I have a single issue that I hope someone will comment on. I have always felt that the rear brake was less than desired. A little mushy suggesting air in the system. I finally attempted to address it today. My go to bleeding technique is to use a big syringe to force fluid in through the caliper bleeder. I use another syringe to start by emptying the reservoir. As I force more fluid through the system (backward, keeping the reservoir down) you remove all of the old fluid and the air. This has always worked flawlessly for me and given a very firm pedal or lever. It was almost the only way to get good results on the old linked brakes. Apparently something about the anti skid plumbing makes this system less than effective, though I can’t imagine why. My ending product was worse than what I started with. I went back did it again with the typical pump them up, release at the bleeder, repeat til you like it. The best I can get is about the mediocre result that caused the effort (maybe a little better). Any experience with problem or techniques to consider? Thanks, Mike
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V85TT Brake Bleed Issues
- Thread starter Circus
- Start date
I also think that the rear brake feels a little mushy. I was waiting until I have more miles on it because I have a bad habit of using only the front brake and think it may be that the rear pads are not yet fully seated (worn to match the rotor). Lately, I have been making a more concerted effort to use the rear brake frequently as I ride so will see if the pedal feel improves.
Have you tried bleeding the rear brake?
No, I have not. I am making an effort to use the rear brake frequently to make sure the pads are fully seated before I do anything else. The rear brake does work so I am not worried. I will try bleeding the rear brake after I make sure it is not just the pads needing to wear in.
Vagrant
GT Reference
The only way to get the air out of the V7 with ABS is to remove the rear caliper and get it way above the ABS unit. I'm sure the V85 is the same.
Folks, I’m in Newfoundland heading for Labrador and have acquired a “brake pedal sticking” message. The pedal is not sticking and there is no evidence the brake is sticking or dragging. Anybody know the source of this message or what to adjust? It’s a little difficult to ignore the red warning banner on the TFT. Looking forward to one of the resident wizards suggesting a solution. Thanks, Mike
You solved it. So bad brake light switch front or rear is the problem.
Looks to me like the brake lite might be generated by the abs system computer. Any knowledge of an actual switch and location? When this started the dash warning could be extinguished with a couple stabs at the brake pedal. No longer.
Mike, the brake signals start with the micro-switches on the master cylinders. That information is relayed to the dashboard, and then to the brake light. Not the ABS system (which is completely independent outside of the wheel sensor data supplied to it).
Ron Grant
Just got it firing!
I also noticed my rear brake function was dropping off. Had a look and found the caliper would not slide as required. On disassembly found one pin rusted and 100% seized and this was caused by the rubber boot that keeps moisture out was not properly located into its recess. Replaced with a new slide pin and rubber boot (from Suzuki DR650 caliper) and rear brakes are back to new again!
Caliper and brake function are fine Ron, thanks. Good tips though. Am between 300 and 400 miles with the red “Alert Brake Stuck” flag accompanied by the red alert triangle. All functions normal. When the key is on the brake light is too. It takes about 2-3 miles to get the TFT warning. No brake drag. Rotor is cool when checked. Interestingly, the cruise will not set. Clearly the bike thinks the brake is on automatically denying cruise. Also, no “off road” mode lock in. Again, the bike thinks the brake is on so apparently can’t disable abs rear for off road mode. Thrilled to hear the computer is not involved Tod. How about a tip on the location of the micro switches. I don’t see either one. I’m pretty sure the rear is the issue. Should be able to resolve by either cutting them or joining them. Got 3500-4000 miles to go and would love to get my cruise back. I can put put black duct tape over the warnings.G
There is a small micro switch that touches the rear brake pedal and another small micro switch that is part of the front master cylinder (touches hand lever). As Todd said, one of those is probably sticking. Maybe some mud or dirt from the road is causing the rear switch to stick. Look behind the big aluminum bracket that supports the foot peg and brake pedal and you should see the little switch.
Thanks Jerry! The front brake is indeed built in to the master cylinder in method that is not uncommon. When lever is in place it covers and depresses the switch. Pulling the lever lets the pin out activating the brake lite. Wires run back into the switch body and into the loom. Rear is a bit more difficult. I am almost certain that it is not mechanical. I can follow wires behind the aluminum peg plate from the front edge. It goes immediately through a black plastic cover on the back of the plate. The brake pedal is easy to inspect or remove. There appears no mechanical or physical contact with the pedal. I can only assume this switch must be magnetic and sense proximity of the pedal. The only way to address this is by removing the plate and uncovering the back. This involves one bolt that runs all the way through the bike and several other substantial frame pieces and the master cylinder and pannier rack, center stand etc. Not a parking lot job with travel tools. Unable to actually see the switch, I am reluctant to simply cut the wires. I’ll live with the TFT warnings and loss of cruise for a couple thousand more miles. I would appreciate it if someone could validate my magnetic switch supposition. Thanks all.
Folks, you’ll be interested to hear that well over 1000 miles into ignoring the “brake stuck” flag and associated red warning triangle; about 50 miles into today, both went off and the cruise works! Guess I won’t be taking it apart when I get home.
motojobobo
Just got it firing!
@Circus , a big relief for me to read that your ‘brake stuck” warning light solved itself!
I’ve been experiencing identical symptoms on my 2021 (10000 km) bike, while on the later stages of a month-long trip, since yesterday and wondering what is going on.
- No ability to set cruise control, this started earlier, about 1000 km back
- brake stuck warning light which only turns off when I slow down to less than 10 kmh speed; and will light up within a kilometer distance again.
- absolutely no brake drag
Based on your experience I’ll roll along and see what develops! Thanks!
I’ve been experiencing identical symptoms on my 2021 (10000 km) bike, while on the later stages of a month-long trip, since yesterday and wondering what is going on.
- No ability to set cruise control, this started earlier, about 1000 km back
- brake stuck warning light which only turns off when I slow down to less than 10 kmh speed; and will light up within a kilometer distance again.
- absolutely no brake drag
Based on your experience I’ll roll along and see what develops! Thanks!
In fact, I did take it apart when I got home. I replaced the brake switch. It was quite a job for just a switch. The switch is located in the right side cover just above the brake lever. It has to be removed to get at the switch. Fairly straight forward (but time consuming) and the switch was not expensive. The short term fix on the road would have been to simply unplug the switch. The bike would just think all was good, brakes would work fine. No brake light with rear brake. The plug is pretty accessible. The rear brake is one of the “cruise disconnectors” so when that switch says to turn on the brake light it also says turn off the cruise.