• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge Service Light

phordman

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
For the first time I had the service light and the big word 'service' where the odometer belongs. Shut if off and back on and everything okay.

I have the following codes:

DSB 2; key not present or transponder not recognized. Don't give 2 hoots as I've never programmed the key.

DSB 5; fuel sensor failure. I know there have been a rash of these and have read Todd's tech sheet on this.

DSB 7; oil sensor failure. The manual says;
There is an oil pressure sensor failure when it is detected as not conducting [open] with the engine off and the key set to on. This problem is signaled by the lighting of the “service’ warning light, which should also remain lit when the engine is on.

This is the case with my bike. I've also been seeing on the board that there have been some oil pressure sending units changed. If my gas level goes south for a while, not a problem, but given that there have been a few broken oil pumps and I have 23,500 miles on the bike I think it's time to use the warranty as I have 2 months left. Unless anybody has a better idea I'm parking it until it's fixed.
 
My Norge has been doing the service light thing for some time now. It will come on, turn the key off, turn it back on,the service light goes out. Will come back on periodically, then won't come back on for a while. Have heard the oil sensor is not very good as far as quality goes. Probably started happening with about 5000 miles on it and now have 16000 on it so Not to worried about it.
 
Hello;

I noticed that if you "flick" the key on and push the starter TOO early (before the clocks sweeps) you get a weird state in the ECU. It tends to clear the next time you start. .... SO, now i wait until the light show is over and then I push the starter.

It may be that the premature start sequence interrupts the ECU count down and it doesn't get "ok's" from the sensors so it signals a problem.
 
That comment makes some sense as it seems illogical to have 3 unrelated faults at the same time. I make sure the light show is over before I mash the start button but there are times when the sequence is pretty close. Think I'll keep an eye on it and press on. Having only 2.5 months left on warranty I start to knee-jerk on stuff like this.
 
Tim,

Agree with Sam, et al, that this may be a "light problem" or sensors, and not a pump problem, but, I was careful not to jump the lightshow, and my oil-pressure light flickered often and the service light, too, now and then. On the "you have oil, so it's just the light, go ride it," theory, I did. Then, as you well recall, my oil pump went out at about 22K miles, and I was lucky that happened in my driveway, not on the road.

Somewhere recently here there is a post of an "easy" check on the oil pump, as opposed to a complete teardown. Hope that is as simple as alleged. Also think that MG is aware of this problem, so I would register a concern with a dealer and maybe MG USA, too, sooner than later.

Bill
 
Yes, MG are aware, but they don't see any need for a recall at this point as there have been too few documented cases. They will however change any defect pump under warranty, and at least here in France I'm pretty sure they would *have* to do that even if mine turns out broken after my warranty expires (esp. since it's been published they are aware of the issue). Still, I'm considering seriously to have my pump checked at my last regular service during warranty, as I have good hope that the checking labour would be covered at least partly under a warranty replacement *should* the pump be faulty.

From what I understand, it's the newer, trochoidal design pump that can be affected.

> it seems illogical to have 3 unrelated faults at the same time
Tim: illogical, no - unlikely, yes. But then again, those are stored errors, and as far as I know, you don't get a date stamp on them, so they're likely seperate events.
As to the key error: the message suggests it has to do with the key, not the PIN code for I-don't-remember-what-it's-supposed-to-protect. Somebody programmed at least 2 keys on your bike ;)
 
Today I rode 250 miles with about 10 starts, no problems. My normal procedure is to turn the key on, throw a leg, and then start. During this time the dash has settled down. The day I got the faults my wife was with me; it must have taken her 10 minutes to get her coat, find her sun glasses, put on the brain bucket, and get on board. During this time I was on the bike waiting patiently!! After she mounted I turned on the key and started. All out of order. I'm thinking I mashed the red button too soon. After 40 years as a pilot I'm very sensitive to flashing lights, probably overreacted. As Bill stated my understanding is that anything over 2000 RPM and an oil light is low pressure, at start up a sensor fault. My bike had 4 miles on it when I bought it so I doubt that another key had been programmed. My gas gauge works the same since the day I took delivery so I doubt there is a fuel sensing problem. I have talked with my dealer and the situation is documented.
 
phordman..........Mine was showing some DB7 types of faults last year until Mike & Todd H recommended cleaning the battery terminals which, in my case, cleared up everything. These things seem to be very sensitive to any hint of corrosion at the terminals.
On a sidebar, I'll be PMing you the info for the oil line splitter (Banjo fitting w spigot) you requested which was machined by Lee Bruns. I should be receiving it within the next week............BB
 
Re: the theory that the flickering oil light could have anything to do with a fragmented oil pump: when exactly does the flickering occur? If it happens when turning the key but before starting the engine, I don't really see how it could signal a problem with the pump. If it happens when starting the engine, one could imagine that it's an effect of having a broken rotor in the pump (I'd still suppose though that it should be a flicker of a substantial duration).
 
I put a 25 cent slot next to my dashboard. I insert the quarter, turn the key, watch the dash do its thing, all of a sudden quarters start to pour out the exhaust, just like a slot machine. I love this bike.
 
Erm, Noel, I already have your dipstick tool, are you selling this slot machine thingy too? ;)
 
Back
Top