• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.

Hydraulic clutch kit

L

Larry Vance

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
110
Reaction score
7
Location
Connecticut
As a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
 
Larry Vance said:
As a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
Click to expand...
Untitled motorcycles retrofitted one onto their V9 bobber. Might want to contact them about how they did it and if its truly functional
 
I predict I will be ignored on this, as 20+ years in performance modifying Guzzis (so WTH do I know), but in my experience these hydraulic kits are not great. Most currently on the market are made for light action clutch/single cylinder bikes. I went through two purpose made versions on my 1100, and wouldn’t do it again.
Sorry, the UM builds are non-ridden art projects.
 
It is a b..ch to do a afterthought hydraulic clutch set-up... master and slave cylinder diameter/volume & length of levers, travel .... and 💯% Solid mounting points..! Even if using hydraulic throw out bearing doesn’t make it better 😖
I learned my lesson... agree with Todd
It’s opening a can of worms...
Proper routing of the cable (maybe replacing them occasionally because the nylon – Teflon shield might be worn through ) and lubrication maintenance is key...
And a little strength workout👌

Alternative would be a V100
Equipped with Quickshift…
That would cut down dramatically on the use of the clutch lever

My Dnepr had a mechanical connection between the shifter and the clutch arm.. was a cool feature...
 
lemans850i said:
Equipped with Quickshift…
That would cut down dramatically on the use of the clutch lever
Click to expand...
Except it doesn’t work (and is downright dangerous) I keep hearing. I’m test riding one in the hills here soon.
 
When I listen to the sound when people use quick shift.. it just hurts me... banging gears... I never did this to any of my cars or bikes!

Looking forward hearing about your experience! 👍
 
lemans850i said:
It is a b..ch to do a afterthought hydraulic clutch set-up... master and slave cylinder diameter/volume & length of levers, travel .... and 💯% Solid mounting points..! Even if using hydraulic throw out bearing doesn’t make it better 😖
I learned my lesson... agree with Todd
It’s opening a can of worms...
Proper routing of the cable (maybe replacing them occasionally because the nylon – Teflon shield might be worn through ) and lubrication maintenance is key...
And a little strength workout👌

Alternative would be a V100
Equipped with Quickshift…
That would cut down dramatically on the use of the clutch lever

My Dnepr had a mechanical connection between the shifter and the clutch arm.. was a cool feature...
Click to expand...
What about the magura hydraulic conversion kits they offer for several models? Seems like a different take without overcomplicating retrofits.
 
I remember seeing years ago some device that you fitted between the lever and cable, had a cam of some sort that reduces the amount of effort. I think the MG has a fairly light pull compared to similar bikes with hydraulic units.
 
Larry Vance said:
As a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
Click to expand...
Here is the equation you are working with:

Force (lever) x Distance (lever) = force (clutch) x distance (clutch)

or
F x D = f x d
Solve for Force at the lever

F(lever) = [f x d]/D(lever)

Check out your clutch lever. With your hand issue, could you go with a longer stroke (D)? If you can, then improvements may be possible. Say you could live with 1.2 times the present stroke. Then, F(lever) would be F/1.2, or .833.

Your Force at the lever would be 83.3% of what it presently is, but at a longer Distance (20% longer).

This change could be accomplished by modifying the mechanical mechanism at the clutch, or with a hydraulic mod. All this as a way to say that unless there is something wrong with the cable (kinked, pinched, corroded….) hydraulics offer no advantage.

Hope this helps,
FMerlino
 
The one thing I did not see in the equation is a finicky Moto Guzzi clutch... yes, the rest is just math
 
GTM® said:
I predict I will be ignored on this, as 20+ years in performance modifying Guzzis (so WTH do I know), but in my experience these hydraulic kits are not great. Most currently on the market are made for light action clutch/single cylinder bikes. I went through two purpose made versions on my 1100, and wouldn’t do it again.
Sorry, the UM builds are non-ridden art projects.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response. Just saved me money and headaches.
 
FMerlino said:
Here is the equation you are working with:

Force (lever) x Distance (lever) = force (clutch) x distance (clutch)

or
F x D = f x d
Solve for Force at the lever

F(lever) = [f x d]/D(lever)

Check out your clutch lever. With your hand issue, could you go with a longer stroke (D)? If you can, then improvements may be possible. Say you could live with 1.2 times the present stroke. Then, F(lever) would be F/1.2, or .833.

Your Force at the lever would be 83.3% of what it presently is, but at a longer Distance (20% longer).

This change could be accomplished by modifying the mechanical mechanism at the clutch, or with a hydraulic mod. All this as a way to say that unless there is something wrong with the cable (kinked, pinched, corroded….) hydraulics offer no advantage.

Hope this helps,
FMerlino
Click to expand...
thanks
 
Louisv97 said:
Look up Magura hymec clutch system. I'm not allowed to post links to competitors. They got different sized slaves with lines of varying sizes as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

I'm a dealer for Magura, including the slave and full kit for anyone willing to try one. I don't recommend it, again based on the clutch style. If so inclined, email us direct for pricing; Sales @GTMotoCycles.com
 
Larry Vance said:
thanks
Click to expand...
On a correctly designed clutch lever and cable system, all of the lever force is used releasing the clutch. However, I have seen systems where the clutch releases relatively early in the clutch lever stroke, and the additional movement and force from the clutch hand is spent fighting the return spring.
Try to figure out how far the lever actually needs to be pulled. You may find that the distance (D in my earlier post) is less than you think.

Good luck,
FMerlino
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top