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EV 11 jugs on Cal 3, possible or stupid?

vecchio lupo

Just got it firing!
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Fellas, I have a 1990 1000cc California III dresser. I’m the 4 th owner I think, it was neglected when I got her but every day gets better. On a 300 mile trip she started puking oil out the breather …a lot, a lot. Sounded bad as well, came home on a trailer.

Need to know why the over pressurized crankcase.
After checking the breather for blockages, I started on top ends. The left had some unusual wear near the lip of cylinder and piston had some scrapes as well. Not that much but I honed it out and spent some time hand sanding and polishing piston, reassembled. On the right, I found easily 4 times the scoring and the top compression ring was collapsed and flush as well as the middle ring was broken in several places…..that explains the severe over pressure.

I think the Cyl will hone out but I’m doubtful of the piston, so I started to search for a new or used piston “A” size. The ones I found were in Europe and expensive as hell. I did see lots of reasonable EV 11 stuff in the USA.

Has anyone fitted ev11 cylinders and pistons to a 949cc cal3? If so can I use my heads and carbs?

Thanks, it’s always my goal to learn from others.
 

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This is what the left looked like before and after.
 

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The 1100s have a 2 mm longer stroke (80 vs 78), so at the very least, you'd need 1 mm thick spacers under the cylinders. I've never tried the swap you propose, so there might be other issues to overcome.
 
The 1100s have a 2 mm longer stroke (80 vs 78), so at the very least, you'd need 1 mm thick spacers under the cylinders. I've never tried the swap you propose, so there might be other issues to overcome.
Charley, I don't think he isn't looking to swap out the crankshaft. I think just cylinders and pistons. If the distance on the piston from crown to wrist pin is different, that could cause an issue.
 
Charley, I don't think he isn't looking to swap out the crankshaft. I think just cylinders and pistons. If the distance on the piston from crown to wrist pin is different, that could cause an issue.
Yes, I know he's not swapping the crank. Yes, the distance to the crown to from the center of the pin (compression height) would need to be measured and compared with the original pistons. If they are the same, then the spacers I suggested would work, if they're different then they wouldn't. He'd need to calculate what thickness of spacer (if any) was necessary. As I wrote, I've never tried it, so "Vecchio Lupo" needs to do his homework.
 
2ct. From the armchair…

I would not trust my personal measurements , but would rather get some printed engine specifications to compare the two engines to find out how compatible they might be… or get a first class machine shop to help investigate your option, if they could do the job - adjusting things to work.
I also imagine it might not be easy to get a hold of those specs crankshaft lift/offset , con rod length, wrist pin to crown offset etc…

I’d hate see you buy some parts expecting them to be a “close” fit - when there’s no way.

Like the MINI Cooper complète head and cam of mine that’s been sitting down in an OC shop for years…
 
And beyond all of the logistical headaches, is the root of the issue, crank assy balance. Motors aren’t lego projects.
You are correct of course, but with all the big bore kits 850-1000cc and such, I thought a bit more bore, and what else? I’d rather stay stock, but with so much cheap ev1100 stuff, it got me thinking.

My cylinder honed out ok, my piston on the other hand…the rings seem to have welded themselves and the damage is so that I’m thinking ….NO. I have purchased 2 used pistons local (USA) cheap, unknown size as the seller would not clean carbon to check A, B, or C , but $40 the pair seemed a good gamble. Then I spotted a NOS size A (the one I need) in the UK. $50 plus $30 shipping and probably take a month to arrive, but that’s my plan back to operational status.

Thank you for everything. I will abandon the v11 swap idea.
 
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