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V7 II power output and heated liners?

MatthewR

MatthewR

Just got it firing!
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Anyone had luck running heated gloves/vest/liner off the new V7 II motor? I can't seem to find it's alternator output numbers, so I don't know if it will support it, or leave me stranded.

I have the Warm and Safe gen 3 liner and gloves, but I don't know if this alternator can support that kind of gear, even on low. Anyone got any numbers, or seat-time experience using heated gear on the new alternator?

Thanks!
 
270 W, it's right there in the manual. Interestingly, this is less than the older dry alternator, which was 350 W.
 
sib said:
270 W, it's right there in the manual. Interestingly, this is less than the older dry alternator, which was 350 W.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I haven't bought the bike yet, so I haven't seen the manual. I'd say 270 isn't going to cut it for a liner. Maybe gloves, but probably just gloves...
 
I could not believe they put that small of an alternator in a new bike with all the electronic gizmos and ABS so I used the resources tab above and looked at the manual. Sure enough, a lousy 270W as Sib said. My 1998 Honda PC800 has been derided for an undersized alternator at 340W. With that I can just run a Gerbing vest plus a Gerbing jacket liner (gotta keep the ladyfriend warm) and heated grips. As long as we are moving or a few revs are on the meter it will keep up. At idle to just under 2,000rpm it is a losing proposition.
I also notice all the literature Moto Guzzi prints about the bike talks about looks and style while alluding to performance. Actual specifications of the downsized alternator are conveniently left out.
 
Keep in mind that the headlight, front running light, and tail light consume a total of about 70 of those watts, plus another ?? watts for the ECU and fuel pump, there aren't lot of watts left over for heated gear. This may be a good argument (maybe the only one) for LED lights.
 
I've been running an Aerostich Kanetsu electric vest on my V7 II for a couple weeks of occasional use. It draws 45 watts at 3 amps.

I did install an LED tail/brake light when I first got the bike, so that is saving me some current, and so far I haven't been left flat.

It would be useful to find out what the stock consumption is, to know what if any surplus there is...:nerd:
 
The Service Station Manual says 270W, but the Owner's Manual says 350W. Would be nice to know which is correct.
 
redge said:
The Service Station Manual says 270W, but the Owner's Manual says 350W. Would be nice to know which is correct.
Click to expand...
My V7II Stone owner's manual clearly states 270 W. As far as I'm aware, it's the latest version, dated 02_01/2015
 
sib said:
My V7II Stone owner's manual clearly states 270 W. As far as I'm aware, it's the latest version, dated 02_01/2015
Click to expand...

Happy you responded. Turns out my dealer gave me a V7 rather than V7 II paper manual, and the .pdf version that I have of the latter does indeed say 270W.

Does anyone know where it's possible to get a copy of the Service Station Manual in Italian?
 
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Let me say this, When I had an EV, she had a 350 watt charging system. Running Gerbing jacket, pants and socks did cause the battery to go flat after running several tanks of fuel on an all day ride. Last start of the day required a jump start. Ran the last tank with the electrics off, but at least I was further south and it had warmed a bit. Bike started OK the next day. So let me say this, 270 watts isn't much so beware what you run.
 
If you keep your core warm the extremnities also stay warm......so a heated jacket is worth more than heated socks.
AndyB
 
I'm planning to do some measurements on draw, and I'm not convinced that 270W, given the rest of the draws, is that confining.

I'm more interested in what's going on with the fuses. There's a 15A fuse that covers the headlight, but also the auxiliary in-built GPS, USB and Dashboard info via Bluetooth connections.

If one isn't using these auxiliary connections, the 15A fuse is for a headlight drawing a maximum of 5A. Which suggests that the fuse, if one is using only the headlight, isn't doing its job and should in fact be 7.5A rather than 15A. On the face of it, the use of a 15A fuse, unless one is also running the auxiliary functions, is irresponsible.

Time to connect a multimeter to each fuse position, with the fuse removed, to find out what the current is for a given function.

And also to figure out what electrical features I don't need, and how to replace them with ones I want, if any, that aren't currently (sorry) on the bike.

There are clearly components that can be either eliminated, or replaced with components that are as effective but draw less.

If anyone disagrees with the foregoing, and in particular with my view on that 15A fuse, I'd love to read your comments.

