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Cruise control issue

Don Bowen

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
2
Location
Newnan GA
When I first bought my 14t, I couldn't get the cruise to engage. After looking here for info, I looked at, all the clutch/brake switches, no luck. I would push and hold the cruise button long and hard, and one day...voila! It worked, but was very hard to engage and it seemed like you had to 'catch it right' to get it to both turn on and engage. Yesterday, no joy at all, so I opened the handlebar switch mount, and took the switch out. The button appears to have small bit of deformation, (probably from the 1000s of lbs of pressure applied to attempt to turn on). Other than that and a bit of a pinch on one of the wires, (yellow), it looks and moves normally, however still, no joy. Guzzi has only one part listed that appears to be the whole housing #887796, and I'm guessing it includes the start and cruise switch. From the schematic, it doesn't appear to have any wires exiting the housing, so I'm wondering if it is the right part. Guzzi in Marietta can get the $150 part in a couple of days, but shouldn't there be a part # for the switch alone, since it pops out and could be soldered in? Before I proceed, any tips or gouge? Thanks I advance
 
I had a similar issue with my 2016 Audace. I was applying so much pressure to the switch it felt like I was going to push it out the back of the control block. Only under extreme pressure did I hear the tiny micro-switch inside "click" and the green dash light eventually come on. I took the switch apart and initially tried to replace the whole thing with a plain and simple push button switch. I soldered the two wires to the new switch but this confused the computer and the yellow error light came on.

Having cleared the error with the 34534 magic code, I realised that the original cruise control button was not a plain and simple switch at all, in fact the small micro switch inside was mounted onto a tiny circuit board. I took my multi-meter to it and measured a resistance of about 200 ohms across the whole circuit when the switch was pressed (with ignition off). Either there was a resistor in series with the micro-switch or perhaps it was more complicated (via CanBus for example). I put the original back and while doing this I realised that it had been assembled incorrectly.

The small micro-switch is not under the center of the cruise control button, but offset to the side slightly and there is a small plastic "edge" under the cruise button that presses down on the micro switch, but assembly is crucial. If the cruise control button is rotated slightly in its assembly (easy to do) the edge will not line up with the micro-switch and thus it won't activate unless you distort it with heavy thumb pressure. By rotating the big cruise control button slightly so the edge lines up above the micro-switch it now works flawlessly.

Question then is have you checked the alignment of the big-button/micro-switch? Sorry can't answer the question on getting a replacement but simply volunteered my experience of trying to fix it.
 
This is a bit different than what you guys are talking about but it might help. I found that the cruise control button on my Eldorado had to be pushed so far into the switch housing to get it to engage that a lot of pressure was required and it was difficult to accomplish with gloves on. I was thinking about taking the pod apart but then I stumbled onto another solution. I went to the hardware store and bought a package of those little plastic, self adhering "feet" that you would put on the bottom of a lamp or some other item that you don't want to mar the surface it is sitting on. My choices were limited in the store I was at in the middle of nowhere, but I found some that were round and domed as if a slice of a small plastic ball. I put one on the cruise button and it took care of the problem. The foot sticks out further than the button so it takes up some of the travel required to get the button in far enough to make good contact. Now it works pretty much like any other push button switch without any excessive pressure needed to get it to work. An added benefit is that switch now feels different than the adjacent 4-way flasher button and it easy to tell by feel that you have the right one.
Garwood.
 
Guzzi owners I think are the most inventive, problem solving riders in the universe.

Guzzi Making mechanics out of riders since 1921.
 
I really really tried to align the little orange button with the slot and bump on the cruise button, but maybe I failed. I was contemplating putting a drop of super glue on the bump on the button. Thought I would have a 20 second feedback on the connection
 
I really really tried to align the little orange button with the slot and bump on the cruise button, but maybe I failed. I was contemplating putting a drop of super glue on the bump on the button. Thought I would have a 20 second feedback on the connection
From recollection you should be able to rotate it once it is reassembled.
 
