V85TT Tubeless Wheel Conversion

[Marco_Guzzi]

Hi everyone,

Since my recent flat tire experience, which resulted in a slightly chapped hide, missed appointment, towing, melted tube & damaged tire (per my last post), I've decided to give it a go and convert my wheels to tubeless prior to mounting new tires. After scouring the interwebs for DIY info on the subject, I've decided to follow some tried and true methods, but I've chose to try some products that I've not seen used before. I will document the process here for anyone that's interested. The front tire hasn't arrived yet, so this will cover the rear wheel only - but the process should be identical. I'm into this for about $87.00 in materials for both wheels, (Not including tires of course).


Here is the general process I will follow:

1. Check spoke nipples to ensure none are loose.
2. Use course end brush bit to clean spoke nipples and rim recesses.
3. Clean the aforementioned areas with compressed air and brake cleaner.
4. Pre seal spoke nipples with Flex Seal Spray.
5. Seal off spoke nipples / rim recesses with Lexel Clear sealant.
6. Wrap / seal center of rim, over sealed spoke nipples with 1.88" Crystal Clear Gorilla Tape.
7. Install Puig 8.3mm 90 degree Valve Stems.
8. Mount Shinko 705 tire.
9. Fill with air and say a prayer!
10. Test ride and recheck air pressure frequently.

I'm thinking that with three levels of sealing I should be golden.

I may start this project today after work, or tomorrow AM. I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

[scott_m]

I would not expect this to be a reliable modification and it will not last because any movement of the spoke nipple will tear out any sealant. The nipple rotates both inside the rim and outside the rim when being tightened, which will need to be periodically done.

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

I would not expect this to be a reliable modification and it will not last because any movement of the spoke nipple will tear out any sealant. The nipple rotates both inside the rim and outside the rim when being tightened, which will need to be periodically done.

I realize it's not a long term solution, but if it lasts until the next set of tires, I'll take it. The sealant will have to be removed to access the spoke nipples in the future. So I'll either do it again, or fork out the cash for the oe tubeless wheels. But at less than 1/10 the cost of o.e. tubeless wheels, I'm giving it a shot.

 

[GerryAZ]

You may want to confirm that the tube-type OEM rims are the correct shape to properly seal the bead areas of the tubeless tires before you attempt this modification. One of the reasons I purchased a 2021 rather than saving money with a leftover 2020 was because the 2021 came with tubeless tires.

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

You may want to confirm that the tube-type OEM rims are the correct shape to properly seal the bead areas of the tubeless tires before you attempt this modification. One of the reasons I purchased a 2021 rather than saving money with a leftover 2020 was because the 2021 came with tubeless tires.

Everything I've read confirms this about the earlier V85TT wheels, as does the rear wheel design. I've not dismounted the front wheel as of yet, so that still remains to be seen...

 

[davethewelder]

There's a guy on Ebay, I think from Japan he sells a product called Outext. Never used it but it sounds good, it uses a similar tape and some little round pieces that cover spoke nipples and allows for adjustment and tape to seal inside of rim. I think you could do something similar with Gorilla tape, that some sticky tape.

 

[Vagrant]

Every Guzzi site has threads on this. I did mine on my 2020. Everybody has a different idea. But as a warning, I would not use two different substances on it. Just one proven one. Very important fact, the V85 wheel is coated with something like the teflon on a frying pan and some things don't stick to it. Rough the crap out of it and clean it thoroughly with what ever goop you use recomends. Read the label! Do not trust tape to do the job!
JMHO!

 

[Ralph Glorioso]

I have done multiple wheels in the tubeless configuration, including both my Stone Touring models from the early 2000s. Your plan is thorough and I have only one suggestion to add: Before replacing a converted wheel on the bike, inflate it to at least 60psi and place it in a large tub of water (a bathtub is fine) and rotate the wheel slowly until all of it has passed through the water. Any tiny bubbles emanating from around a spoke nipple are clear evidence of a leak. If that occurs, take a grocery store fruit bag twist and wrap it around the spoke connected to the leaking nipple(s). The water immersion process has proven a better identifier of leaks than brushing on soapy water.

Ralph

 

[GTM®]

I think you could do something similar with Gorilla tape, that some sticky tape.

Do not use duct or Gorilla tape. It will come loose and ball up in a sticky mess and imbalance the tire. Seen it far too many times now.

