• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Codes 27 & 31 - non start

CarsOrBikes

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Wirral
Afternoon,

Any pointers for an earth/ground path to look for regarding these codes?

I have the front off, no start, can’t hear pump prime (but can’t actually remember if I ever do 😂)

Pretty sure this could be linked to a previous issue after it got washed off, dash stayed lit with key out, but sorted itself out

Dash all works, bike cranks, as said no prime, no start, only these codes

Can’t see any rotting pins or fuse issues

Manual doesn’t seem to cover relay location so well on the big tank bike, can see two the same so swapped those, no difference so returned the location

One other does have some pin rot near the head of the relay but don’t know what it’s for

Any clues would help I’m sure

ECU earth point is clean and all pins are too fwiw
 
Last edited:
The relay location is found by matching the colored wires in diagram to relay, they are not always in same location. All are on holder front right. Clean pins on the ECU plugs also They came out with a rubber cover for it. Clean up earth grounds on frame down by starter under standoffs for cover.
 
Are these codes referring to the injector 1 and injector 2 grounds?
 
Like Steve stated, would chase down wire colors. One you find the relay, test the relay on the bench. Then I would chase down the wires and check for a short in any of the wires. That is where I would start. What year is it?
 
Last edited:
it's an '11 registered later in '16

the end relays are those I'd initially swapped and returned

the inner left is the one that had some signs of corrosion, don't know what it's for, there is one the same on the left side, also swapped these, no difference, so returned

wire colours to injectors don't correspond with any wire on any of these relays, I expect they'd go straight to the ecu or the dash perhaps, not yet looked in that kind of detail

the fuel pump wire colours also don't match anything in the relays exactly

not looked at any diagrams, didn't see any

ecu and dash connectors appear shiny

not looked at wires beneath starter cover yet

have rechecked codes several times after clearing and reattempting start, and 27/31 are consistent IMG 5069 IMG 5068

IMG 5063 IMG 5062

IMG 5059

the tank vent pipe you can see is indeed adrift which is because the end it was connected to (both sides) was blocked, and this side upon removal to clear it, the fitting sheared, managed to clear it in situ as it was causing a tank vacuum - pending item
 
With an account upgrade, you can get the colorized schematics. Wire colors may change in the harness so no correlation of wire color at the injector to the relay. Do get some contact cleaner from an auto parts store and clean up any corroded connectors you can find. Which after seeing your pictures is probably every connector on the bike. https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/user-account-upgrade-donations.14025/
 
so it looks like there are common colour codes for the injectors and fuel pump into a secondary injection relay (37), so I'll look into the colours at least for R/M into whatever relay that may be....
 
just a follow up to say this has been traced, I need to resolve it properly but know what it is, where it is, and what caused it, and have had the bike running

nothing to do with connectors or relays

lost permanent live from fuse four Orange/Green to secondary injection relay on left of bike, Orange from fuse three to main injection relay has its permanent live

Orange/Green tested open circuit

power probed underside of relay at O/G, pump primed, bike started

I picked an end of the loom to expose, which happened to be the fuse box end, and during this it revealed the wiring had chafed through at the fairing support not far away from fuse box mounting

A bit further along the factory installed a protective plastic sleeve which isn't fitted at the chafe location, and it clearly should be

NKLG9671

several wires damaged, and O/G burnt right through

NRXO9679 AFGH9599 IMG 5369

so it could be worth checking bikes at this area, I expect there might be a few rubbing away under here....

RPSQ5680
 
Back
Top