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No start with an ECU error on the dash

grmaster1

grmaster1

Just got it firing!
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The dreaded “no start” happened today


For some reason, I’ve been watching the battery voltage for the past three days, and it went down from 14.2v (with high beams and fogs on) to 13.8-9v. That’s the only thing that was off...


Tried to start it, after riding for 30 miles in 30C weather and parking for 5 minutes, heard a cricket-like noise and perceptible buzz, the dash flickered, and nothing.


Once again, the same, with “service” message error and an icon never seen before: “ECU error” with a picture of a plug


One more time, clutch in, side stand up, and it started fine.

Is it that famous “startus interruptus” or?

Any ideas, fellow Stelvio riders?
 
Check for corrosion on the battery connecting surfaces. It may look OK, but take the connections off, clean with a mild abrasive to ensure good contact. I've seen this before and that is the fix. If that doesn't do the trick, remove the connectors from the ECU and clean with contact cleaner. This is the one I use https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRC-Contact-Cleaner/999964587
 
In addition to what John has suggested, I would remove your battery and take it to your local auto parts store. They will have a load-test meter and can check the condition of your battery for free. Your surface voltage may be 13.?+ but when you put a load on it, you may have dead cell(s).

Also, I caution you about repeatedly cranking the bike over with electrical voltage issues. From first hand experience and also helping several others, the stock relays are not very tolerant of low voltage conditions and they will arc out and fuse the contacts. This reveals itself with headlights that no longer come on when running and other such anomalies.
 
Last edited:
scottmastrocinque said:
In addition to what John has suggested, I would remove your battery and take it to your local auto parts store. They will have a load-test meter and can check the condition of your battery for free. Your surface voltage may be 13.?+ but when you put a load on it, you may have dead cell(s).

Also, I caution you about repeatedly cranking the bike over with electrical voltage issues. From first hand experience and also helping several others, the stock relays are not very tolerant of low voltage conditions and they will arc out and fuse the contacts. This reveals itself with headlights that no longer come on when running and other such anomalies.
Click to expand...

Nice suggestion, I will check it out.

I’ve also heard that some people put in second “ground” from the battery and run direct wiring from the battery to the starter “to combat issues” that may arise...

Is that really necessary?
 
I had a similar, intermittent problem with my 2014. I checked this forum and double checked everything listed. I also added the extra ground.
Finally after a road side breakdown because the battery drained itself I found a fuse that had a broken post. It was the main line (40 amp) fuse under the seat. The fuse looked normal until I pulled it. About half of the fuse post was burned and created an intermittent open circuit. I know it's an odd failure but worth a quick check.
 
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