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Faulty Oil Pressure Sensor Again on Norge 8V?

Or the pressure is actually less than it should be. Love to know what the oil pressure is with a hot engine at tickover.

But maybe, having been in Bill's position regarding broken oil pumps, I am being too sensitive.

But if the oil light flickers at tickover when hot, that does suggest marginal oil pressure. The sensor should switch at around 8 psi.
 
just posted this on a separate thread but it may well be more relevant this this thread. Anyway, the motor oil has been changed early in the season and the bike has been OEM dealer serviced every year. Dealer has confirmed that the new oil pressure switch is ok.

Oil pressure on idle when warm is approx. 15psi which when I rev up goes up to 60psi. As a result the dreaded red oil warning light comes on when the bike goes back to idle. This goes away when I speed up or when I ride but this comes back on as soon as I stop at a red light. Been told that pressures are within spec when rev'd up or during a ride but not at idle. Dealer does not necessary believe it is the oil pump since pressure goes up to within spec when riding. Been told it could be the caskets at/behind the oil pump (best case), the oil pump or even the caskets deeper within the engine (worst case) as this requires an engine re-build. Costs estimated anywhere between C$1,000 to $2,000 for a 6 year old N8VGT with only 39,600 kms (25k miles)

Thoughts from the specialists would be welcome - thanks
 
I just looked at this thread. I assume u have installed a real oil pressure gauge if u know it runs 15-60 psi? If so I'd be ignoring anything else. Although a Pita I'D change out the two pan gaskets just for grins. If frugal like me u could reuse the new oil.
 
On my Breva 1100, I replaced my oil pressure switch early this year as I had the light come on and dask error 07. I think it is 7 but oil sensor error. Anyway, after several months, last week I got a new dash error for the oil sensor. Only happened at tick over. I reset the errors and happend again. It is a spade connector not a bullet as in the old days (my T3). I will take the tank off and give it a good clean and protect the connector.
 
I just looked at this thread. I assume u have installed a real oil pressure gauge if u know it runs 15-60 psi? If so I'd be ignoring anything else. Although a Pita I'D change out the two pan gaskets just for grins. If frugal like me u could reuse the new oil.
Dealer used real oil pressure gauge so I believe that the psi values quoted are correct. Oil is clear and about 7months old. Love to be frugal too but no sure I would take on gasket/oil pump exchange and put it together ok again.
From what I have read on various posts gasket failure seem to be the most likely cause - too bad its labour intensive (ie. $$$$)
 
As an owner of an early firstgen Norge that suffered catastrophic engine failure when the oil pump fractured :banghead:, and who has also had the recurrence of the dash warnings (that scared me feceless :sweating:), I can assure you with near certainty that yours is, as John says, an OP sensor issue, and NOT, as you fear, "something more sinister."

I am unaware of a single oil pump failure on a Norge with a build date after March 2007.

Unless MG has improved the sensor connection since mine, this will recur. There are other, better connectors out there, at least for my '07.

Safe for LD riding? Yup. That said, get it fixed as it appears you are.

Best,

Bill

Bill,
Sometime back I picked up a pristine 2007 Norge with a build date of March 2007 and VIN ending in 113059. Currently has <10K miles. On a ride this past weekend I was at a stop and noticed the red triangle on the dash suddenly lit up. I pulled away and the triangle light disappeared but I decided to slowly ride home....about 40 miles. The triangle did not return even when stopped again at home. No noise or diminished performance of the motor. When I got home I noticed the 'wrench' service symbol. was illuminated. It may have been on earlier but if so I probably didn't see it due to dim backlighting of the dash display and bright sunlight. Error codes showed DSB 08 which is supposed to be 'oil pressure fault'. Oil level was correct. There was also a DSB 05 fault code (fuel sensor). I don't know what issues will throw that code but the fuel gage, fuel delivery and performance are spot on.

Based on your comments about no pump failures AFTER March '07 and my build date OF March '07, would you personally be suspect of my oil pump? Or, would you suggest checking/replacing the sending unit and see what happens?

Is there any way to know if the pump is shot without tearing into the motor?

Any suggestions from anyone will be appreciated,
 
Posted on the oil pump thread. Swap out pres sender w/new one and see if issue continues. If so pull front cover off & look. Rule out a bad sender first, reset errors then see if you get a new one. You shouldn't need to go far but fully warmed up.
 
Posted on the oil pump thread. Swap out pres sender w/new one and see if issue continues. If so pull front cover off & look. Rule out a bad sender first, reset errors then see if you get a new one. You shouldn't need to go far but fully warmed up.

Thanks for input...sorry about not posting on oil pump thread. Will revert and post there for continuity.
 
I finally got around to changing the sump gasket and upper gasket. Low oil pressure problem solved. The upper gasket had a piece missing near an oil galley allowing an internal pressure leak. The bike even idles better when hot.
I may have to give this a gasket change a try. Do you have any tips to make the job go smoother?
 
I may have to give this a gasket change a try. Do you have any tips to make the job go smoother?
If you do, replace both. See the parts manual in the downloads. Be advised there are fasteners under the oil filter so it must be removed. Also the Allen screws are 5mm.
 
Thanks, guys. I will order the two gaskets but will probably wait until the next scheduled oil change to install them.
 
Yes.

WARNING! Do not over tighten the tiny bolts holding this all together. They are steel bolts going into aluminum threads. People tear out the threads all the time.

Tighten cross pattern, no more than initially snug plus 1/16 of a turn more.

These bolts ARE NOT holding the motorcycle together. They simply hold the oil pan and sump extension piece.

Please do not use a torque wrench either. This is an exercise in “wrench feel”.

Due to age, there are usually oil and other contamination in the threads that people end up way over torquing.

Make sure all surfaces are oil free and just initially snug the bolts plus 1/16th turn additional.

It will be just fine.
 
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