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

Well...that did NOT go as planned. It was all good until I discovered that the new valve stems were too wide and wouldn't sit flush to seal due to the bulbous spoke mounds on the rim. I tried filing the sides of the valve stems down, but they still wouldn't sit flush. Then I tried removing some material from the spoke mounds and ended up damaging the sealing surface on the rim for the valve stem. The rear wheel is RUINED. So...turns out I'm doing this the right way - I bit the bullet and ordered the o.e. tubeless wheels. At least I won't have to worry, and if I ever sell the bike it will be legit, and an excellent upgrade. Next I'll be installing an onboard mini compressor and tire plug kit.

 

[davethewelder]

Why reinvent the wheel when you just buy it! tubeless is the way to go.

 

[Vagrant]

The NAPA 90-46 is a simple, cheap valve stem cure.

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

The NAPA 90-46 is a simple, cheap valve stem cure.

Good to know... several days ago!

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

Look Ma...NO TUBES!

 

[Theomarakas]

Look Ma...NO TUBES!

View attachment 26674
View attachment 26675View attachment 26677

Sir, If you don't mind me asking....who makes those tires and are you happy with them? They look like they can handle some dirt and should be smooth on pavement.

 

[Marco_Guzzi]

Sir, If you don't mind me asking....who makes those tires and are you happy with them? They look like they can handle some dirt and should be smooth on pavement.

No problem! They are Shinko E-705. You can't beat the price and value. They're are great on the street and adequate for what I do off-road. Highly recommended!

 

[Theomarakas]

No problem! They are Shinko E-705. You can't beat the price and value. They're are great on the street and adequate for what I do off-road. Highly recommended!

Thank you, much appreciated. I'm using the Michelin Anakee, they are good but silly expensive. I was looking at the Continentals, I use the brand on everything, cars, bikes, bicycles. However, it is good to know that there's another alternative, tested and approved.

 

[Bisbonian]

Thank you, much appreciated. I'm using the Michelin Anakee, they are good but silly expensive. I was looking at the Continentals, I use the brand on everything, cars, bikes, bicycles. However, it is good to know that there's another alternative, tested and approved.

I've used Shinko 705 tires for a long time, I agree with Marco_Guzzi in that you can't beat the price and value. They will likely show up on my V85 at the next tire change.

 

[1400 Jeff]

I would not expect this to be a reliable modification and it will not last because any movement of the spoke nipple will tear out any sealant. The nipple rotates both inside the rim and outside the rim when being tightened, which will need to be periodically done.

You still need sealant sloshing around inside. Stand, Ride-on or something.

 

[lemans850i]

Just a little info from a previous live of mine...
Make sure your rim is designed for tubeless tires!!!!
On the choppers who run wide tires on the back 300mm (no tubes) on spoke wheels... the low center section of the rim, is getting taped off, U- shape naked, the this area media blasted to provide grip for the sealant , then cleaned perfectly, wipe down with Acetone.

Make a spreader that has the profile of the rim but the center part is 3/16 off the bottom! Valve stem installed, no core, insert Slilicon tube into the valve and secure with M2 or M3 counter sunk bolt (nut on the hub side, countersunk bolt head creating a slight mushroom shape of the silicon tubing) and verify the height with the spreader to match perfectly!
Silicone will not adhere!
Placing the wheel with the axel on a stand so you can rotate it easily...
Get two or three cartridges of polyurethane sealant – 3M windshield glue.. all at room temperature..
Prepare a small dish of soapy water… More soap then water LOL!
Put your finger in the water / soap and place it on each end of each Nippel once... let it dry room at temperature ..
Next day is the big day… Lol
Two people job… Just to be fast and efficient and don’t give the polyurethane time to skin over!!
First apply sealant around and then onto the Nippel trying not to trap any air... and get it level with the rim
And again and again... 36? Times..
Now you can take The application tip off the cartridge and start filling up to the 3/16”.. fill and spread...
About 2 inches of the circumference at one time.. work neatly! Don’t trap air.., smooth surface!!..
Acetone can be used to smooth surface out and clean up...
Use lint free rag!!!!!!!!!
You are adding weight to the wheel and the more precise you work the less balance weights you have to use!
Unmask the inside and smooth tape edge of the sealer carefully out!!
Walk away from it for one week!

Take silicone tube out of the valve stem...

Done

You end up with a solid polyurethane belt ... and nipples should still turn...

Damn, that was a long time ago..