IMG_0476.webp IMG_0477.webp IMG_0479.webp Ok, took the switch apart for the 3rd time and discovered the problem. The previous owners, "push really hard for 5-8 seconds had deformed the small pressure point on the button side of the switch. The switch actuator was sliding just inside the contact point on the button. I'm thinking that it worked for as long as it did, and then it didn't. The contact portion of the button, had deformed outside its design and allowed the soft rubber switch to miss contacting anything. So the fix, at least I hope it's the fix, is to make the contact spot bigger. I took a dremel, small bit and made some grabhold spots inside the button, mixed up some epoxy, then filled the hollow in the button up to the level of the contact point. I left the rest of everything alone and I do believe this should depress the switch after all is cured and reassembled. If not, I'll have a very strong button on a non working cruise.
 
View attachment 13020 View attachment 13021 View attachment 13022 Ok, took the switch apart for the 3rd time and discovered the problem. The previous owners, "push really hard for 5-8 seconds had deformed the small pressure point on the button side of the switch. The switch actuator was sliding just inside the contact point on the button. I'm thinking that it worked for as long as it did, and then it didn't. The contact portion of the button, had deformed outside its design and allowed the soft rubber switch to miss contacting anything. So the fix, at least I hope it's the fix, is to make the contact spot bigger. I took a dremel, small bit and made some grabhold spots inside the button, mixed up some epoxy, then filled the hollow in the button up to the level of the contact point. I left the rest of everything alone and I do believe this should depress the switch after all is cured and reassembled. If not, I'll have a very strong button on a non working cruise.
yep that looks pretty deformed - this will hopefully cure it. In the 2nd of 3 shots you posted, the little round plastic spot at 9 o'clock is supposed to line up with the yellow microswitch button - that' what I did to mine and it worked
 
yep that looks pretty deformed - this will hopefully cure it. In the 2nd of 3 shots you posted, the little round plastic spot at 9 o'clock is supposed to line up with the yellow microswitch button - that' what I did to mine and it worked
Yep, I took the spring out of the equation, just to see if the orange piece fit on the round spot. When I pushed them together, then attempted to rotate to make sure they seated, it would spin around freely. I noticed a small piece of the orange micro switch had chipped. Figured the issue out from that. I'll wait to make sure the epoxy cures at the same level as the button and put her back together. Here's hoping.
 
I had a similar issue with my 2016 Audace. I was applying so much pressure to the switch it felt like I was going to push it out the back of the control block. Only under extreme pressure did I hear the tiny micro-switch inside "click" and the green dash light eventually come on. I took the switch apart and initially tried to replace the whole thing with a plain and simple push button switch. I soldered the two wires to the new switch but this confused the computer and the yellow error light came on.

Having cleared the error with the 34534 magic code, I realised that the original cruise control button was not a plain and simple switch at all, in fact the small micro switch inside was mounted onto a tiny circuit board. I took my multi-meter to it and measured a resistance of about 200 ohms across the whole circuit when the switch was pressed (with ignition off). Either there was a resistor in series with the micro-switch or perhaps it was more complicated (via CanBus for example). I put the original back and while doing this I realised that it had been assembled incorrectly.

The small micro-switch is not under the center of the cruise control button, but offset to the side slightly and there is a small plastic "edge" under the cruise button that presses down on the micro switch, but assembly is crucial. If the cruise control button is rotated slightly in its assembly (easy to do) the edge will not line up with the micro-switch and thus it won't activate unless you distort it with heavy thumb pressure. By rotating the big cruise control button slightly so the edge lines up above the micro-switch it now works flawlessly.

Question then is have you checked the alignment of the big-button/micro-switch? Sorry can't answer the question on getting a replacement but simply volunteered my experience of trying to fix it.

Thanks Paul! I had this same problem with the cruise control on my 2014 California. I now rotate the button slightly clockwise while engaging the cruise control. Problem solved!
 
Just got back from a nice ride that the cruise worked properly, with a light touch and no torquing around on the button. Really easy fix to take the switch apart, fill the inside of the button with epoxy. I really hated using the cruise when it was a very hard push. So much more enjoyable.
 
Thanks for that tip. So far my only complaint is it takes a long time to engage, but I can see how the thing can get deformed. I'll remember to be gentle.
 
I had the same problem with the cruise control not engaging. I found that if I didn't wear gloves, it engaged just fine. Obviously not the best engineerd switch. Then there is that built in delay on other switches such as resetting the milage with the mode switch having to be held down for a spell.
 
Someone who knows electronics, can study the diagram circuit of that damned microswitch, and maybe draw?
 
I found if I apply a slight clockwise twist while pushing the button, engagement is much more successful
 
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