Rear Wheel Removal (what the manual doesn't tell you...)

[roadventure]

Recently I ordered a set of AVON replacement tires for my California. The OEM Dunlop 251 was worn down to the wear bars at 5100 miles. That tire seems to be too soft for a touring type bike. I have used the AVON A71/A72 tires on other bikes and have had good luck with them. Hopefully they will perform just as well on the California.

I needed to remove the rear wheel. I look in the shop manual and it seems to be pretty simple. (you will need a 32mm socket and a 14mm hex key...)

Remove saddlebags and mufflers.

Break the axle nut loose on the axle and removed it per the instructions. DON'T REMOVE THE AXLE YET!

Raise the California on a suitable lift or jack.

You will need to remove the left side rear shock absorber so that you will have clearance to move the rear brake caliper out of the way.

Remove the left rear shock absorber (screw top and bottom) wrap it in a rag and temporarily position outside of the swing arm taking care to not bend the hose to the remote reservoir. (for the Touring model, the shock can be completely removed and placed on the workbench)

NOW, slide the axle out to the right side far enough so that is slides out of the caliper housing (about 2 1/2 inches)

With the axle moved out of the caliper boss, slide the caliper up far enough that the pads clear the rotor. Wrap the caliper in a rag and temporarily position it outside of the swing arm taking care to not bend or flex the brake tube, hose too much.

At this point you have about 1" of space between the wheel assembly and the left side swing arm. Slide the axle out to the right a little more, about 2 inches more and remove the left hand spacer located in the wheel hub. After the spacer is removed you should have about 2 to 2 1/2 inches of space between the left swing arm and the wheel hub.

Carefully tap the axle back in place (no spacer, no caliper) through the left hand swing arm. Do not put the axle nut back on at this time. The rear wheel is now fully supported and ready for the next step.

Chances are very good (if this it the first time you have removed the rear wheel) that the male drive splines on the wheel and the female drive splines in the drive hub are rusted together. This due to the inability of MG assembly people to apply a light coating of grease to the splines when the bike is first assembled.

With the wheel fully supported as previously described by the axle, you will need to carefully "persuade" the splines on the wheel hub to slide out of the splines in the drive. Be careful to not break anything if you start pounding on things. Eventually the splines will separate and you can now slowly work the axle out of the right side swing arm and drop the wheel assembly down to the ground.

NOTE: When you reassemble everything apply a light coating of Pro Honda Moly60 Paste lubricant to the splines. This will make the rear wheel removal, next time, SO much easier.

Have fun out there!

 

[abbienormal]

You can remove the wheel without removing the shock once you cure the rust frozen spline problem. My Avons were my second set of replacement tires and so far so good.
I split a piece of wood trying to "encourage" my rusted splines off after my initial attempt at removal which resulted in the wheel coming off the dampers and putting some impressive scratches on my rear wheel. Fortunately the saddlebags hide them. I finally got a steel pry bar and beat on it to get it off. That was after a liberal dose of Kroil as I figured rust was the problem. Honda moly 60 allpied and no further problems.
I ran Metzlers for my second set of tires and they lasted about as long as the Dunlops.

 

[sir fred]

By chance, do you have the torque values for putting it back together, roadventure?
I am going to get shop manual at some point.
Much appreciated!

 

[kiwi dave]

I am going to get shop manual at some point.

It is available under the Resources on this forum if you are a contributor.

 

[sir fred]

Found one thanks!

 

[roadventure]

I ran Metzlers for my second set of tires and they lasted about as long as the Dunlops.

That must have been a little depressing......

 

[Loosy gussi]

Wish I had seen this procedure in the tire thread

 

[GFMCO]

These directions were Awesome! Newbie here, and it worked perfect. Lucky i guess as my spline was oiled already.
Thank you for sharing your info, it really helps and is appreciated.

 

[roadventure]

You can remove the wheel without removing the shock once you cure the rust frozen spline problem.

I just went through removing the rear wheel to put a new AVON AV72 on. There is no way I could get the caliper out of the way with enough clearance to remove the wheel without removing the left-hand shock.

The only down side to removing the left-hand shock is the POS fasteners that MG sources. I stripped head on the top screw and barely got the bottom one out without stripping out the head. I threw both screws in the trash and replaced with stainless steel M8x1.25x20 SHCS.

 

[abbienormal]

I just went through removing the rear wheel to put a new AVON AV72 on. There is no way I could get the caliper out of the way with enough clearance to remove the wheel without removing the left-hand shock.

The only down side to removing the left-hand shock is the POS fasteners that MG sources. I stripped head on the top screw and barely got the bottom one out without stripping out the head. I threw both screws in the trash and replaced with stainless steel M8x1.25x20 SHCS.

I somehow succeeded in leaving my shock on for the second tire change. I don't remember specifics.
An FYI. Stainless screws look better longer but are actually softer than regular screws. I use them regularly at work and sometimes on my bikes but they are weaker. Makes no sense but true.
However, if you ever have to drill one out do not try a normal drill bit. The minute they get hot the bit stops cutting. You need a harder than normal bit. Cobalt or Carbide generally works or, if it is where you can get away with it, heat it cherry red then drill through. The last one learned by accident when a guy welded on a 1/4" rod for a pin and I thought he had welded on O1 tool steel as it was impossible to drill a cotter pin hole through. So I heated it back up to take out the hardness and later he laughed and told me it was stainless.

