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V85TT GTM SAS Delete

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by GTM®, May 5, 2021.

  1. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Purchase and more info here; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gt-motocycles-v7iii-v9-v85tt-sas-air-block-off-kit -- which our GTM RB EVO Fuel Kit is built around.

    We recommend starting by completing the evap/tip system resolve, which includes tank removal instructions for below, here; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v85tt-evap-and-tip-info.19893/ -- once done, and tank still removed:

    1. Locate and unhook SAS pump connections (electrical and rubber hoses), unplug oil pressure and head temp sensors (shown in step 2 below) and unbolt cylinder block off plates (one on each cylinder, left circled below):
    0C312B2E-EF0C-4A19-9AE5-4CBDC754F287.jpeg
    2. Remove SAS pump (slide left off of rubber mount studs, better seen in step 3 below), hoses and air supply plates, this includes the connection to the air box in step 6 below.
    0334EC58-CC03-4A46-BDE0-9C47A8CD739F.jpeg
    3. Pump removed as shown, along with air supply plates. It's easiest to unplug the oil pressure sensor, and head temp sensors as shown below. Carefully note or photograph the connectors to insure proper reconnection.
    06EE7105-1946-4E11-B6B2-167570CECA8E.jpeg
    4. Each cylinder port should look like below, for step 5 below.
    DBC304A3-39C1-4781-A1C1-E0428156BAE3.jpeg
    5. Transfer the valve plate to each GTM supplied CNC block-off plate, note orientation when removed and fit for larger radius, (inverted for pic) top right, as shown for each side.
    C548F5C4-CC1B-4A0A-973B-1C35FAA220A6.jpeg
    6. On the air box intake connection spigot to the SAS pump, cap per second pic below.
    87C3B517-C164-4A10-AACC-DF7E8BB5F636.jpeg
    5269E5EA-46C8-4661-A26D-0EB2D8D588B5.jpeg
    7. Plug in supplied pigtail connector to stock wiring harness connector, and secure as desired. Left block-off plate shown, the right is a little hard to get to, and tough to photograph. Be sure to reconnect the oil pressure and head temp sensors, and reinstall tank. End.
    E1D09516-5863-4481-8FFD-C85DF97777B7.jpeg
     
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  2. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Instructions added above. This will help running stand-alone, but critical for the RB EVO Kit available HERE
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  3. jwtucker

    jwtucker V11 Sport 4 Life

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    The timing of this thread is impeccable. Its as if your ears were burning or something, Todd :)

    __Jason
     
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  4. Paultergeist

    Paultergeist Just got it firing!

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    Greetings......I apologize that this is probably a rather rudimentary question....but what *is* the SAS, and what are the advantages of deleting it?
     
  5. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Paultergeist likes this.
  6. jwtucker

    jwtucker V11 Sport 4 Life

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    In addition to what Todd posted previously, the other thing SAS does is pre-burn exhaust gasses to improve the efficiency/lifespan of the catalytic converter. If you've replaced your exhaust with one that DOES NOT have a catalytic converter, then the SAS system provides zero useful benefit, as the SAS and cat are intended to work together. Leaving the SAS intact if you've deleted the cat is utterly pointless, and will only make your bike sound like crap due to excessive decel popping. Some people seem to like this popping because they imagine it makes it sound like they have a race motor or something. To me, the excessive popping sounds like trash... as if there is leak in y our exhaust headers (which, in effect, is exactly what the SAS is... a "controlled" exhaust leak).

    Some of the car "tuners" around here seem to like putting new open exhausts on their "fast & furious" type cars, but leave the SAS in place. The result is every time they let off the gas, it sounds like a machine gun going off. Again, they think it's "cool"... I think it just makes it sound like they have no idea how to tune a car.

    __Jason
     
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  7. Paultergeist

    Paultergeist Just got it firing!

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    Ah......now I understand. Good to know. I am interested to doing the "y-pipe" cat delete in the future, and it sounds like this SAS elimination kit should be part of that plan.

    Thanks for helping me gain knowledge.

    I never cared for that decel-popping effect either.
     
  8. Matthew Nuttall

    Matthew Nuttall Tuned and Synch'ed

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    For anyone wondering, the right front bolt is definitely the hardest to get out, so much stuff in the way it's hard to get a straight shot.
    20210617_230421.jpg
     
  9. Garry Clark

    Garry Clark Just got it firing!

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    Have to agree with that Matthew. I tried and tried to no avail so I took off valve cover, valve train and cylinder head and did it on the bench.
    Everything is back together and the bike is running so good. I’m going for a long ride tomorrow. Ripper.
    One thing I noticed was after install and three start ups the engine management light came on and the bike wouldn’t start. The battery was over 2 years old and never had trickle charge (slack me) so new battery in and problem solved. Beautiful.
    I have to say I’m a yobbo and don’t recommend this method it just worked for me
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2021
  10. Matthew Nuttall

    Matthew Nuttall Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Disassembling the engine is not in the cards for me.

    I was able to get it out with a ball end Allen key and a homemade long arm/stubby Allen key - you can break the tension on the bolt by coming in from the valve cover side with the stubby Allen key.

    Reverse process will hopefully not be too traumatic.
     
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  11. blue thunder

    blue thunder Just got it firing!

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    I recently ordered a 2021 model (E5) and was reading about the SAS removal. Is it all the same on this new model?
    Are there differences betweem US an EU models?
     

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