ECU "unplugged"

[bmzza]

Hi, has anyone seen a warning that just says "ECU" and has a graphic of an unplugged plug next to it? That, and a constant clicking noise whenever the key is turned to the on position is all I can get out my 2007 Norge, and I can't find a reference to that notice anywhere in the service manual or on this thread. Right before that started, when I could still get more than the power light and the red exclamation point in the dashboard, this code came up: APSN 002

I also can't find a reference to that.

I'd been having intermittent trouble starting the bike. It sat for just over a month this winter, so I assumed first it was battery corrosion. Cleaned it once and charged the battery, seemed like the problem went away for a few days. Happened again, so I recharged the battery and gave it the cleaning I should have the first time, vaselined the connectors, etc. seemed great for another day, then today I was parked for about five or ten this afternoon, and the bike wouldn't start again. Popped the clutch to get it going, ran great (to home) and now I can't get anything out of it except a clicking that won't stop as soon as the key is turned, and the warning sign on the dash that says "ECU Unplugged"

Any thoughts? I'm not the most confident mechanic. I've done a little work on a couple older bikes, but nothing on these newer ones, especially not electrical.

 

[draidt]

Battery toast ?

 

[Penis Rotor]

Given that the battery seems to be completely discharging in a short period of time it is most likely either a duff battery or the alternator has gone to lunch. When it was going what did it say it was charging at? If between 13.9 and 14.5 volts then the alternator is fine and it is most likely the battery is toast as suggested elsewhere. This almost always caused by the battery not being put into service properly, (Why can't people read the instructions?).

If you can buy a new one DRY. Take it home. Add the acid and leave it overnight to soak into the mats. Then trickle charge it for 20 minutes before installing it and you're good to go.

With AGM batteries you HAVE to give them time for the acid to soak into the mats or as soon as you start the bike and it tries to charge it will blurt some of the acid out and warp the plates compromising its longevity. 2 hours is a minimum, but I always leave 'em overnight if I can.

Pete

 

[PP-1753]

Also check battery terminals and the main earth point under the starter cover - these are notorious (in a local way) for not being done right...

 

[bmzza]

well if it's just the battery that will be excellent obviously. The last time I tried to start it with the Guzzi meter showing, it was showing 12.7 or 12.9 before start, and then dropped off rapidly before degenerating to the problems I listed above.

I was leaning toward a bad batter until I got that crazy unplugged graphic and not being able to get the starter to stop clicking even after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery that was there. (are you saying that a dead batter with cause the ECU to claim it's not connected?)

The batter currently reads over 12+ using a multimeter.

 

[cytocycle]

The batter currently reads over 12+ using a multimeter.

This means nothing, I have had batteries register 12volt but have not had load capacity. Autozone can load test the battery for you for free. How old is the battery and have you used a battery tender? also Cleanup and tighten your grounds.

 

[bmzza]

it's about three years old--came with the bike. great news really, was convinced it was a bad battery until yesterday. much happier knowing those various cryptic warnings and codes don't mean something more serious went wacky.

Anyone have any suggestions on replacement batteries? Good/Bad experiences or recommendations on replacements?

 

[john zibell]

Anyone have any suggestions on replacement batteries? Good/Bad experiences or recommendations on replacements?

GTrx (Todd) on this forum sells a good replacement unit. Send him a PM, e-mail (Todd at GuzziTech.com) or search for the thread on it.