P.S. I should note that I am not suggesting that others make these measurements. The multimeter that I'm going to use is well built with high quality fuses. It will measure direct current, before the fuse blows, up to 10 amps, and up to 20 amps for 30 seconds. Not all multimeters will do that, and not all of them will do it safely.

This is also an issue of evaluation. I'm pretty sure that the current running through the 15A fuse that protects the headlight, unless one is running additional electrical components on that circuit, is closer to about 5A (A=W/V = 60W/12V=5A).

Depending on what I discover measuring current at the 5A, 15A and 20A fuses, I may see what happens with the 30A main fuse.

With the multimeter I'm using, worst that will happen at 30A is a blown fuse (I have spares, but at US$9 each they aren't cheap), but if anyone has tried it, would love to know your results.
 
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How can you say the fuse is not doing it's job. If all of the wiring is sized for 15A then as long as the draw remains under 15A everything is safe. The fuse is to be the first thing to fail if the draw exceeds the design limits of the circuit. The bulb may draw no more than 5A but it will not melt down anything if it burns out. If you could short out the bulb it would exceed 15A and the fuse would melt before the circuit. Read up on circuit design.
 
andyb said:
If you keep your core warm the extremnities also stay warm......so a heated jacket is worth more than heated socks.
AndyB
Click to expand...


I did a great deal of open equipment (no cab or protection) operation during winters in New England in the 60s and 70s. Feet became very cold many times (almost frostbite) and since very sensitive to the cold. Warm feet have become an necessity.
 
abbienormal said:
How can you say the fuse is not doing it's job. If all of the wiring is sized for 15A then as long as the draw remains under 15A everything is safe. The fuse is to be the first thing to fail if the draw exceeds the design limits of the circuit. The bulb may draw no more than 5A but it will not melt down anything if it burns out. If you could short out the bulb it would exceed 15A and the fuse would melt before the circuit. Read up on circuit design.
Click to expand...

No need to read about circuit design, Just read the actual Moto Guzzi V7 II wiring diagram. After you do so, very curious to know what you think.

It isn't even necessarily the case (haven't checked) that all the loads coming into this fuse are from the same circuit.

I'd love to know how a 15A fuse specified to take four constant loads, from one or more circuits, should in your view be specified to take one load.

Especially since the load, in this case, is about 5A, and the fuse is 15A.

If you can explain that (because you apparently think it makes perfect sense), I'd be greatly indebted.
 
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A fuse is normally rated about 1.5 to 2 0 x current. So a circuit running at 5A should have a fuse between 7.5A and 10A.
So a 15A fuse on a circuit drawing 5A is over rated.
The wiring must of course be rated at a higher value than the fuse.
These figures are used on the microlight aircraft that I work on.
AndyB
 
andyb said:
A fuse is normally rated about 1.5 to 2 0 x current. So a circuit running at 5A should have a fuse between 7.5A and 10A.
So a 15A fuse on a circuit drawing 5A is over rated.
The wiring must of course be rated at a higher value than the fuse.
These figures are used on the microlight aircraft that I work on.
AndyB
Click to expand...

Yes,

I think that the bike as it comes has a 15A fuse on the assumption that the auxiliary connections will be used, and I think that if they aren't the amperage of the fuse should be lower, and by quite a lot.

I'm going to test the headlight current, which I expect to be about 5A when it's turned on, and less shortly after once the headlight heats up/achieves full brightness. This will also make it possible to determine whether there is anything else going through that fuse apart from the headlight and auxiliary functions mentioned earlier. If it's about 5A, my intention is to replace the 15A fuse with a 7.5A.

If abbienormal wants to expand on why he thinks this is wrong, I'd be delighted to learn from him. Given that he has told me to read about circuit design, I gather that he knows a good deal about designing circuits, so I'm eager to hear more about his view.

One thing that I'd say is that this isn't a matter of the headlight reaching the end of its life, but of a short. Personally, I don't see how the thickness of the wire in the circuit, assuming that only one circuit feeds into this fuse (I haven't checked, but that is a big assumption in itself), somehow explains having a 15A fuse when the current is 5A.

Meanwhile, replacing a 15A fuse with a 7.5A costs, what, a buck fifty?
 
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