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Stepper motor & used bike adventures

oca grassa

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Famiglia
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Howdy howdy Guzzi party people! Thought I’d post about today’s adventures inside a used Norge. This is a long one!

I got started today with the intention of simply doing something with the stepper motor. I wasn’t sure what, but I’d read plenty.

Got the tank off…and that’s where the scope started to creep. Anyone who works on stuff for a living or used to, probably just had a bit of a giggle.

1st thing I noticed was the red plastic elbow had been replaced with a brass elbow. A CRG stainless steel quick disconnect had then been added inline further down stream from the pump.

All had been done using pressure rated fuel line & Öetiker clamps, so not half assed….except that the side of the quick disconnect that has the fuel shut-off was on the throttle body side of that equation. 🙄

To top that off, there was no real rhyme or reason to the lengths of hose used. Ideally one would want the quick disconnect positioned for easy access for tank removal. That wasn’t the case either.

2nd thing I noticed was neither hose for the evap emissions system was connected. The wire clamps were too far from the nipples to have been on for who knows how long.

Removing the airbox to get down to the stepper motor, I made the decision to to plug the line from the complete absence of any kind of oil vapor/collection inside the airbox.

While in that process I noted a few more things. 1st (3rd?) the filter had not been seated correctly and the ridge that forms the seat for filter had cut into the filter rubber.

2nd the hose that goes from the rear of the airbox up to the breather box had been installed the wrong way around. Finally, there were 2 different screws holding the breather box to the airbox. (Anyone else find that annoying?)

Then, as I started to remove the airbox it became apparent that the left side airbox rubber was not completely seated on the throttle body. 😕 Airbox out finally, and the hose to the stepper motor was secured by a zip tie.

Shoved a rubber plug into each end of the hose and secured the stepper motor end with a clamp. Sprayed some ACF-50 into each of the connectors I’d removed already and then did the same for the stepper motor connector.

Beginning reinstall of the airbox I rerouted some of the hoses & electrical that were poorly routed. I’m certain by whomever had been in there before. No way the factory was that messy.

Turned the filter over and seated it correctly inside the ridge. Fit the cover and made sure the filter fit inside that ridge as well. Replaced the mismatched screws for the breather box and flipped the hose to it around so it followed the contours of the airbox.

Right about then I realized I’d need to re-do the fuel lines as the the airbox reinstall kept fouling on the line/quick disconnect fitting. Airbox back out.

Removed the Öetiker clamps and swapped the line from the throttle body with the one on the tank. I didn’t have any pressure rated line handy else I’d have cut the lines to length before applying new Öetiker clamps. I’ll have to go back in there again and sort all of that out to my liking. It works as is for now though.

At least when the quick disconnect is disconnected the tank doesn’t pee fuel all over the ground now. Airbox back in. Evap lines connected. Tank installed.

Started the bike back up once the tank was installed to see what effect plugging the stepper motor hose from the airbox had.

Dash showed 57 degrees when I turned the key to “on”. Engine fired right up but did not go into a high idle sequence. Idle was right around 1200 RPM and did not change. Took a test ride. Engine seems much happier.

After fire popping on deceleration is greatly reduced. Acceleration seems much smoother also. Unsure how well it will start when temps dip back down to the 30s but the engine seems happier.

Will definitely have to get back in under the tank & airbox at some point to tidy up the fuel line arrangement. Also noted oil seepage from somewhere under there.

It’s running down the front of the engine between the alternator belt cover and the left cylinder. Unsure of the source though it seemed centered around some sort of sensor. Have not as yet done any research on what it is exactly.

More when there’s something further to write about.
 
Had a look through the parts book. Based on what is pictured my best guess is the leak is at the oil temp sender.

Illustration isn’t the best but that appears to be the only sensor located in that general area.

Possibly a deteriorated o-ring is causal but will have to wait until next opportunity to get back under the tank to attempt removal.
 
Had a look through the parts book. Based on what is pictured my best guess is the leak is at the oil temp sender.

Illustration isn’t the best but that appears to be the only sensor located in that general area.

Possibly a deteriorated o-ring is causal but will have to wait until next opportunity to get back under the tank to attempt removal.
That is an oil pressure sensor. Also in that area is the phase sensor. Both are known to cause seepage. A search will give you posts on correcting the issue once isolated.
 
Hmmm sounds a lot like the issues I had two seasons ago with a 2015 Norge I purchased. Air filter not seated properly so that grit infiltrated into the airbox. Left snorkel not seated on the airbox properly, oil drain at the rear of airbox broken off and not repaired correctly so that it leaked, exacerbated by the oil sump filled to the top. The evap canister had been removed but not the the plumbing. External airbox hose clamps replaced with subpar clamps and tightened so much that the airbox nipple underneath had cracked. Finally while the oil sensor had been replaced, the huge mess of oil and dirt left behind from the leak had not been cleaned up.

