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Breva 1100 throttle body problems

Ian Toy

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 2, 2019
Messages
52
Location
Bulgaria
I have noticed last few times out on bike that it seems to vibrate a lot throught the bars and foot rests. The bike starts first press of the button ,ticks over fine 1100 rpm and runs good just vibrates bad and been getting worse.
out today and it started to cut out when i came to a stop ,press the starter button and it would start but noticed the tick over was less than 1000 rpm. i was on the side of the road and looking at the throttle bodys and could see the link rod that goes from the left throttle body to the right one was jiggling about.The lock nuts had come loose and the connecting rod was loose and had been adjusting its self. I turned it with my fingers till the bike ticked over a bit better and tighted up the lock nut on the right hand side to get me home , the bike ran not to bad but kept cutting out at junctions , i turned the balance screw with a screw driver to make it better but it did not work.
How do i adjust that rod now to make sure its in the right place, will i have to look inside the throttle bodys to see if the flaps are set the same then lock the adjusting rod off and then do a trottle body balance.
 
The right throttle body has the sacred screw. This is a stop that sets the butterfly. This is uneffected by the rod.

The left body is joined to the right by the rod. In my opinion you just need to do the usual throttle sync and tps reset done at each service. I don't remember there being much slack when the arms are placed on the throttle body spindle that is attached to the butterfly. So not much adjustment on the balancing screw.
 
The right throttle body has the sacred screw. This is a stop that sets the butterfly. This is uneffected by the rod.

The left body is joined to the right by the rod. In my opinion you just need to do the usual throttle sync and tps reset done at each service. I don't remember there being much slack when the arms are placed on the throttle body spindle that is attached to the butterfly. So not much adjustment on the balancing screw.
So adjust the link rod so it just takes up the slack with no pressure and lock off the lock nuts. have not touched the sacred screw only the balance screw so need to get some balance gauges now, had the bike a year or so now will have to learn to set it up
 
Have you got access to a vacuum guage or manometer? Set the balance screw at 3000 rpm.
Then put loctite on the adjuster screw threads and the others too.
I did this early on with the Norge, saved having to balance the TBs again. Turned out they only went out of balance because that screw was moving.
 
Have you got access to a vacuum guage or manometer? Set the balance screw at 3000 rpm.
Then put loctite on the adjuster screw threads and the others too.
I did this early on with the Norge, saved having to balance the TBs again. Turned out they only went out of balance because that screw was moving.
I will lock tight the treads on the link bar as well, as the lock nut was loose and the rod was turning a round with the vibration
 
I will lock tight the treads on the link bar as well, as the lock nut was loose and the rod was turning a round with the vibration

I don't recommend using loctite anywhere that adjustments are made. Unless you have access to software to reset the TPS you are just asking for more problems.
 
I'm sorry I do apologise. I got the right and left wrong. I think I'm going senile in my old age. I will keep quiet in future.
 
I don't recommend using loctite anywhere that adjustments are made. Unless you have access to software to reset the TPS you are just asking for more problems.
Well I do have the technoresearch software, and putting threadlock on the adjuster screw has never caused any issue for me, it's made life easier. The balance has not gone out since I did it, which to me proves that balance problems are mainly caused by that screw turning by itself.
I did find over time that correcting the balance actually also corrected the TPS value, which again I believe, proves my point.
 
Just the thread I was looking for!!! Thanks GT. I have a guys Breva11that has to go 2* or more to be in sync. Enough that the idle does not come back down no matter what. The balance adjuster has to go way in. The stepper does not return idle if it's in past a said point. Nothing has ever been touched on this 30K mi bike & yellow paint is still there even on balance screw. I was going to trim the rod to get it perfect, it would only move the R/H TB butterfly. Just like adjusting a V11 Sport TBs. Any opinions?

I have only seen this issue on 06 & 07 model Breva/Norges, like they got better at setting them at factory later.
 
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