If you’re electronically challenged I’d stick with available commercial systems. However if you are adventurous and looking for a reliable, inexpensive alternative, using the stock ignition distributor and advance curve you might find the Chrysler pointless ignition adaptation interesting. I’ve used this system since it first came out in 74, and have recently upgraded components in a recent restoration.
FYI- see
http://home.comcast.net/~gustofur/Guzzi/adpch.pdf
Its components are inexpensive, readily available at any automotive parts store (in the rare event of component failure), and very durable.
I've run this system with one coil, one control box as one system (wasted spark) and as two independent systems using two spark coils and two control boxes. I tend to like two independent systems and currently have the bike set up this way.
I've made a slight modification to the distributor pickup arrangement. It still uses the two pickup coils’ (one for each cylinder) but I've replaced the reluctor with a small piece (fragment) of magnet that was shaped like an arrowhead or pyramid. The base of the pyramid was epoxied to the shaft of the distributor where the reluctor was formerly placed. Most of the magnet is covered with epoxy leaving only a small Tip exposed. The distance to the pickup coil is probably several millimeters.
By using this small magnet the ignition pulse or signal is concentrated or focused more precisely without any indication of a spurious signal especially at higher RPMs. It's almost like a Hall Effect ignition except still a transistorized system. It works flawlessly and if anything puts out too much spark. I had to try various ballast resistor ohm values to keep the spark manageable without having the spark jump out of the coil or breach the spark plug wires and drawing too much current. Two Ohms for the Accel performance coil works best. Without the resistor the ignition draws too much current and at idle the battery is losing current, also the spark is not easily contained and will jump at the least provocation (several inches). So the ballast resistor keeps the spark manageable and also benefits the charging system. Without the resistor there is too much spark and it will break through the spark plug wire. Once that happens the wire is no good.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... id=2048838
The system will probably work with the stock or bosch coils as well.
Testing the setup while refurbishing the Sport
http://home.comcast.net/~gustofur/Guzzi/timing.wmv