• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

P0336 error illuminates EFI warning light V9-R - SOLVED

tris

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
273
Location
Lincolnshire UK
So, my 17 plate Roamer illuminated it's EFI warning light and the code was P0336 - Crank sensor error
I replaced the sensor with a new one from MG and it's thrown the same error.

In both cases the bike started from cold fine and only gave the ⚠️ after riding until fully hot and then stopping for food and restarting.
Also with the light lit, no discernable problem with the running of the bike could be detected.

It's possible the new sensor is a duff, but given that's it's a MG supplied Bosch part I'd hazard that's not likely.

So, where does the collective suggest I go to bottom this issue out?

I need it gone, as I'm planning on getting a V85, and I'm not going to be able to sell the V9 with the Engine Management light lit!!

Many thanks in advance

Tris
 
Last edited:
PO335 is a break in signal, 336 is other like air gap.
The only place the number is given for small blocks is in V7 2 ABS service manual copied----------------

Place the sensor plus the corresponding spacers; the air gap should be between 0.7 and 0.9 mm.
 
Thanks Steve

The curious thing is that the parts fiche for the V9 (or V7) as far as I can see doesn't show any spacers as an option

Started bike this morning when fully cold - no error

I've started to look at the bike and noticed that the earth connection to the battery was not "quite" as tight as I expected.
Could this be a factor when the bike is hot?
 
The first thing to check with any electrical error is all grounds. The ground on the engine should be pulled off and scrubbed clean every year. Then I use Vasoline on it. Same for the battery connections. Then you can go elsewhere.
 
I DECLARE THE PROBLEM SOLVED

I went for a longer ride today, got the bike screaming hot in town traffic , blasted down the dual carriageway and in 3 restarts, no warning lights.

I can't with my hand on my heart say if the solution was
A) disconnecting and reconnecting the battery
B) cleaning and tightening the battery & earth terminals
However since they are interconnected, I suspect it doesn't matter

Thanks for all the input
 
Glad you got it done, YES, bad connections can follow and show up other places. That's what wire does.
It is weird the ECU knew the signal was working or it would be 335 but it was 336 means anomaly with signal & isn't correct somehow like gap. It picked up minor change in voltage I guess.
 
My suspicion is that the ECU was getting spiked by a dodgy connection (exagerated by a hot engine) and it flagged the closest error it could find 😃

Still, if I get something similar in the future I'm checking and cleaning battery and earth terminations before handing over sixty quid for a sensor I didn't need 👍
 
Back
Top