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Stripped bolt hole threads - any ideas?

S

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Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 4, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Portland, OR
Hi. The 2nd issue on my V100 is my own doing. 1st was the dealers inexperienced junior mechanic chipping cylinder head paint and forgetting to reinstall the rear seat lock before putting the seat back on.

My issue I caused is I over-torqued and stripped the bolt hole's threads on the drive shaft/final drive's drain plug bolt hole. I didn't read the torque specs properly until I read it multiple times after. Lesson learned. I can get the bolt to stay in but I'm guessing it has only like 9ft/lbs instead of 21ish like the manual says. Replacing the part is probably best as I'm not sure if it's a good idea to try to do a heli-coil thread repair in a spot with oil. Probably also not a good idea to just leave it in at that low of a torque even if I put thread lock on it.

Question is if I can do this (replace the final drive cover) myself?
Is it just a matter of removing the cover by unscrewing bolts #20 & #1, and removing the 22 & 23 oil seal, or would I need to remove the wheel and other stuff?
I don't have the proper torque wrench to put the wheel back on as my torque wrench only goes to 90ft/lbs and not the 120 something that the wheel would need if I have to remove it. I'd rather save the $200+/hr the dealer will charge me if possible.

finalDrive.jpg
 
Why not drill and thread the hole one size larger. Flush any particles of metal out before refilling with gear oil.
There's a lot of work to be done to remove and replace the gears etc. The gear housing is likely very expensive also.
 
It will leak unless drilled perfectly straight, whether you go oversize or helicoil.
That means jig it up for a drill press or mill.

If I had to do this again I'd take it to a favorite machine shop that can machine a straight hole.
 
Raven said:
Why not drill and thread the hole one size larger. Flush any particles of metal out before refilling with gear oil.
There's a lot of work to be done to remove and replace the gears etc. The gear housing is likely very expensive also.
Click to expand...
If « you/he » have/has a full tap & die set, depending on a few things you might be able to use the next size up and get a bolt that size ?
(Yes, that might involve going from metric mm to an SAE size )
You might do well to Go talk to someone at a machine shop about your alternatives.
 
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Remove the final drive unit then remove bolts (1) and then the axle and crown wheel complete. The gear casing can now be drilled and tapped on a radial arm drill or milling machine also the seat may also need spot facing in order for the crush washer/gasket to seal properly.
 
JPC56 said:
Remove the final drive unit then remove bolts (1) and then the axle and crown wheel complete. The gear casing can now be drilled and tapped on a radial arm drill or milling machine also the seat may also need spot facing in order for the crush washer/gasket to seal properly.
Click to expand...
If you go to the time and trouble to pay someone to do that, might as well just replace the part.
 
Best to remove your rear drive assembly and have a machinist insert a Time Sert or helicoil. If you can give him just the housing that would make it even easier for the machinist. That hole must be square and a machinist has the equipment to do that.
 
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