Help with my MGX21

[gnevieri]

Hello Guys,

New to the GuzziTech forum, located in Manitoba, Canada. Hello to all

Recently switched from my Harley Vrod Night Rod Special to a 2018 Moto Guzzi MGX21. Me and the wife wanted something more comfortable to cruise long distance with. BIG learning curve difference from the Harley to the Moto Guzzi but so far liking the bike aside from some headaches. The one that is driving me insane in an intermittent starting issue.

When I turn the key on all the gauges function and cycle appropriately… fuel pump engages… everything normal…. Click the start button and nothing. No click no noise nothing.

Had the dealer swap out the starter button…. Same thing… intermittent. Checked the kickstand switch, cleaned it all…. No changes. Battery has been load tested in perfect working order. All terminals have been cleaned and greased, spark plugs all brand new. It will start perfect 20-30 times then cause me issues 3-4 times and so on.

I have tried to search forums but most people experience “clicking” or relay related issue in which does not match the presentations I am experiencing. Has anyone ever dealt with this issue or could lead me in the right direction would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you guys in advance for your help

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Symptoms like yours are a common issue in European and especially Italian motorcycles. They simply do not like intermittent electrical variances. These are usually caused by one or more of three things. Dead cells in battery. Insufficient charge on battery. Dirty or oxidized connection points in battery cables, the battery posts themselves, or the grounding point on the negative battery cable where it attaches to the motorcycle engine block.

The first thing to check is the battery cables.

Many people clean the TOP side which is visible yet does nothing one way or the other, but not the UNDERSIDE which is what comes in contact with the battery posts itself. Check and clean those immaculately. Clean the battery posts as well. Make sure they are very clean.

Next, as I have never worked on a MGX-21, I am unsure where the negative cable connects to the engine block. Follow the negative battery cable to where it connects to the engine block. Remove it and throughly clean it, the bolt and washer, and the metal area where it touches the block.

Also, you say you have load tested the battery and it checks out good. I am pleased you know what a load test is as so many who come here do not and they think that it just entails reading voltage across the terminals.

Given that your battery is good, I would recommend connecting your battery to a charger everytime you park it. I utilize nothing less than a 4 amp charger and I discuss it here in detail as to why. A fully charged battery every single time, is the best defense to these types of issues, especially if you run a lot of electrical devices on your motorcycle like your effect lighting in your photos.

Battery Tenders - Yes/No and What size to get?

This issue rears its ugly head every so often so I thought I'd write about it. When you decide to utilize a Battery Tender (or other manufacturer) type charger to maintain your battery, (and I strongly recommend it), please do not waste your time and money on the 750mAmp wall plug in model. It...

www.guzzitech.com

Try these things and post back your results and findings. If need be, we can go onward from there.

 

[V700Steve]

Check voltage on wire at solenoid when pressing button. You need +12 ideally, it could be 9V if clicks.

If you are stuck hook a hot lead from batt + to that little wire spade on solenoid and it WILL run starter to start bike.
It bypasses system on bike, If it doesn't start bike the battery is toast.

 

[Kevin.NZ]

Is it possible to run a jumper cable directly from the battery positive + to the starter motor and bypass the solenoid, they have been known to go faulty or even an intermittent starter motor . When you connect the cable to the starter motor do it firmly and quickly, you don't want any arcing or you could damage the screw thread. Or you could connect it to the starter 1st and then touch it to the battery positive +terminal. If the engine spins over every time you try it you hopefully have eliminated that side of the issue.

 

[GTM®]

Has anyone ever dealt with this issue or could lead me in the right direction would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you guys in advance for your help

Note all of the replies above are from VERY experienced Guzzisiti here, who normally charge dearly for their time. Please read the scrolling paragraphs at the top of the page.

 

[gnevieri]

Symptoms like yours are a common issue in European and especially Italian motorcycles. They simply do not like intermittent electrical variances. These are usually caused by one or more of three things. Dead cells in battery. Insufficient charge on battery. Dirty or oxidized connection points in battery cables, the battery posts themselves, or the grounding point on the negative battery cable where it attaches to the motorcycle engine block.

The first thing to check is the battery cables.

Many people clean the TOP side which is visible yet does nothing one way or the other, but not the UNDERSIDE which is what comes in contact with the battery posts itself. Check and clean those immaculately. Clean the battery posts as well. Make sure they are very clean.

Next, as I have never worked on a MGX-21, I am unsure where the negative cable connects to the engine block. Follow the negative battery cable to where it connects to the engine block. Remove it and throughly clean it, the bolt and washer, and the metal area where it touches the block.