While I have read reports of removing the stepper motor from the fuel delivery circuit I personally found that cleaning the stepper motor and its plumbing, throttle bodies and intakes, throttle linkages, lubing the throttle cable, taking up any slack in the cables, balancing the throttle air intakes and running a single hose from one throttle to the other in place of the complicated evap plumping, ( a suggestion from Todd). made a huge difference, in performance, start up and idle smoothness, with only minimal popping on de-acceleration.

A few pics of what I had found in mine.

PS you might want it investigate the swing arm and shock linkage re-grease issues on the Norge. While mine at 50,000 km were not at bad as some of the Stelvios I've seen the definitely required attention. Lots of coverage on the topic included on this site.
 

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A friend of mine used a feeler gauge between the sacred screw and TB linkage for his high idle till warmed up. Others use a fuel tap on airbox hose to let some air in for warm up. Have fun playing on your bike.
 
A friend of mine used a feeler gauge between the sacred screw and TB linkage for his high idle till warmed up. Others use a fuel tap on airbox hose to let some air in for warm up. Have fun playing on your bike.
An interesting idea but if the stepper motor is in good operation and the throttles are synced and tuned I don’t think there would be need for those manual interventions.
 
An interesting idea but if the stepper motor is in good operation and the throttles are synced and tuned I don’t think there would be need for those manual interventions.
Actually there is. I have a fuel tap to manually turn mine on and off. I have a lot of mods including PC-5 and AT200, open airbox lid, exhaust etc. The stepper does not just work on cold start up. It activates on decel to reduce emmisions. On my bike I was still getting some decel pop. By turning off my stepper after warm up, all decel pop is eliminated.
 
Interesting. Where did you install the shut off, between the air box and the stepper?
I don’t have a lot of mods on mine but I do have a mistral exhaust, Y pipe instead of catalyst and no evap canister and plumbing. The stepper bypass might be something to try.
 
Basically, yes. I blocked the hole in the air box. The fuel tap is on the hose and inhales unfiltered air for warm up. I'm not concerned that it could ingest the odd blackfly etc. during the brief time it is open. (lots of blackflies here in the spring)
 
It just peaks out of the tupperware in front of my right toes. If I had more pipe at the time, I could have run it up by the gauges or some place convenient.

P.S. Sorry for the highjack of the original post.
No problemo. I’m alway interested in the stepper motor. Never heard of one till I bought this N8V. Now I find it an interesting solution to enrichment of the fuel flow on a cold engine. I hadn’t realized it also engaged on deceleration.
 
The stepper motor is an electrical motor driving a small plunger in and out of a tapered orifice in response to engine temp. It has no way of responding to rapid throttle movement (EXUP and Buell valves are cable operated). When your bike is fully warmed up, the plunger is in the "minimum air" position. It still lets in air, which is why, on these models, the idle air bypass screws are (mostly) closed.
This is why, when you introduce a shut-off valve in the air supply, you may reduce "popping" on closed throttle decel., as you have eliminated that small amount of idle air when fully warmed up.
This will likely reduce your idle speed by about 150-200 rpm warm. Do NOT compensate for that with the throttle stop screw! (Sacred...)
As an aside, I have two stepper motors in operation, both on 2006 models, both 115K km of flawless service after cleaning and inspection somewhere along the way.
 
No worries all….good information to share. I did not physically remove my stepper, just plugged the line between it and the airbox. This was intentional so that if I found a more elegant solution I could simply pop the plugs back out if required.

As I stated previously, I did do a tremendous amount of reading on the stepper motor issue and the various solutions implemented to solve the decel popping/high idle after warm up issues.

Given how clean the inside of my airbox was, I reasoned that my stepper was not malfunctioning due to oil intrusion gunking it up. Thus I decided to simply plug the line for now.

My main worry being difficult cold starting when our temps dip into the 30s….or worse; into the high 20s. Happens from time to time in winter here. Not often and not for long but it does happen.

I’ll research the oil pressure sender et al before I ask any stupid questions on the fix. More on another day. Got meal prep to take care of and some “honey do” chores before I get back to solving phone mounting on the Norge today.
 
It just peaks out of the tupperware in front of my right toes. If I had more pipe at the time, I could have run it up by the gauges or some place convenient.

P.S. Sorry for the highjack of the original post.
Thanks for that tid bit of info. When I resolve to re-do the fuel lines I’ll have another go at the stepper with a line plug for the airbox and a length of hose up to dash area for a shut off valve. Maybe add a breather filter on the end of it for kicks. A tiny little guy like this:
Crankcase Breather Filter.jpeg.webp
They’re available at almost any auto parts store for a few bucks.
 
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