABS doesn't work... I bought it like this, by the way and this is the first time I've tried to fix the fault. I wish I'd noticed it earlier but hey, I wasn't expecting that!
Now that the ABS power circuit is connected to the positive terminal on the battery everything is gravy - the rear speed sensor is still showing a fault but the valve relay and control unit declare they are fine, which saves a lot of aggravation. I'll order a new sensor and that should be that, I hope.
In other news I had no idea that this bike has two, yes two diagnostic sockets. One is for the ABS and the other is for the bike ECU. They are shown here held by a green wire for convenience.
If you have managed to get some sort of diagnostic apparatus wired to your bike and can only connect to one ECU when you are looking for two, this could be why. I had no idea this was a thing, but it might help someone out, so I'm mentioning it in this post.
Well hopefully it's cured now - thanks so much for your advice Steve, I may have continued to look for something complicated when the answer was really simple. The implication that it was a power supply issue was always in the back of my mind, but I'd gone past reasonable supposition into madness.
Now I just need to find a sensor and prove everything is fine. And get an MoT.
Keep on Guzzying, everyone, they are marvellous things!
Good update, sometimes it helps to just follow wiring diagram and look in the manual. That's what they're for. Yea, that is a red wire on negative. Good catch.