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Fuel type issues
- Thread starter wicks
- Start date
Pretty much just pump in what is available. If you have original floats, they may fail in time but I'd use them until they do.
Hi!
Reading this and other old threads it appears that unleaded fuel in Big Block engines (in my case a 850 LM1) is not an issue ?
As the threads are 10+ years old, I am wondering if there is more experience and up-to-date information available in regards to valves, seats and guides ?
As for octane, here in Australia I can get 98 octane unleaded (previously the bike was run on 100 or 101 octane leaded) so I hope 98 should be ok. If not, I can add an additive or play with the ignition timing.
I guess it could also be possible to add up to 10% ethanol to increase the octane. My other newer bike requires 95 octane but it runs well on 94 octane which (at least in Aus) is a mix of 91 octane petrol and 10% ethanol. So the ethanol increases the octane level.
Reading this and other old threads it appears that unleaded fuel in Big Block engines (in my case a 850 LM1) is not an issue ?
As the threads are 10+ years old, I am wondering if there is more experience and up-to-date information available in regards to valves, seats and guides ?
As for octane, here in Australia I can get 98 octane unleaded (previously the bike was run on 100 or 101 octane leaded) so I hope 98 should be ok. If not, I can add an additive or play with the ignition timing.
I guess it could also be possible to add up to 10% ethanol to increase the octane. My other newer bike requires 95 octane but it runs well on 94 octane which (at least in Aus) is a mix of 91 octane petrol and 10% ethanol. So the ethanol increases the octane level.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Original valves and seats are fine with unleaded. The machine shop that does my heads says the seats are "harder than those of a Mack truck engine". Original guides can be worn in as little as 30,000 miles, but that's not due to unleaded fuels. In my opinion additives are unnecessary.
I run premium unleaded whether with or without E10.
I run premium unleaded whether with or without E10.
Moto-Uno
High Miler
Pretty much the opposite of here in Canada and the US, the lower octane fuels (85 to 88) typically have 10% ethanol, where the higher octane fuels here 91 to 94 octane have little to none.
Peter , maybe it's because everything is upside down in Australia
Peter , maybe it's because everything is upside down in Australia
Moto-Uno
High Miler
I should've added that it pretty much eliminates fuel line freezing . I should also add , that at 1/4 million kilometers on my Le Mans 2 I've only replaced my guides twice.
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Instead of replacing guides, I have K-lines installed into the existing guides. An automotive machine shop that has the equipment to install these is needed. They last longer, provide better lubrication, and you won't deform the head by replacing guides.
Thanks Guys, for your informative answers and very good to know that the valve seats do not need replacing.
Could you tell me what K-lines are?
What is upside down I guess is a matter of opinion and from where one is looking
By the way, I am considering changing to electronic ignition and my local MG shop can supply Dyna III. Is that the one to get in your opinion(s)?
Could you tell me what K-lines are?
What is upside down I guess is a matter of opinion and from where one is looking
By the way, I am considering changing to electronic ignition and my local MG shop can supply Dyna III. Is that the one to get in your opinion(s)?
Here is the distributor for K-lines. You will need to contact them for a local machine shop.
sbintl.com/Product/DetailsENG?productId=28
I've been running a Dyna III in my LeMans since 1990. Once you set the timing, it doesn't change. I've also installed a few for others and they like the system.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I've never found a local shop that installs K-Lines, none of them see the point or want to invest in the tools.
The Dyna III used to be fairly reliable, but failures have been more common on those produced in the last few years.
The Dyna III used to be fairly reliable, but failures have been more common on those produced in the last few years.
Charley, I've got a shop in Huntsville that installs K-lines. They work well and it is less than replacing guides. If you want to try them let me know. As to the Dyna system, it has been awhile since I installed one. I think the failures may come from location of the control module. You want to install it where it will be kept relatively cool.
Moto-Uno
High Miler
I should've been a bit more clear when I said I'd replaced my guides twice . I did in fact have K-line sleeves installed
in the first set of replacement guides after they had worn to the point of noticeable smoking . I also found some auto
valve guide seals that pretty much keep oil consumption to a minimum . It's been so long I'd forgotten about the sleeves
until "John" mentioned it . Peter
in the first set of replacement guides after they had worn to the point of noticeable smoking . I also found some auto
valve guide seals that pretty much keep oil consumption to a minimum . It's been so long I'd forgotten about the sleeves
until "John" mentioned it . Peter
Moto-Uno
High Miler
As for the ignition systems , over the years I've had 2 Dyna systems and a Lucas Rita , both lasted for years, BUT,
all of them failed far from home, and gave literally no clue that they were about to fail . Have returned to points
and condensers .( I kept forgetting how well my Le Mans 2 ran stock) . No, you don't get to forget about them for
years on end , but I kinda like to tinker on occasion . Peter
all of them failed far from home, and gave literally no clue that they were about to fail . Have returned to points
and condensers .( I kept forgetting how well my Le Mans 2 ran stock) . No, you don't get to forget about them for
years on end , but I kinda like to tinker on occasion . Peter
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Thanks, but I have a great machine shop locally that replaces the guides for me and has never "deformed" the heads in any way.
The Dyna failures I've experienced recently are not the control module, but rather the pickups.
After a Dyna III failed 50 miles from home and left my Le Mans 1000 a 475 w/air compressor, I went back to points. My present '76 Convert still has it's original points, condensers and coils at 47 years old and 47k miles. I set the points and timing at 18k miles when I "recommissioned" the bike, gap and timing hasn't changed at all since. A little dab of Bosch Distributor Grease is a very good thing.
A few years ago I was asked by someone with an old T-3 what kind of electronic ignition to in stall, as he felt it was essential. I advised against it. My G-5 had 55K miles on it when I sold it in '89. The points were super reliable, and were the least of my problems over the years I owned the bike (there weren't many problems, period, till the clutch hub started wearing). Of course, you need to know how to set up the points ignition, or find someone who does. "Growing up" on Nortons gave me the knowledge. the Guzzi set up was far superior.
Interesting discussion. Maybe I'll give the breaker points another chance, see how much work they will need this time (I "grew up" on a Honda CB450 twin 1969 so I have bit of experience setting up points (not to mention valve clearance)).