• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.

T3 Cast Wheel - cush drive not fitting

W

Wandhoop

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 27, 2024
Messages
7
Location
Woodbridge, England,United Kingdom
I have a cast wheel which has been powder coated (by a previous owner). On a previous thread I've described the problems I've had removing the drive plate. I'm now trying to reassemble the cush drive and drive plate. Placing the rubbers in the hub I would expect them to fit snuggly. In my case they need to be pushed in with some force. Once all the rubbers are in place the vanes on the drive plate will not fit between rubbers easily. Even with lots of force (standing on the drive plate) they will not slide in.
Surely this is not correct? What I think is happening is that the powder coating is too thick and squeezing the rubbers so that they are taking too much space and making that gap between then too small for the vanes in the drive plate.
Should I expect the drive plate to slot back onto the wheel with minimal force?
Looking forward to your advice!
Thanks in advance,
Miles
 
Trim the rubber pieces to get the clearance you need. Your reason for not fitting well is correct. Drive plate should be a slip fit, not loose and not tight. Considering the age of those rubber pieces, you may want to replace them as they get hard with age. They are part number 14336803 and you need 12 of them.
 
Cush drive rubbers expand with age.

Obtain a new set. I bet they fit because powder coating is just not that thick.
 
I've had a similar issue with my T5, though in my case the wheel still has the factory finish. I pulled the wheel out for a tyre change and some other work but when I came to refit the wheel after about two weeks there was no way I could get the drive plate to fit. I tried Morris's red rubber grease and lots of force, but still nothing. The rubbers were hardened and the drive plate separated easily on disassembly. My only thought is that they somehow expanded in my workshop. I got a new set of rubbers, but they all had a significant ridge around them that needed trimming before fitting (I took it off on my 80 grit bench sander). Everything then went together firmly with no play and no excessive force required.
 
Mickeyluv said:
I've had a similar issue with my T5, though in my case the wheel still has the factory finish. I pulled the wheel out for a tyre change and some other work but when I came to refit the wheel after about two weeks there was no way I could get the drive plate to fit. I tried Morris's red rubber grease and lots of force, but still nothing. The rubbers were hardened and the drive plate separated easily on disassembly. My only thought is that they somehow expanded in my workshop. I got a new set of rubbers, but they all had a significant ridge around them that needed trimming before fitting (I took it off on my 80 grit bench sander). Everything then went together firmly with no play and no excessive force required.
Click to expand...
Why remove the drive plate to change a tire? I've changed many tires and never removed the drive plate.
 
Agreed.

I said "I pulled the wheel out for a tyre change and some other work" The other work was that the circular splash shield was missing when I got the bike and when I came to replace it two of the three studs were snapped off, one having had a previous attempt to drill it out and the drill had run off to one side into the alloy.
 
Mickeyluv said:
Agreed.

I said "I pulled the wheel out for a tyre change and some other work" The other work was that the circular splash shield was missing when I got the bike and when I came to replace it two of the three studs were snapped off, one having had a previous attempt to drill it out and the drill had run off to one side into the alloy.
Click to expand...
Please forgive me. Didn't know what the other work was. Looks like you are in need of a time sert for that wayward drilling operation. Hope you have success with the repair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top