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My V65 resto project

I thought you might like to know what has been done to the bike since you sold it to me. (what else does an old man do in the winter?) I've refurbished all the brake calipers and powder-coated the wheels; they look pretty good. In addition, I've been sanding the rusty spots on the frame and the swinging arm with the view to touching them up with Hammerite rather than a full restoration. It'll be more of a good-looking user rather than a garage queen, as long as you don't look too closely. The next thing I want to do is renovate the front forks, but I've failed to remove them. Do you have any tips on how to do that?
Ride safe,
Dave.
Powder coating wheels (3).webp
 
I just vapour blasted V65 Florida wheels (they were painted & corroded) & left them just wiped with AC50F. For forks you could probably polish the lower legs in situ (wet & dry at finer and finer levels down to 4000 grit); if the stanctions are good, the lowers can be removed without dropping the stanctions (as long as you release the damper assemblies at the top); else you need to undo both yolk bolts (can gently pry with chisel) & hammer/pull them out ....I hammered very hard with a socket & then dressed the bashed up tops later. Even then I had to wet & dry sand the inside of the yolk grips 'somewhat' to get the new stantions back in.

IMG_3915r.webpvapoured wheels.webpIMG_3685r.webppolished forks.webp
 
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I managed to remove the forks after leaving the yokes slathered in penetrating oil for several days. I reversed the pinch bolt on the top yoke and inserted a flat chisel, but that method didn't work for the lower yoke, where I carefully tapped in a small chisel, removed the valves at the top, used the shaft of an old wooden hammer as a punch, and hit with a bigger hammer. Once they started to move, they came out quite easily. The bottom halves look quite different from yours. I plan to polish the short top part and paint the rest. My next plan is to renew the oil and seal. Any tips would be welcome. I couldn't load your video, but your wheels look good. Mine are now clad in nice new rubber.

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It's all per manual.....just drain (& measure how much comes out in case you don't disassemble the damper units) the drain bolt & then undo the 'underneath big bolt' & withdraw the fork lower....seal is a circlip then screwdriver/suitable puller. Just drift new seal in & replace circlip (it's not pressurised, just holds the ATF in the fork). Carefully refit fork leg making sure the spring end cap groove aligns with lower cap thing in lower leg (some are plastic, some metal) refit lower 'underneath bolt'...refill from top with same amount you took out (or refill with recommended if you stripped it all down). Assuming you have manual, it's straightforward & only thing I remember is that 'forks back tightenend in yolks' is the best way to hold stanctions/fork (incl wheel sometimes) to undo/retorque lower bolt and top bolt.
 
Paul Brice said:
It's all per manual.....just drain (& measure how much comes out in case you don't disassemble the damper units) the drain bolt & then undo the 'underneath big bolt' & withdraw the fork lower....seal is a circlip then screwdriver/suitable puller. Just drift new seal in & replace circlip (it's not pressurised, just holds the ATF in the fork). Carefully refit fork leg making sure the spring end cap groove aligns with lower cap thing in lower leg (some are plastic, some metal) refit lower 'underneath bolt'...refill from top with same amount you took out (or refill with recommended if you stripped it all down). Assuming you have manual, it's straightforward & only thing I remember is that 'forks back tightenend in yolks' is the best way to hold stanctions/fork (incl wheel sometimes) to undo/retorque lower bolt and top bolt.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. I don't have a manual for the V65 only one for the V50, which I assume is similar in many respects, but you know what they say about assumptions. 🤔 For example, are the forks the same size? Anyway, things are progressing slowly with the hope that the bike will be ridable in the spring.
 
Looking forward to seeing the end results. Hope someday to visit Snydale, Yorkshire where my great grand mother was born. Beautiful country it is.
 
The Mk3 manual I have also covers the V65/V65SP/V50C/V50. The V50 Mk3 has 32mm wide fork sliders; the V65 & V50C have 35mm sliders (my V65 Florida has 38mm sliders).....but despite all the bits are slightly wider, I think they are the same set up.
 
Just remember the oil inside is supposed just to lubricate the inners, as damping is done by the sealed unit at the end of the spring. So, similar amount of oil as in V50 will definitely do, no need to be extremely precise.
 
I have also recently acquired a V65 as a project. I was fortunate it came with Ikon shocks and a Silent Hektik ignition. It also came with a drive box that was as much silicone as anything else and the original 1983 brake fluid. I'll follow your path with interest and probably post some pics of my own.
 
Things are moving on. The forks, grab rail, battery holder, numberplate holder, and headlight surround have all been painted and are ready to be re-fitted but, before that, I need to titivate the frame, swing arm, and engine casing plus clean the carbs and change the oils and filters. I'm sure that there will be other things that crop up in the process but progress is being made. Roll on spring. 🏍️

V65 Fork painted (1).webp

V65 Fork painted (2).webp
 
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