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Hydraulic Clutch Adjustment for Stelvio and Others, Better Shifting

L

leafman60

Cruisin' Guzzisti
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Location
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With almost 35,000 miles on my NTX, I have recently noticed some occasional shift lever resistance when shifting. My fix was to adjust the clutch lever to accommodate mechanical wear and provide a deeper stroke of the master cylinder piston to produce a more certain release of the clutch.

Remove the 10MM locknut from the bottom of the lever pivot pin screw and remove the screw.


Remove the lever from the handlebar perch and loosen the grub screw that secures the threaded master cylinder pushrod.


I put an index mark on the pushrod and threaded the pushrod out a couple of turns to tighten up the master cylinder. Do this in careful increments and be sure to tighten the grub screw when finished.

Clean everything up, apply some new lubricant to the lever pivot pin and hole as well as the pivot connection of the pushrod and reinstall the lever. This may also be a good time to flush and bleed the system with new 5.1 fluid.

If you extend the pushrod too much, you will lose necessary minimal slack in the master cylinder piston that allows it to properly return in its stroke.

This adjustment method can be used to vary the clutch engagement point of the clutch lever either way, early or late. You can see the adjusting threads on the pushrod in this picture.
 
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This post saved me! I was replacing the levers on my Breva 1200, and had no idea there was a set screw keeping the pin from coming out! The parts manual shows the barrel, but no pin, and I was totally baffled!! On mine, the pin is TINY and the allen key was the smallest in the set. I just totally missed it, and assumed that the screw end was the theing holding it in place, as a pic of one from an Aprillia showed that design. Thanks again!!!!
 
Didn't even know there was an adjustment for this. Mine is at the very end/out of the lever pull. It could use a little adjustment. What do you recommend, a couple turns?
 
I have modified my clutch like the pic below, it's a free mod. You must chop on the red lines(only 2 mm) and with a glue for metal stick the 2 parts. This mod decreases the effort on yhe 20%
Here some pics guzzistelvio.net/sito/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8116&start=125
Or you can buy this... bolcatoracing.com/prodotto/raccordo-per-leva-frizione/
If is not enough you can buy the clutch actor of the California 1400
 

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nose2wind said:
You trust glue to hold these parts together?
Click to expand...
'Glue' covers a fairly large spectrum N2W!
A good quality Epoxy, applied properly, with correct preparation, will have no problem holding that together, particularly as the load on it is mostly in compression.

Remember, those Aircraft you happily fly off on your vacations in, they're 'Glued' together in certain places too!
 
John Warner said:
'Glue' covers a fairly large spectrum N2W!
A good quality Epoxy, applied properly, with correct preparation, will have no problem holding that together, particularly as the load on it is mostly in compression.

Remember, those Aircraft you happily fly off on your vacations in, they're 'Glued' together in certain places too!
Click to expand...

I assume he means JB Weld or equivalent. Still, that is just epoxy, a glue. I don't trust most things to hold with glue, especially on a Guzzi...
 
nose2wind said:
Didn't even know there was an adjustment for this. Mine is at the very end/out of the lever pull. It could use a little adjustment. What do you recommend, a couple turns?
Click to expand...

I'm trying to visualize if you turn the pushrod in or bring it out to move the clutch engagement point inward on lever travel.
 
Screwed in to move it closer to the grip (ie. shorter stroke of the cylinder)

Think of it as not moving the clutch plate as far out (which is basically what it is doing) by not stroking the cylinder as much. Same thing happens if you adjust the lever itself closer to the grip. The engagement point will move closer to the grip as the plate has less distance to travel back. Be careful as you can adjust it to the point that the plate will drag so make sure it is fully disengaged. Just put it on the center stand and make sure the back wheel stops when the clutch is in and in gear. As long as you can stop it with gentle pressure from your foot you are good.
 
Props to Leafman60 and canuck1069 for the info on this. Going to move mine inward a half turn to bring the engage point inward some, it is right at far (from grips) end of lever travel and I don't like it there as hook-up is sort of like an on/off switch at the moment.
 
Nevermind. Hand guard and [US spec, wired] mirror have to be removed to get good access to this (mirror removal required to get hand guard off.) W/o the NTX handguards it would be much easier to get to.
 
not hard to remove but understand. Try adjusting the lever closer to the grip using the adjuster dial. The closer the lever is to the grip the closer the engagement point is to the grip.
 
Seems like it moves out after the bike gets hot but could be my imagination, do Guzzi's have an issue with clutch pump up?
 
No...but as the fluid gets hotter it could cause the clutch to disengage further meaning the engagement point will move further out as the plate has farther to travel back. Never really paid much attention to it.
 
Going to attempt it without removing hand guard or mirror. Think if I can get a screwdriver in well enough to counter bringing the nut loose below I can get it done but the hand guard will put an angle of attack onto the screw driver. Don't have an offset.
 
Why don't u just remove the guard. It is one bolt and then the mirror twists off. Since u have the stock mirrors just need to unplug them. Should be able to get to the connector behind the side fairings without removing them.

You may cause damage and will probably take u longer short cutting it. The lever should be removed from the bike to do it properly. Only on screw for the lever but pretty sure it will be impossible with the guard on.

Trust me on this one. I have learned on many occasions that shortcuts always have a drawback. I usually always manage to damage or scratch something not related to job I am doing so have learned to be patient and do it right the first time. Less swearing and easier on the wallet in the long run.
 
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