• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

How to change your Alternator Belt in 45 Seconds. Norge and Others.

MarkReck

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Messages
4
Location
55364
Assuming you've exposed the timing belt by removing the oil cooler and belt cover, covered elsewhere:

-Position a 24mm socket over the Lower Pulley's Center Nut with a handle attached. Long Breaker Bar not required.
-Insert a thin but strong, wide-ish wedge at the point the belt meets the pulley ( I used a Performance Tool # W80645) But other items will work.
-Rotate the Pulley a few degrees, de-railing the belt partially, pull out the tool, continue rotation. The belt will pop off. Remove from upper pulley.
-(Or just cut it off. Then look at it and realize it's fine, at my 36K mile interval anyway.)

-Install new belt over the upper pulley
-Get it started on the lower pulley as far as possible by hand
-Rotate the pulley until it pops on and seats
-Check tension. If the original belt was tensioned correctly, the new one will probably be also,

With my 08 Norge, getting at the tensioner to remove the belt in the manner prescribed elsewhere was impossible without removing all kinds of plastic, the header pipe, etc. figured there had to be an easier way. And there is.

 
Back
Top