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What to do now

guzziks

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
9
In taking the front wheel off the Norge for first time tire change, the brake caliper bolts were over tightened in the factory. The right ones finally broke loose, but the left two are so tight I gave up when it felt like the allen heads were going to round out.

The bolts are not rusty or corroded at all, the ones that came out are totally clean. They were just torqued too tight, probably an impact driver set wrong. Too much lunch vino?

Any ideas on how to get them loose would be appreciated. I don't have an impact wrench, but can get one, but never heard of using one for an allen head bolt.
 
Yes, they tend to be as tight as buggery. While I haven't yet had to use one perhaps a heat gun would be the way to go?

They are also 7mm hex's from memory which is a bit of an oddball size. If you've been trying a 6mm key that wouldn't help.

Pete
 
Yes they are 7mm, I did not have a socket type allen and by chance had an L shaped one and had to use a cheater pipe to get any leverage. The L shaped one was only about three inches long.

Is the idea to heat the caliper threaded area to get it to expand more than the bolt?
 
I'd buy a 7mm in-hex socket and then use a ratchet handle with a medium length extension. The extension allows you to steady the socket and keep it at the correct angle. An Allen key isn't up to that job. Failing that I'd take it to a workshop which has an air-powered "rattle gun" and a 7mm in-hex socket. In this case I would not use a hammer operated impact wrench.
 
If you get a 7mm allen head socket, I wouldn't get a Craftsman/Sears one. I broke two of them trying to get those bolts off. The dark metal allen head tip just shattered, either because of poor metalurgy, or perhaps design which looked like a larger size key was cut down to 7mm, creating stress points at the cut down. Fortunately I was able to return them for something more useful. A more expensive but clearly better designed/constructed Snap-on socket then did the job without any further drama. I keep it in my bike tool kit in case I need to get that tire changed on the road, as I suspect some bike shops might not have that odd size socket.
 
Re:What to do now - Norge brake caliper bolts

Stubby socket allen like the one below takes them out easy with a 14" long 3/8" drive ratchet, without drama.

Snap-on version below (only ones I'll own) is only $13.75. Click below for details:

 
Re:What to do now - Norge brake caliper bolts

if it rounds out, extractors arent expensive

if you arent familliar with an extractor, it's like a left handed tapered tap, where you drill a hole in the center of the bolt (or close) and you start threading it, and it grabs more and more, the more you tighten it. Of course, if you dont have a spot drill and a tap handle, you are a little out of luck
 
Thanks for the advice, off to the snap on truck. I'm also a fan of snap on and have sockets, but not this wierdo 7mm.

I was able to get the wheel off with only one brake caliper removed, fairly easy. Little extra trouble putting back on. When looking at the hex head recess you can see the deformation on the faces done by the factory impact device. I'm going to order new ones just to be safe for next time.
 
Thanks for the advice. Met the snapon guy, got the hex socket recomended above. Also made the mistake of getting into the truck and letting him show me a new 3/8 drive that has 80 some teeth, smallest movement of any ratchet ever. Bought the 12 inch? long one. Not cheap, but it was just too nice.

The combo worked, very tight though.

I also put them and most all bolts back with anti sieze, I also coat the axles with Moly paste, sometime anti sieze and have never had a rusted/stuck axle since.
 
One of the first things I did when I got yhe Norge, was to take out all those bolts, grease them and replace. Did the wheel spindle clamps, and those in the fork yokes too.

No sign of loctite anywhere Graham. The only place I have found that is on the brake disc carrier to hub bolts. Now those were really tight. Required the bolt head to be heated up with an oxy-acetyline flame to soften the goo.
 
guzziks
Well done.

Brian
Yes many of the fasteners on my bike were hyper-tight too, and like minds think alike about removing and applying anti-sieze to things prone to corrosion when a bike is new. While I can't recall finding Loctite on the Guzzi, every fastener on the Buell seems to have it. Works though, because nothing has come loose in 24,000km despite a lotta-shakin-goin-on.
 
No locktight on the bolts, the threads were totally clean. The only place I've ever seen locktight is on the disk carrier to hub and that was on my 900ss Duc. I think that is normal on most bikes. I usually follow the shop manual torque requirements (if you can find them) on all essential bolts. On the Duc, though I did not use the reccomended locktight in reapplying the disks to the new magnesium wheel. I race wired them.
 
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