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Evap removal from a new V7 II

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Guzzi has done a good job of hiding it on top of the engine between the arms of the rubber intake manifold (pic below), so it's no longer the crap can on the underside of the gearbox. There is a little sheet metal bracket bolted through the top hole of the joint between the engine case and the gear box, with the canister fastened to that bracket with a couple rubber covered steel bands.

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Original poster wrote...
After a little over a week of riding without this in place, I can say at least the bike no longer sounds like a bad haunted house soundtrack. And it doesn't run any worse...

The system is much simplified from previous versions used on older V7s. There is just a line from a barb at the front of the tank, to the canister, with the usual two way valve inline; and two lines out of the canister, one to a brass barb on the junction of the two arms of the rubber intake manifold, and one to the bottom of the bike, venting to atmosphere.

I left the two way valve on the front fuel tank line (the vent line for the gas cap area) with a couple extra feet of fuel line added to reach the bottom of the bike, put an appropriately sized rubber vacuum system cap on the barb on top of the rubber intake manifold, and pitched the rest of the kludge.

And the bike runs as well as it did before, with no moaning and groaning at the end of a ride (and for hours afterwards), and no fuel dripping from that valved vent line either...:cool:

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Nice! Thanks for posting. I have been meaning to take mine off, just have not gotten to it yet. I figure it just extra weight, and complexity that is not necessary.
Cheers.
 
I have been actually thinking of putting mine back on - without that damn check valve. The check valve allows pressure to build in the tank when its sitting in the sun. I got tired of hearing the whoose when I opened the tank and ripped the whole mess out. The system might even work properly without that valve, although if I crash, I will run the risk of fuel running out of the tank. I'll take the risk.
 
I left the valve on the vent line, with an eye towards taking advantage of any utility it might provide, and with the understanding that they do crap out randomly. So far I have nothing bad to say about the results of the evap-orectomy. The bike runs fine; full tank, half empty tank, nearly empty tank, sitting in the sun, sitting in the shade, etc... And the effort of removing the evap unit is a good exercise in learning about your new bike;)
 
black47 said:
Other than a desire to not have anything on my bike required by the cretins at the California Air Resources Board
Click to expand...
Heh, well, this is a North America 50-State (also including Canada) requirement, and will soon be a global requirement with Euro 4 on. It doesn't kill the fact that it's an engineered intake leak, that could've been much better suited to a small electric pump, but I digress.
 
I remove those from all my bikes, out here in California they have the on all the bikes. I've had trouble with every single one of those things not allowing the gas tank to vent properly. Best to rip those things out, it changes nothing on how the bike runs otherwise. As far as I'm concern they are engineered poorly and cause the fuel tanks to pressurize causing the bike to cut out or run erratic.

Everybody I know here in California removes those things, the problem of them causing running issues are well known at least in my knick of the woods anyway.

You go onto that other Guzzi forum and those guys from other states are not in tune with this issue at all. They will bite your head off over there. Then the occasional post will come up that their bike's not running right. HELLO.
 
gas tank.webp

This is what happens to bikes that keep that charcoal vent system intact on the bike, or will cause running problems and/or destroy the fuel pump. Eventually it will plug up and this is what will and can happen. Best to disconnect and remove this insane charcoal venting system. Another nice trick is to just cut a small section off the rubber seal so it can vent around the gas cap. This trick gives you two means of venting, one through the original vent tube and run that rubber hose under the bike and then the cut seal is further venting or back up if that hose plug up with a bug or dirt.
 
I also removed my charcoal canister and just connected the main line together and plugged the one that sucks air when the bike is running. Now I get the air rushing sound when I open my gas cap. I better look into this a bit more. I have a 08 Norge but this article interests me.
 
JJC1957 said:
I also removed my charcoal canister and just connected the main line together and plugged the one that sucks air when the bike is running. Now I get the air rushing sound when I open my gas cap. I better look into this a bit more. I have a 08 Norge but this article interests me.
Click to expand...

The system uses vacuum from the intake on the engine to work. It sounds like you connected that vacuum line to the tank vent. Plug the line going to the engine and just let the tank vent to open air (run it down under the engine).
 
YUP.....as said, make sure the vacuum line coming off of the throttle intake is not open. Just plug that line or it will make the bike run lean and make that sucking sound. Not only that you end up with unfiltered air going into those injectors.
 
I had my mechanic remove the canister and now I her moaning when the bike is off. What did we do wrong. I didn't have this before.
 
Seems the same as it was before. No whoosh or vacuum sound. But it's cold and hasn't run for a couple days.
 
Joe Kletch said:
I had my mechanic remove the canister and now I her moaning when the bike is off. What did we do wrong. I didn't have this before.
Click to expand...
Part of this removal process should be gutting or removing the (orange/blue) tip-over valve that is in the vent line from the tank. That is the source of the sound.
 
It is wise to understand how a system functions correctly before one disables it. That system allows the fuel tank to breathe vapors in & out, to exhale excess vapor pressure and to inhale atmosphere when in a vacuum. The check valves is calibrated to control these breathing pressures, and some inhaling or exhaling with cap opening is normal.

The downside to removal is, when done "correctly", the tank will continue to breathe as designed, but those raw fuel vapors will be exhaled to atmosphere rather than the sealed storage canister. This breathing occurs mostly when bike is parked after running awhile. While often not an issue, it does push raw fuel vapors out when parked. Not a desired scenario in your enclosed garage, especially if any gas appliances with pilot lights are nearby.
 
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