My 2021 has had some cold start issues, meaning that when the engine is cold(sat overnight) or for a few hours it was extremely hard to start. I am saying upwards of 7-9 hits of the start button then erratic idle. Once the bike was warm it would start easy and run normal. Tried a multitude of things, valve re set, found throttle body was not aligned in intake manifold and was half cocked, moved wiring around thinking i had interference, changed out oil and head temp sensors, changed out air flow sensor in intake. Did static fuel pressure test and got 28 psi. Cleaned fuel injectors and fuel pressure bumped up to 30psi.
I asked my local bike shops and MG dealer for ideas to look at, they had nothing. I tried multiple MG dealers on what my fuel pressure should be for my bike, none could tell me a pressure even with serial number. I was getting told min 40psi possibly and maybe a 45psi static pressure. Compared to cars fuel pressure this still seemed not quite correct?
I pulled the fuel pump to see if anything jumped out and was noticeable. Found the regulator sealing oring was gouged and i thought that was my issue as it was probably passing out the gouge. Fuel filter looked dirty but could not source one locally. The KTM bikes run the same filter but they wanted $93 for the filter and two sealing clamps.... WTF?? Found the filter on Rock Auto for $9.47, so bought three. Flushed the filter as a long shot and put the bike back together until the filters arrived.
No luck on the starting issue..... still bad. Filters arrived. This time when i pulled the pump i decided to test each part of the system. I wanted to see what the pump full output was and if over 30 psi then on to the testing the relief pressure of the regulator. Rigged up a test stand for the pump compete with gauge and pinned power and ground to the correct pins on the connector. Started with dead heading the pump to check for full pressure output and thats when my problem became crystal clear. I had a cracked fuel filter on the top seam allowing fuel back into the tank. This crack could not be seen with the eye, it had to be under pressure. I had no fuel coming out me regulator at all.
I changed the filter out and did a new test. Pump system pressure came instantly up to 60psi and my regulator was now flowing fuel. This now told me that my pump was good, my regulator pressure setting is 60psi and my system pressure for the injectors was 60psi. Not 40, not 45psi. Tested the old filter with air to find the crack, had to use 20psi and a magnifying glass to see the plastic flex at the seam to locate position of crack.
Put the pump back in the tank. Bike starts up first crack of the button and can sit overnight, two, three days ( time testing for pump schrader valve leak back). Bike goes to fast idle and has no bobble or RPM jumping. My bike has always bobbled a bit on RPM from the day i bought it until it was warm.
I now know what my bike should be for fuel pressure and symptoms of a possible cracked filter in the future. It would be nice to be able to get a tin fuel filter to fit in the system but the filter holder and top plug in ( oring sealed) design is meant for the Mahle KL 97 filter. For the ease of changing this filter out i am now looking at setting up a PM to change this filter yearly.
The video i had of the filter failure is too large to upload so there is two screen shots. One with the pump off and no leaks out of the filter and one with the pump on and the filter spraying out liquid from the crack.
I asked my local bike shops and MG dealer for ideas to look at, they had nothing. I tried multiple MG dealers on what my fuel pressure should be for my bike, none could tell me a pressure even with serial number. I was getting told min 40psi possibly and maybe a 45psi static pressure. Compared to cars fuel pressure this still seemed not quite correct?
I pulled the fuel pump to see if anything jumped out and was noticeable. Found the regulator sealing oring was gouged and i thought that was my issue as it was probably passing out the gouge. Fuel filter looked dirty but could not source one locally. The KTM bikes run the same filter but they wanted $93 for the filter and two sealing clamps.... WTF?? Found the filter on Rock Auto for $9.47, so bought three. Flushed the filter as a long shot and put the bike back together until the filters arrived.
No luck on the starting issue..... still bad. Filters arrived. This time when i pulled the pump i decided to test each part of the system. I wanted to see what the pump full output was and if over 30 psi then on to the testing the relief pressure of the regulator. Rigged up a test stand for the pump compete with gauge and pinned power and ground to the correct pins on the connector. Started with dead heading the pump to check for full pressure output and thats when my problem became crystal clear. I had a cracked fuel filter on the top seam allowing fuel back into the tank. This crack could not be seen with the eye, it had to be under pressure. I had no fuel coming out me regulator at all.
I changed the filter out and did a new test. Pump system pressure came instantly up to 60psi and my regulator was now flowing fuel. This now told me that my pump was good, my regulator pressure setting is 60psi and my system pressure for the injectors was 60psi. Not 40, not 45psi. Tested the old filter with air to find the crack, had to use 20psi and a magnifying glass to see the plastic flex at the seam to locate position of crack.
Put the pump back in the tank. Bike starts up first crack of the button and can sit overnight, two, three days ( time testing for pump schrader valve leak back). Bike goes to fast idle and has no bobble or RPM jumping. My bike has always bobbled a bit on RPM from the day i bought it until it was warm.
I now know what my bike should be for fuel pressure and symptoms of a possible cracked filter in the future. It would be nice to be able to get a tin fuel filter to fit in the system but the filter holder and top plug in ( oring sealed) design is meant for the Mahle KL 97 filter. For the ease of changing this filter out i am now looking at setting up a PM to change this filter yearly.
The video i had of the filter failure is too large to upload so there is two screen shots. One with the pump off and no leaks out of the filter and one with the pump on and the filter spraying out liquid from the crack.