 

[roadventure]

I somehow succeeded in leaving my shock on for the second tire change. I don't remember specifics.
An FYI. Stainless screws look better longer but are actually softer than regular screws. I use them regularly at work and sometimes on my bikes but they are weaker. Makes no sense but true.
However, if you ever have to drill one out do not try a normal drill bit. The minute they get hot the bit stops cutting. You need a harder than normal bit. Cobalt or Carbide generally works or, if it is where you can get away with it, heat it cherry red then drill through. The last one learned by accident when a guy welded on a 1/4" rod for a pin and I thought he had welded on O1 tool steel as it was impossible to drill a cotter pin hole through. So I heated it back up to take out the hardness and later he laughed and told me it was stainless.

FYI, I have been a machine designer going on 30 years. I am far from knowing all I need to know, but I am sure that the 18-8 SS screws I used on the shocks will do the job as well or better than the mystery material screws supplied by MG. In this particular application as long as the allowable torque is not exceeded almost any screw would do the job. There is no shear condition and very little clamping force needed. I know what you are talking about referring to with drill bits. Cobalt bits are usually best for drilling SS (not always, but usually). But, typical steel drill bits work as long as you keep the speed slow.

 

[abbienormal]

Sorry, didn't mean to imply they would not work. Just a lot of people think SS is stronger. Very few uses on a bike they would not be strong enough. That is why I started with just an FYI.

 

[blakbird]

Sorry, didn't mean to imply they would not work. Just a lot of people think SS is stronger. Very few uses on a bike they would not be strong enough. That is why I started with just an FYI.

Hey I learned something. I'm dreading my first rear tire change, well more accurately the labor charges, Currently have about 3.2K miles on my '14 Custom. Will definitely need a new rear tire by 4K. Dealer Showroom bike, sat there for almost 3 years, purchased new in April this year. I dread thinking about how difficult it's going to be, hence how long it's going to take, to separate the rusty splines. Definitely going to take pictures of the wheel before, in case of scarring.

 

[roadventure]

Sorry, didn't mean to imply they would not work. Just a lot of people think SS is stronger. Very few uses on a bike they would not be strong enough. That is why I started with just an FYI.

Yeah, I know. There is ignorance everywhere. Just look at the number of threads on any motorcycle forum about "what oil is best" when the owner's manuals states this very clearly.

 

[roadventure]

Hey I learned something. I'm dreading my first rear tire change, well more accurately the labor charges, Currently have about 3.2K miles on my '14 Custom. Will definitely need a new rear tire by 4K. Dealer Showroom bike, sat there for almost 3 years, purchased new in April this year. I dread thinking about how difficult it's going to be, hence how long it's going to take, to separate the rusty splines. Definitely going to take pictures of the wheel before, in case of scarring.

Since you are going to have your dealer remove the rear wheel from the bike, maybe you should ask if you can watch. You may learn something that we don't know and then could share some newly learned tips.

 

[roadventure]

Have fun out there!

A couple of weeks ago I put on my second AVON Cobra rear tire. The first one ran for 10.500 miles before I chose to replace it. I ran on a lot of long, flat, straight roads out west and developed a large flat area and was very close to all the way through the wear bars in the tread. So, it was time for a new tire.

I wanted to add a "tip" for reassembly after you are ready to put your wheel with your new tire back on, so here it is:

Insert the axle in the rear drive so that the end is flush with the drive spline (no axle actually sticking out).

Lift the wheel up (I used a floor jack) and when the axle hole in the wheel and the axle hole in the rear drive appear to line up, gently tap the axle into the wheel. Go all the way through the wheel.

Continue tapping the axle until it sticks out of the wheel about 1 Inch. DO NOT engage the axle with the hole in the other side of the swing arm.

At this point the wheel is supported by the axle, but the axle isn't engaged in the other side of the swing arm. (Apply Honda Moly Lube 60 to male spline teeth)

Remove whatever you used to support the wheel. AT THIS TIME THE WHEEL IS SUPPORTED BY THE AXLE THROUGH THE REAR DRIVE ONLY. Be careful to not shake or jostle it too much.

Now, slowly side the wheel male spline over towards the rear drive female spline. Because the axle is not supported on both sides you should be able to CAREFULLY move the wheel up and down a very small amount and rotate is slightly just enough to get those spline teeth engaged.

Once you feel the spline engage, simply continue to push the wheel towards the rear drive. (did you remember to apply the lube to the splines???)

Now complete your assembly by pulling the axle back so the end it flush with the wheel hub (brake side). You can one install the spacer and push the axle so that it is now flush with the end of the spacer.

Place the caliper back in alignment with the axle (don't forget to engage the caliper slot with the stop boss on the swing arm).

Push the axle through the caliper and continue through the swing arm hole.

Install nut and tighten to spec.

 

[William H.]

Thank you all for posting on this as it was very helpful
I just changed out my rear tire and rear brake line ( see why in pic ) the step by step instructions were dead on, I was able to change out tire without removing the shock being wheel had been off before.

 

[kiwi dave]

Why did this rubbing occur? Are you running an oversize tyre perchance?

 

[William H.]

Why did this rubbing occur? Are you running an oversize tyre perchance?

No its a stock size tire ( 200/60 )
I just bought the bike and when I got her home I was giving it a once over ( along with dating the tires ) and I found that the rear brake line was not connected to any of the retaining clips along the swing arm and thus rubbing against the tire. I'm thinking this was done by who ever installed the last tire along with also putting the tire on backwards (wrong rotation!).

 

[kiwi dave]

I guess it must have got jammed between the swinging arm and the tire. You're lucky there wasn't a more serious outcome.