T3 fork oil change

[fossilrider]

Well,more new ground for me.My '77 T3 FB is finally up and running,and a blast to ride.But.....every time I hit the smallest of bumps,I get a loud bang coming from the forks (left leg,I think).I have serviced lots of forks on dirt bikes through the years and just figured ,after sitting for several years that the oil had leaked out so decided to just replace the fork oil.The right leg only had an ounce or so and the left had none at all.Then I started checking the Haynes manual (worthless!) and couldn't believe it when it said 20cc per leg.Then I read that it is only for lubrication and not for damping.Question is: are the dampers in the legs rebuildable (can the oil in them be changed) or are they disposable/replaceable units?Also,is there info on servicing these,preferrably with pictures,on this site,or elsewhere?

 

[john zibell]

Doubt they can be rebuilt, but inexpensive enough to be easily replaced. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=553 Also fork oil isn't really necessary. As the oil is only for lubrication, you actually get less friction in the forks by using a 0 -30 weight synthetic engine oil.

 

[Chris R]

The FAc dampers are much higher quality and are definitely better but are also 240$ more than the OEM door dampers.I donT think any of them are rebuild able - I might be wrong.

 

[fossilrider]

Thanks for the replies guys.Yes,I have spent more than a few dollars at MG Cycles (great guys),but the FAC units are the only ones I see listed for the T3 and I was hoping to get out for less than the $300 since this bike,if I decide to keep it,will be a tool-around/cruiser bike which will probably never see any "spirited" duty.If these were for the '76 T3 I'm cafe-ing,I wouldn't mind throwing the Franklins at it,in fact I probably SHOULD do that upgrade on it since it will be ridden harder than this bike on a regular basis.There is a thought:spring for the FACs then switch forks on the two bikes.I'll have to give that some thought.One more question,while I have your ears,w3hen I was trying to put the 20cc of oil in the fork leg,I was trying to pour it in the top of the leg with the cap/plug removed but it didn't want to take the oil.What am I missing?Shouldn't the oil be poured in there? Thanks again.for the input.Regards,Steve

 

[Rafael]

John's link to the OE damper is for the T-3, shows 'in stock'.

The trick I use to get the oil into the fork leg is to remove the center bolt in the fork cap jack up the bike about an inch make sure the damper slides down then pour in oil. Suppose you can take the cap off but its not necessary.

My Haynes manual indicates 60cc T-3 forks. I use the Dexron ATF recommend -got a Ford truck so it works out.

 

[fossilrider]

My bad,Rafael.I didn't follow the link,just went to the MG site and found the OE units.They weren't listed in the bold type but were listed along with some other models,once I clicked on them.I had the bike on the center stand when trying to pour in the oil but maybe I need to jack it up to get the front wheel completly off the ground.? The oil just didn't want to go down past the top part of the damper.I'll give it another try today.Took it out for another 15 mile ride yesterday.What a great bike to just lope along on.Trying to just get some miles on it close to home,since it sat for so long,then I'll feel confident to venture out.I have other new(er) bikes that I love to ride and know they will get me home,but wouldn't mind actually taking the old girl for some short trips ,once I trust her enough.Less than 5k showing on the odo and it had sat for quite a few years when I got it (and the odo works) so the mileage might actually be correct.?Thanks,Steve

 

[Rafael]

MG Cycle has a good web site but I have to dig around a bit some times to find stuff and sometimes send them an email.

Nope, once you disengage the top bolt first. The front wheel will stay on the ground as you jack up the bike (on centerstand) from the font of the motor. You should see the top of the dampener start to recede right way as you go. Move slowly, if it doesn't move right way, tap the fork/axle with a mallet.

 

[fossilrider]

OK Rafael,got it.I hate to make you pay for being so helpful by asking even more questions,but.... When I do get the dampers,can I change them out without removing the fork legs?Though they probably should be removed and flushed anyway,on second thought.Also new seals,I suppose,while in there.Thanks again.Steve

 

[john zibell]

OK Rafael,got it.I hate to make you pay for being so helpful by asking even more questions,but.... When I do get the dampers,can I change them out without removing the fork legs?Though they probably should be removed and flushed anyway,on second thought.Also new seals,I suppose,while in there.Thanks again.Steve

I'll answer for Rafael, You need to do a complete fork tear down to replace the dampers. This would be a good time to put in new fork seals (everything is already apart) and add some fork gaiters plus a fork brace.

 

[fossilrider]

As I thought.I'm splitting my time/money right now between several projects I have going so will have to decide which way to go.probably go with the OEM dampers on the '77 and a bit later put the FAC units and fork brace on the '76 cafe (since it will be the "hot rod").I keep telling myself to use some restraint and whittle down to 2 or 3 projects but I keep finding orphans that I can't seem to resist.It's a disease!Thanks again Guys.