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V35 Imola 1980, poor very low and hight midrange

O

osvaldo

Just got it firing!
GT Contributor
Joined
May 31, 2012
Messages
7
Hi everybody,

first excuse me for my English that is poor (like Imola midrange? :)
I would like to have your opinion on my bike, as here in Italy I could not get any serious info....
I recently got the bike, with around 25000 miles and 10 years stopping, that needed some work on it to get on the road.
Apart of the obvious as lube changes, spark plugs and valve clearance, I have done the following:
1) rebuild blocked front-right brake pump as well as caliper.
2) correct a distortion on right-front disc.
3) clean carbs and put new floaters needles
4) removed some rust from tank and taps
5) changed spark plug caps and shortened a bit the HT cables as one was sparking towards the head, close to the cap (Bosch ignition modules- Nippondenso coils)
6) replaced the pick-ups cable that were almost naked and checked well the timing and gap.
7) checked cylinder compression and find around 130 PSI with small differences from right to left. (cold engine)
8) changed rubber sleeve connecting the carbs to engine
9) balanced the carbs

After that, I was able to drive it on the road, going almost well most of the time, but with occasional misfiring and other troubles that I will tell you right now.
The engine is pushing nice just over 2000 rpm up to 4000 rpm; after that is really very sluggish up to 6500 rpm and then is pushing much stronger than I would expect from a small twin 4 stroke of more than 40 years ago, up to over 8000 rpm.
When you go flat road or downhill this mood is not fine but does not disturb so much, but if go uphill narrow street is a punishment.
If you get below 2000 rpm in second gear no way to get out from there even opening throttle as slow as you like.
You are forced to get back first gear and keep the clutch slipping if you want to get over.

10) As apparently is not possible to change the spark plug cables (I did not trust them a lot) from the Nippondenso coils, I got on EBay a couple of new cheap coils and installed them.
Up to now no more misfiring but still the same engine behavior.

That is the story and now the questions....:
Any owner or expert of the Imola out there that can say if it is just like Guzzi made it, or I have something wrong on my bike?
I am wondering if is there any way to check the advance timing curve while the bike is going, as I think this could be involved.
What you think about?

Thanks a lot for your attention.

Regards
Osvaldo
 
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First off, don't go below 2,000 RPM while riding. These small block engines need to rev. It sounds like a jetting issue. Try raising the carb needle one notch and see if that makes a difference. Hard to give carb tuning instructions long distance. If the needle raise doesn't help, you may want to take the bike to a good repair shop for tuning.
 
Hi John,
thank you for your help.
Of course I don't go often below 2000 RPM but some time happen and I feel strange a four stroke in second gear can't get out from there. Anyway if you say Imola is supposed to act like that so I will keep in mind.
About needle I am on the middle notch and looking at the spark plug I am already on the rich side but is not a problem make a tray moving it; I'll do that and let you know the result.
I think there are no more on duty many mechanics that can put their hands on the bike better than myself, without wanting to be arrogant.
May be in Mandello del lario (not to far from my home) I could be able to find someone that is not just a 'change, try, cash in, and repeat the procedure ad lib'.
I'll let you know.

Regards
Osvaldo
 
The dealer in Mandello should be the place to go. Their reputation is outstanding. Since you say the plugs look like running rich, have you checked the condition of the air filter?
 
Yes, of course for the air filter.
I try moving needles up and down, but in both case bike was slightly worst.
If I can't solve my self I will have to take a chance with Agostini's shop in Mandello hoping they wuold like to work on my bike.
Before I would like to find someone who knows well the Imola to test my bike to have his opinion.
May be is just myself wanting to much from the bike.

Regards
Osvaldo
 
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You should be able to time the bike w/a inductive timing lite. There are marks on the flywheel to do so, same as a Lario or other SB of the time. At least you could check it. Look in shop manual for details.
 
Hi Steve,
thanks a lot.
I suspect too that may be something wrong there so I would like to make a good check.
Various shop manuals that I have refer only to breaker point type; mine is a CDI Ignition.
You can find info on this in the Owner Manual, but they suggest stroboscopic light check should be done by the dealer only.
They give suggestions for the static timing, which I done when I changed the pickups cables.
Any way they give instruction how to check the full timing curve on the breaker point system with the strobo, and I think it would not do any damage even on the CDI system (even if I am not a Dealer:)).
Just is a bit tricky and a helper is needed.
I'll do that and let you know.
I am still hoping to find here some owner of the Imola that can give his opinions on how my bike behave.

Have a nice day,
Osvaldo
 
The timing light I use hooks to the battery, and receives signal via an inductive pickup that goes around the spark plug lead. No damage to the CDI can occur with this type of timing light.
 
Yes, using lite that gets signal off plug wires is best. Like John says. Should not damage CDI system at all.
You need to check static & full advance on timing BEFORE doing any carb changes.
 
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