zoom zoom
Tuned and Synch'ed
Some have been following this. I thought it might be helpful to consolidate the links to each installment.
Scroll down to the pics I added. Installment 1
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5941
Installment 2 is the mounting of the cruise servo and the routing and connection of the cable that connects to the throttle.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5942
Installment three, vacuum canister.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5943
Installment 4, electrical.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5944
Finally, I ran into a wall getting the brake disengage feature working properly without causing trouble with the lights. Wayne Orwig was very helpful with this. Cutting the brake light wire and placing a diode in line between the tail light and back forward, prevented the low voltage from back feeding. (FYI, a diode is an electrical "one way valve". It is directional.) What I ended up doing was to solder a piece of wire on so that I could get both ends out into the compartment by the servo. Using a connecting block, I put the diode in with the brake feed, brake lead to tail lights, and the control lead from the servo. It was the yellow wire with a green tracer. However, I located it on one end of the plug, not the middle as the diagram shows. Verify this wire with a volt/ohm meter with the tail light assembly DISCONNECTED. You should see 12 volts when you grab the brake lever. DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT FOR ANY TESTING. I am told it could be detremental to the computer. Use a meter. The relay I used is a common GM relay available at any parts store. I didn't find out its regular application, but I still have te box and will investigate. The magnetic coil of the relay is what connects to the brake light wire. The other side of the relay will use the normally closed connection to route the servo control lead to ground. When the coil is energized, the ground connection is broken and the cruise releases.
I may add some notes as I finish up. If I do, I'll add an edit below my signature so that it can be easily found. This is a nice installation. All you see is the switch that controls the unit. Everything else is concealed. It works well, holding the speed within 2 mph up and down hills. The GM relay was 6 or 8 bucks, the diode, in packs of two run .99 cents.
Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
Edit 1: All the power leads of the cruise servo were tied together and put on a switched power feed. Fuse A in the block was used. This is the fuse block located by the tool compartment. I determined which side is the feed into the factory fuse and tapped into the wire before the fuse. (The unit has its own fuse) I selected this feed wire because it powers a variety of accessories, which would probably not all be in use at any one time.
Edit 2: Diode: 1N4001. comes in packs of two at Radio Shack. One needed. 99 cents.
Edit 3: Common GM relay. Borg Warner, but number should be all you would need. R3177. 10 bucks at Advanced Auto Parts.
Edit 4: I tapped into the left coil. It is the Green/ Orange wire. I was able to unbolt the coil and then unplug the plug. I brought the plug up top as best I could where I tapped into said wire. After I had the wire attached, I put it back down where it came from, plugged it back into the coil, and reattached the coil to its mount.
Edit 5: When you remove the rear cover from the cruise servo, you will find an LED, a plastic jumper, and 7 dip switches. The jumper gets removed. The dip switch settings are: 1, ON; 2 thru 6, OFF; 7, ON. The LED is used for some static testing prior to road testing.
Scroll down to the pics I added. Installment 1
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5941
Installment 2 is the mounting of the cruise servo and the routing and connection of the cable that connects to the throttle.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5942
Installment three, vacuum canister.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5943
Installment 4, electrical.
https://www.guzzitech.com/index.php?op ... 44&id=5944
Finally, I ran into a wall getting the brake disengage feature working properly without causing trouble with the lights. Wayne Orwig was very helpful with this. Cutting the brake light wire and placing a diode in line between the tail light and back forward, prevented the low voltage from back feeding. (FYI, a diode is an electrical "one way valve". It is directional.) What I ended up doing was to solder a piece of wire on so that I could get both ends out into the compartment by the servo. Using a connecting block, I put the diode in with the brake feed, brake lead to tail lights, and the control lead from the servo. It was the yellow wire with a green tracer. However, I located it on one end of the plug, not the middle as the diagram shows. Verify this wire with a volt/ohm meter with the tail light assembly DISCONNECTED. You should see 12 volts when you grab the brake lever. DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT FOR ANY TESTING. I am told it could be detremental to the computer. Use a meter. The relay I used is a common GM relay available at any parts store. I didn't find out its regular application, but I still have te box and will investigate. The magnetic coil of the relay is what connects to the brake light wire. The other side of the relay will use the normally closed connection to route the servo control lead to ground. When the coil is energized, the ground connection is broken and the cruise releases.
I may add some notes as I finish up. If I do, I'll add an edit below my signature so that it can be easily found. This is a nice installation. All you see is the switch that controls the unit. Everything else is concealed. It works well, holding the speed within 2 mph up and down hills. The GM relay was 6 or 8 bucks, the diode, in packs of two run .99 cents.
Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
Edit 1: All the power leads of the cruise servo were tied together and put on a switched power feed. Fuse A in the block was used. This is the fuse block located by the tool compartment. I determined which side is the feed into the factory fuse and tapped into the wire before the fuse. (The unit has its own fuse) I selected this feed wire because it powers a variety of accessories, which would probably not all be in use at any one time.
Edit 2: Diode: 1N4001. comes in packs of two at Radio Shack. One needed. 99 cents.
Edit 3: Common GM relay. Borg Warner, but number should be all you would need. R3177. 10 bucks at Advanced Auto Parts.
Edit 4: I tapped into the left coil. It is the Green/ Orange wire. I was able to unbolt the coil and then unplug the plug. I brought the plug up top as best I could where I tapped into said wire. After I had the wire attached, I put it back down where it came from, plugged it back into the coil, and reattached the coil to its mount.
Edit 5: When you remove the rear cover from the cruise servo, you will find an LED, a plastic jumper, and 7 dip switches. The jumper gets removed. The dip switch settings are: 1, ON; 2 thru 6, OFF; 7, ON. The LED is used for some static testing prior to road testing.