Also, you say you have load tested the battery and it checks out good. I am pleased you know what a load test is as so many who come here do not and they think that it just entails reading voltage across the terminals.

Given that your battery is good, I would recommend connecting your battery to a charger everytime you park it. I utilize nothing less than a 4 amp charger and I discuss it here in detail as to why. A fully charged battery every single time, is the best defense to these types of issues, especially if you run a lot of electrical devices on your motorcycle like your effect lighting.

Battery Tenders - Yes/No and What size to get?

This issue rears its ugly head every so often so I thought I'd write about it. When you decide to utilize a Battery Tender (or other manufacturer) type charger to maintain your battery, (and I strongly recommend it), please do not waste your time and money on the 750mAmp wall plug in model. It...

www.guzzitech.com

Try these things and post back your results and findings. If need be, we can go onward from there.

Thanks my man I will try those this week and update you. I’ve heard that there is “upgrade” kits for the battery wiring to a higher gauge cable that counteracts some electrical issues on these type of bikes. Have you heard of this at all with the Guzzi’s ?

 

[Vagrant]

Get a can of Craig deoxit. Flush the start button even new ones can have poor contact. Pull the relays and flush them too if all of the above fails.
I'd do the ignition switch also.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Thanks my man I will try those this week and update you. I’ve heard that there is “upgrade” kits for the battery wiring to a higher gauge cable that counteracts some electrical issues on these type of bikes. Have you heard of this at all with the Guzzi’s ?

You are most welcome.

As to your other question…Yes I have heard of and in fact have this relay in both my 1200 Sport and Norge 1200. I do not believe it is applicable to the 1400’s as far as I know. I do know that I do not have it on my 1400 Eldorado.

The kit you are describing is from MPH Cycles in the USA and it is called a Hard Start Relay or “Startus Interruptus” relay, but there is no application on the 1400 listed on their website.

You could Google them (MPH Cycle) and send them a question about it.

I’m pretty sure though the ignition design is different on the 1400’s from the earlier bikes which exhibited this issue.

Hope this helps you.

 

[Mayakovski]

Get a can of Craig deoxit. Flush the start button even new ones can have poor contact. Pull the relays and flush them too if all of the above fails.
I'd do the ignition switch also.

Just to be a nit picker, it's called "Caig DeoxIT".
Never heard of it before, but I will be using it on my 2017 V7 III, as my started button sticks at times. Thanks for the recommendation..

 

[Sempervee1]

Or can of electric cleaner spray worked for me...

 

[Nordicnorm]

I have used a marine product called "Corrosion Block" for many years. Safe even on electronic curcuit boards, and inside electric motors etc. In the US try West Marine. Contact cleaner first, followed by this stuff got rid of all my nuisance service alerts quite a few years ago, and they have never returned. It is also a penetrating lubricant.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

I have used a marine product called "Corrosion Block" for many years. Safe even on electronic curcuit boards, and inside electric motors etc. In the US try West Marine. Contact cleaner first, followed by this stuff got rid of all my nuisance service alerts quite a few years ago, and they have never returned. It is also a penetrating lubricant.

You know how much I love modern chemistry!

Thank you very much for this info. I just ordered a gallon for my shop.

My Ural loves corrosion like a Russian loves vodka!

 

[Mayakovski]

You know how much I love modern chemistry!

Thank you very much for this info. I just ordered a gallon for my shop.

My Ural loves corrosion like a Russian loves vodka!

Then 1 gallon will not be nearly enough.

 

[Nordicnorm]

After all you have given this forum, I am pleased you could use that

 

[William H.]

I have used a marine product called "Corrosion Block" for many years. Safe even on electronic curcuit boards, and inside electric motors etc. In the US try West Marine. Contact cleaner first, followed by this stuff got rid of all my nuisance service alerts quite a few years ago, and they have never returned. It is also a penetrating lubricant.

Yes Corrosion Block and also CorrosionX. I have used both with great results.
CorrosionX has a Mil spec & FAA rating.

 

[John L]

It wouldn't hurt to check and clean your 40A fuse they have been known to corrode in the holder and cause problems

 

[gnevieri]

It wouldn't hurt to check and clean your 40A fuse they have been known to corrode in the holder and cause problems

Haha funny you mentioned that, literally just did all the main fuses as I noticed that. Blades didnt seem nice and clean so gave them all a good brush and reinstalled thank you