• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

how to disassemble the headlight (Breva 1200, MY'2008)

pswiatki

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
96
Location
Wrocław, POLSKA
Can the headlight be disassembled? Is it possible to pry open the outer chrome ring to get inside the reflector? I think the entire insert got loose inside the "box" and I wonder if it makes sense to try to repair it, or just retire this thing and get something better.
 
A friends Breva 1100 headlight went "loose" inside, turned out to be the plastic block that adjusts the headlight had got hot and brittle and consequently cracked. He did manage a temporary repair using epoxy, but in the end had to purchase a replacement. I had a go at dismantling the old one. The outer chrome ring is held in with glue, i heated it in the oven to soften the glue, I did get it off in the end. Saw how the mechanism worked, but it was a one way job and I broke too many bits prying it apart. I think his overheated because he put a perspex lens protector in front of the headlight and the wind didn't take the heat away
 
A friends Breva 1100 headlight went "loose" inside, turned out to be the plastic block that adjusts the headlight had got hot and brittle and consequently cracked. He did manage a temporary repair using epoxy, but in the end, had to purchase a replacement. I had a go at dismantling the old one. The outer chrome ring is held in with glue, i heated it in the oven to soften the glue, I did get it off in the end. Saw how the mechanism worked, but it was a one-way job and I broke too many bits prying it apart. I think his overheated because he put a perspex lens protector in front of the headlight and the wind didn't take the heat away
Thank you much, Kevin. Yes, exactly - those adjusters are craked - I can see that through the back opening. But I did not modify my headlight in any way, so maybe it is just bad design that causes such problems. Not to mention cracks extending radially from the two mounting points on the sides. It looks very bad.
Well... I may follow John's advice, save some time and a lot of grief ... and just replace it with a LED alternative. Then, I could play with this lamp to see how it was made. Out of curiosity: what was the temperature you heated it up to soften the glue?


Has anyone heard about a company called LEDPerf? They seem to be located in France and use LEDs from CREE Inc. (American corporation, I presume?). I wonder if LEDPerf has good products - they are less expensive than JW Speaker, but still not exactly "cheap" (which might be a good sign).
 
Back
Top