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V85TT Oil pan seeping leak

Anyone seen any minor oil leaks on new V85TT bikes?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 45.5%

  • No

    Votes: 6 54.5%
  • Total voters
    11
Nedmac briskov

Nedmac briskov

Fired up and twisty
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I’m almost 500 miles into my new v85tt and have noticed a small amount of oil escaping the oil pan gasket. I’m sure it’s a simple break in thing, and when I do the first oil change, I’ll re-torque the bolts and that should be sufficient to solve the issue. But I’m just wondering if anyone else has seen something like this on their new goose. Thanks
 
Nedmac briskov said:
I’m almost 500 miles into my new v85tt and have noticed a small amount of oil escaping the oil pan gasket. I’m sure it’s a simple break in thing, and when I do the first oil change, I’ll re-torque the bolts and that should be sufficient to solve the issue. But I’m just wondering if anyone else has seen something like this on their new goose. Thanks
Click to expand...

Just replace the pan gasket when you do the oil change. Then you should have no leak. Give you a chance to inspect the pan and block surfaces in the process.
 
Small leaks from the oil pan have not been an uncommon complaint on the V85. The vast majority that I've read about have been solved by tightening the oil pan bolts. I gave mine a quick twist when I was in there last.
 
Tightening steel bolts tighter in an aluminum block, is not the right way to rectify this! Please don’t do that.

As John said, a new gasket will work but there is a simpler, efficient, and cost effective solution.

A light smear of Hylomar Blue on the gasket mating surface, will stop it from leaking indefinitely, while the Hylomar remains pliable forever. (Hylomar is also completely resistant to gas and oils but is easily removed with acetone. Nothing works on old carburetor float bowl leaks like Hylomar!)

I’ve had the same gaskets in many of my motorcycles and scooters for many years using this method.

Hylomar Blue was developed for jet and turbine engines, to allow engine tear down and repair in the field, while providing leak free gasket and/or surface to surface mating.

It’s truly fantastic stuff and if you ask me, I’ll tell you that every toolbox should have some in it!

C0B8B613-48EB-42B3-B21F-451EF5E81CAE.png
 
Last edited:
I only tightened them because they were literally finger tight and not to spec from the dealer. And that’s what caused the “leak” which was more of a slow seep. No need to purchase extra products here
 
It's just offered as useful information from my personal experience.

If you don't find it helpful, I don't care. Disregard it.

I'm not trying to persuade anybody. 👌👍✌️
 
If you’re getting aggressive vibes from my reply I apologize. I had no I’ll intent. I was just explaining why tightening the bolts worked for me. Not trying to discredit your information or experience.
 
:shake: Not at all. It's all good.:party:

Some people think I'm being aggressive here when in fact, I'm just brutally blunt. My editor for sweet and candy coated just has never worked for me at all.

I genuinely love to help people that are happy to get help, but I don't want to get into a pissing match with anybody here. I don't need that at all. If what I have to offer isn't wanted or appreciated, I just wish they would move on but most of those people will say something backhanded. Todd, bless his soul, removes most of them.

Besides, there are plenty of "those types" of people (curious, 99% of them are on Harleys) who come into Scott's Motorcycle Workshop every day looking for a fight or argument! I don't engage them either! :D
 
scottmastrocinque said:
Tightening steel bolts tighter in an aluminum block, is not the right way to rectify this! Please don’t do that.

As John said, a new gasket will work but there is a simpler, efficient, and cost effective solution.

A light smear of Hylomar Blue on the gasket mating surface, will stop it from leaking indefinitely, while the Hylomar remains pliable forever. (Hylomar is also completely resistant to gas and oils but is easily removed with acetone. Nothing works on old carburetor float bowl leaks like Hylomar!)

I’ve had the same gaskets in many of my motorcycles and scooters for many years using this method.

Hylomar Blue was developed for jet and turbine engines, to allow engine tear down and repair in the field, while providing leak free gasket and/or surface to surface mating.

It’s truly fantastic stuff and if you ask me, I’ll tell you that every toolbox should have some in it!

View attachment 24522
Click to expand...
Off topic but would you recommend it on passenger vehicles for transmission and oil pans?
 
Yes, I do.

If the bolts were properly installed, then tightening them more is only causing undue stress to very tiny threads. This is how the millions of pan bolts that get stripped every year, occur.

My point is that there are some excellent chemicals that work very well. Oil leaks do not exist on my motorcycles or the ones I repair because of intelligent chemistry. Hylomar is one of my favorites and it came from the jet aircraft engine arena.

John’s suggestion is a good one because a new, healthy, uncompressed gasket, will almost always seal perfectly. I guarantee that it will seal permanently until torn apart, if assembled with a very thin layer of Hylomar added to both surfaces of the new gasket. The benefit is that upon reusing the same gasket with Hylomar, it will again reseal perfectly.

Look, I have used this stuff on vintage motorcycles with very difficult to locate and purchase gaskets. I have taken old gaskets and made them function like new.

You have to decide for yourself if this is of value to you. If not, no big deal. Move on.

Unfortunately people are people and the general behavior with a wrench or screwdriver is to tighten things until it won’t tighten any more. Then, one day, they are tightening and it feels like it’s getting loose, so they tighten some more (breaking aluminum threads with a steel screw or bolt) and it gets looser and the bolt then falls out surrounded by broken threads.
 
Hylomar is a favorite of the Harley folks. Personally, don't use any gasket sealer unless the factory shop manual says otherwise.

One trick to getting a reliable gasket seal is to take the time to scrupulously clean the gasket sealing surfaces. And when you think its clean, clean it again.

Jason
 
Scott,

You mention reusing gaskets after coating them with Hylomar. Do the parts separate easily? I recently purchased a Permatex product that claimed to be similar to Hylomar Blue (because it was in stock at the local auto parts store rather than ordering Hylomar online and waiting to finish my project). The Permatex became very sticky as soon as I squeezed some out of the tube. I used it on both sides of the gasket I was installing, but ended up throwing the rest of it away because it was very sticky and I think it will be hard to separate the joint (and impossible to reuse the gasket).
 
Hylomar is very fluid but it dries partially to a sticky substance. It never hardens. It was specifically engineered for jet engine tear down and reassembly in the field.

The trick to using it properly is to squirt a pool into a paper plate and using a nylon bristle chip brush of an appropriate size, put a light coating on both sides of the gasket and wait a few minutes for it to tack up, then assemble as usual and you are good to go. The gasket will seal perfectly, and when you have to next disassemble, it will come apart very nicely. You can then apply a fine coat again, and repeat the use.

Excess cleans up easily with acetone.

hylomar.com/en/mwdownloads/download/link/id/130/
 
Thanks for the explanations and application recommendations. I will order some to have for next time.
 
It’s really really really great stuff.
 
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