I want to be sure that I'm interpreting my V7III manual correctly: "Turn the handlebar so that the fluid is at the same level as the plug." The "plug" is where the brake fluid line connects to the reservoir...correct?
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Front brake fluid level check
- Thread starter Ken Horii
- Start date
You want the cover of the master level. Then check the sight glass. The translation probably refers to the sight glass as the "plug". About half way is good. Also when you fill, do not overfill as the caliper may not release as there isn't anywhere in the reservoir for the fluid to go.
I have a center stand. Do I put the bike up level on the center stand and straighten the bars to read, or do I use the side stand and then straighten the bars to read the level...(which is what I normally do)? Either is ok as long as the cover of the handlebar reservoir is level with the ground?
Thanks!
put the bike on the center stand, turn the bars to the left until the master cylinder is parallel to the ground, then do what John says above.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2011
- Messages
- 6,512
It is an important concept to understand, that a hydraulic brake is a closed system.
Unless there is a leak someplace, the level of the hydraulic fluid in the system, remains constant.
One should never need to add fluid normally.
Brake fluid in a manual brake system, should be flushed completely at least once every 2 years.
Brake fluid in an ABS brake system, should be flushed completely once every year.
Unless there is a leak someplace, the level of the hydraulic fluid in the system, remains constant.
One should never need to add fluid normally.
Brake fluid in a manual brake system, should be flushed completely at least once every 2 years.
Brake fluid in an ABS brake system, should be flushed completely once every year.
Indeed.
And bleeding the ABS brakes on some bikes requires special software. This software activates the ABS circuit, allowing the otherwise trapped fluid to be expelled into the hydraulic circuit and ultimately flushed with clean fluid.
Jason
Thank you all.
On the “special software” for bleeding: the rear brake on my V85tt is near useless with regard to the extreme amount of pedal to get effect. Using the syringe method I have completely flushed through more than 100% of the fluid to no improvement. Following that I have conventionally (pump, hold, bleed) bled enough to probably replace all the fluid again. No progress. Not clear how the anti skid unit impacts this flushing but I certainly don’t have, or have any idea how to apply, “special software”. Is this likely my problem? Any more info or explanation available? Thanks
The special software merely releases the trapped fluid in the ABS circuit to ensure all fluid has been displaced with clean fluid. You should be able to obtain effective braking by bleeding conventionally.
Jason
Vagrant
GT Reference
If it’s like the v7-3 you must remove the rear caliper and get it above the abs module. Put a spacer in between the pads then just an old fashioned bleed will work
Found this topic with google. I have V7 850 `23 and I don`t have a center stand. The explanation in the manual is very stange and I really didn`t figure out to which way I should turn the handlebar, but did I understand right;
I can just sit on the bike to keep it upright, keep the handlebar straight and then just check that level is above minium ? Very stange explanation if that is also correct method.
All my previous bikes had "min" and "max" markings on the glass or clear plastic reservoir (with markings). There is no maxinum ? When bike is upright/leveled the fluid level on mine is above glass eye in the both (front/rear) braking systems.
It has been that way since factory. I`m not sure did they change the fluid in first service but I think that`s not included in the first service. Forgot to ask when picking up the bike after service.
I know that fluid expands when warming and if the reservoir is overfilled it might lock the brakes. This happened to my friend on track day. Levels are probably below the "imaginary max" because otherwise my brakes would have already locked. I also know that level decreases when pads worn out. Mine has less than 3000km (1865miles) in the clock so I`m not sure should I take little fluid out or just wait that brake pads wear little ?
I should change the fluid next winter so do I need something special tools, like software, to do this or does it work like the bikes without ABS ? I have never changed brake fluids to bike with ABS-system. Usually have done it the "old way" or using "vacuum brake bleeder tool" that works with air compressor.
Thank you.
I can just sit on the bike to keep it upright, keep the handlebar straight and then just check that level is above minium ? Very stange explanation if that is also correct method.
All my previous bikes had "min" and "max" markings on the glass or clear plastic reservoir (with markings). There is no maxinum ? When bike is upright/leveled the fluid level on mine is above glass eye in the both (front/rear) braking systems.
It has been that way since factory. I`m not sure did they change the fluid in first service but I think that`s not included in the first service. Forgot to ask when picking up the bike after service.
I know that fluid expands when warming and if the reservoir is overfilled it might lock the brakes. This happened to my friend on track day. Levels are probably below the "imaginary max" because otherwise my brakes would have already locked. I also know that level decreases when pads worn out. Mine has less than 3000km (1865miles) in the clock so I`m not sure should I take little fluid out or just wait that brake pads wear little ?
I should change the fluid next winter so do I need something special tools, like software, to do this or does it work like the bikes without ABS ? I have never changed brake fluids to bike with ABS-system. Usually have done it the "old way" or using "vacuum brake bleeder tool" that works with air compressor.
Thank you.
If it isn't broken, don't fix it. Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. Unlike BMWs, you don't need to be connected to software to bleed the system. Just suck up the fluid in each reservoir, fill with fresh fluid, and bleed as normal.
Vagrant
GT Reference
The secret is have the top of the master cylinder level. Then I set the full at the top of the bubble. The rear holds almost nothing and is very easy to F up.
As John said, a normal flush and fill. But, do not suck out the last 1/8" or so. Refill it, then suck out again, almost to the bottom. Then fill, and start using the bleeder. The v7ABS bikes will get an air bubble if you pull all of it out of the reservoir, and then you're in for a not so fun project!
As John said, a normal flush and fill. But, do not suck out the last 1/8" or so. Refill it, then suck out again, almost to the bottom. Then fill, and start using the bleeder. The v7ABS bikes will get an air bubble if you pull all of it out of the reservoir, and then you're in for a not so fun project!
It's also well covered in this thread https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-brakes.26236/#post-219034.
Unfortunately, I once did suck out too much fluid and let air get in the system and abs. (V7 III) It was a pain to get out, but by taking off the rear calliper and holding it higher than the abs unit, as described elsewhere in this forum, and going through half a bottle of brake fluid, I did eventually get the air out and the brakes and abs are fine.
Unfortunately, I once did suck out too much fluid and let air get in the system and abs. (V7 III) It was a pain to get out, but by taking off the rear calliper and holding it higher than the abs unit, as described elsewhere in this forum, and going through half a bottle of brake fluid, I did eventually get the air out and the brakes and abs are fine.