• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Swapping V7sport oil pan to one with real oil filt

78AMIgrad

78AMIgrad

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
16
I'm new to Moto Guzzi but not to motorcycling. I have recently aquired a V7 Sport which the frame tag says was produced in July of 73 and is stamped as a 74 year. Has leftside shift but drum front brakes. Has the metal "Moto-Guzzi" logo on the tank instead of a sticker.

Anyhow...was wondering if I can just aquire the later style "filter in oil pan" set-up and is it a bolt on affair or is there more to it?
 
I believe you can. Once you drop the manifold that is bolted to the block, the new type pan should bolt right up. I'm hoping one of our venerable dealer types will chime in with the definitive answer.
 
I'm not a dealer, but I own early motors...

The V7 sport doesn't have an oil filter - at least the ones I've seen the insides of don't. (note - some much later ones might... look inside yours!)

No oil filter means no lines or castings to route oil to filter. So you can bolt a filtered sump up, but won't do you no good!

The 850GT (Eldo) and most 850Ts have no filter either, just a screen to screen out really big lumps of piston. So you change the oil every 2500km and remove the sump to clean the sludge every 2 or 3 oil changes.

At least that's what I did with my 850T and do with my GT. And they have both thrived under the regime. My mate Phil does the same with his V7sport and that's even harder work as it has an Agostini style fairing on it. Fighting your way into and out of that bike is a fair old job.

So whip the sump off[1] and eyeball inside. If you see an oil filter a new outside filter sump should bolt straight on. If all you see is a mesh cylinder then be prepared to be very good friends with your allen key as you remove 16 sump bolts every 5000km....

Zebee

[1] dont forget to remove *all* the bolts. Including the ones in the middle of the sump. If the sump is hard to shift, then find the bolt you haven't undone yet. Because broken fins from whacking a bolted sump are *so* embarassing!
 
Ok, thanks for the info, I thought if it was a simple changeout I'd consider it even though I would hang onto my old parts so I could keep it origional for when I go for the concourse V7sport......;)
 
If you can access a new type pan, remove the manifold from you block, all the oil routing for the no filter engines is there. Match the spacing of the manifold to the pan. If it lines up, then check that the bottom of the block passageways are on the same plane as the surface the pan bolts to (outer edge). If so, the new pan has all the needed passageways and will bolt up. You will just need the correct bolts for the center of the pan.
 
Please don't do it. It takes a full engine tear-down and case modification. Others have tried, and come up with wack oil pressure problems. Just change your oil every 3000 or less and it will be fine. Eldos and Ambassadors last forever without the filter.
 
Guzitech thanks for the graphic info and Fader, not to worry about modding, I saw people selling their T3 or whatever oil pans that had the screw in filter capabilities and figured if it was just a simple pan swap I might do it. Guess I'll just get me a magnetic drain plug instead :p
 
Escher in Germany offers a conversion with an oil pan spacer with external oil filter.
 
Re:Swapping V7sport oil pan to one with real oil f

Esher's rig is a kind on half-way solution. I only routes the oil going to the rear main bearing & rear cam bearing through the filter.

I'm with Sean, change the oil often and muck out the pan. I did the whole-hog mod since I had to re-gring the main bearings anyway so getting a filter-style front main was just as easy as a non-filter style, not to mention that the bare engine case was sitting there ready to machine the additional holes into.

GD

motoguzznix wrote:
Escher in Germany offers a conversion with an oil pan spacer with external oil filter.
Click to expand...
 
Re:Swapping V7sport oil pan to one with real oil f

If the bearings are all OK in your motor, it's worth doing and not really that tough. You do have to remove the crank and front main bearing, though. If you want to pursue this, I can tell you what needs doing. PM me.

I have used the Escher rig and have one hanging on the gay-raj wall. It filters only the oil to the back of the engine. Probably, it's not worth the money.
 
Re:Swapping V7sport oil pan to one with real oil f

When the oil filter was added the galley routing in the case was modified to allow it. It's a lot of work.

It all depends on what you want. If your v7 Sport is going to be a daily rider for the next 30 years? Yes, it's probably worth doing. If it is just going to be a weekend tool and classic show bike then I really wouldn't bother.

As with ANY bike of this age my suggestion would be to just go through it and return it to as close to stock as you can and just ride it. The days when there was anything to really be gained by major modification to these old girls, unless you're going racing, are long past.......

Oh, and the aftermarket kits? As others have said, it's a semi-bypass sollution. Better than nothing but your money would be more wisely spent on seals and gaskets as part of a total ground up rebuild.

Pete
 
I just plan on putting this bike back into good mechanical order and trying to keep it in its origional state, and maybe drive it 500mi or so a year.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top