Norge Tupperwareand Tabs, helpful info:

[zoom zoom]

During my latest work on the Norge, I have discovered some broken tabs. First the good news:

Below are 2 pics of a tab that ties the chin spoiler to the lower left side. I found that broken at my 1000 mile service. I repaired it with JB Weld, and it has been good since. I still think my disassembly proceedure was the culprit. I have since revised that. I am pushing 7800 miles now.

Now on to new discoveries. I have taken steps to repair and try to prevent further damage. We'll see how it goes.

First, is the screen that is in the front of the chin spoiler. The metal mesh is held in in a rather cheesy fashion. I discovered the two top tabs had broken. The rest were in tact, but I figured I would beef them up anyway. The broken tabs are probably a result of something hitting the screen, I don't know. Again, JB Weld is my friend. Let it begin to harden or you'll be moving it around for some time. Ask me how I know. :-[ I'm still rotating the piece to keep the JB where I want, and don't want. (I really hope it hardens up before bed time! :
EDIT: You may want to put a bit more hardner in the JB. I need to have this thing on a rotissery right now.

This next pic shows a tab that locks into the side panels up near the head. One side was broken off but hanging inside the other panel. I JB'd it and reinforced it the next day. I also reinforced the other tab in hopes to prevent it from breaking.

These last two show a rubber seal that mates up to the main side panel when assembled. It uses a bunch of cheesy tabs to retain it in place. I found several broken on one side allowing the rubber strip to move around. You can't see this when assembled. I took some silicone and spread it along the length to hold it in place.

Zoom Zoom,
John Henry

 

[Bill Hagan]

Anyone found anything better than JB Weld to repair broken tabs on Norge bodywork?

I have used as ZZ describes some time ago in this helpful post. My uses of been of the "PM and "build up" variety, not reattaching tabs. Moreover -- no doubt because I did not properly prepare the surface -- many of those plugs have fallen out. I have replaced and they work for the most part.

Now, however, I found that one of the tabs on the sump lower has completely separated from the lower.

Unless hooted off the forum for suggesting this, I am inclined to find some sort of plastic adhesive to hold the tab in place so that, after it dries, I can do a final fix with fiberglass repair materials.

Better other ideas out there? Cautions over my plan?

Thanks.

Bill

 

[sbaker]

Hello;

I actually used Shoe Goo... to repair the tabs.. It is stays more flexible than JB Weld, but is firm enough to give the original tab additional strength

Shoe Goo is used to repair sneaker soles, not quite sure what it is exactly, but it glops up well and keeps some elasticity to absorb vibrations and stress...

I thought of JB Weld but it is so stiff that I am note sure it won't damage the mating piece...

 

[Bill Hagan]

Hello;

I actually used Shoe Goo... to repair the tabs.. It is stays more flexible than JB Weld, but is firm enough to give the original tab additional strength

Shoe Goo is used to repair sneaker soles, not quite sure what it is exactly, but it glops up well and keeps some elasticity to absorb vibrations and stress...

I thought of JB Weld but it is so stiff that I am note sure it won't damage the mating piece...

That's very interesting. Appreciate that suggestion.

I, too, have used SG for m/c purposes, e.g., to attach Fenda Extenda to Griso's front fender so as to avoid drilling fasteners into the fender. Hadn't thought about it for this application. I might even use the "plastic glue" as I said, along with fiberglass cloth ... but with SG rather than resin.

Thanks!

Bill

 

[afulldeck]

Whatever you do, don't use plastifix. I spent days last year repairing my Norge fairing tabs and cracks, but by the end of the season most of the tabs had broken again. In some cases, they completely disintegrated. So now I'm going back to building them out of JB weld. Not the best answer, but the only one I have at this time. I'm also going to add additional support to the lights through the metal support frame. Hopefully, keeping the lights supported with take the strain off the tabs.

 

[Brian UK]

I use a product available from most model shops here in the UK called Plastic Weld. Works wonders with the ABS fairing. Just put the two parts back together as they should line up, then a drop of Plastic Weld on the crack, hold for a minute or so and you have a joint stronger than the original. I have also added a small piece of ABS behind some of the tabs for reinforcing, again using Plastic Weld.
The repair is almost invisible from the outside. Works just as well on any cracks in the fairing.

 

[seb]

I am using a product called Plastic Welder made by Devcon. The part number is S-220/22045. This is a two part epoxy. It comes packaged as a 'use what you need' in a mixing tube and this stuff is indestructible. A tube of this stuff was about $US6.00 and it was enough to make repairs to all of my broken parts for quite a number of months. The web site is listed as www.itwconsumer.com.

After you mix and apply it, it sets up very quickly and gets quite warm. Recommendations are full strength in 24 hours however I have used it on the road and was ready to go in 30 minutes.