Rwmorgan
Just got it firing!
Just starting my pvc install on my 2016 eddorado . Theres a red and a green wire to the ingectors .Which side are they to go to or does it mater? looking forword to getting back on the road.
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Power Commander-V & AT-300 Install How-To for your California 1400
- Thread starterGTM®
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Todd doesn’t reply here normally because he cannot see everything people post.
Send email to
Info@guzzitech.com
Left. Yellow and white wires go to the right injector.
…put some miles on it and here’s my comment s on my $$$$ upgrades
GTM custom Black pipes and ECU
Matris Front and back Shock upgrades
Avon Cobras
(Front and back cameras)
The shocks are much more sophisticated than stock and the ride and feel really is a huge improvement,
The engine “voice” from the new pipes and ECU is just awesome to hear as well as a notable increase in and the bikes pwr performance ..while running a cooler engine.
Turismo is now more like Veloce! Veloce is “Forget about it“
Lighter pipes, sticky Cobras plus the improvement in low speed power x’fer provided by the ECU transformed my Eldorado into the Sport bike category.
Worth ever penny.
Thanks a ton for the thoughts Brian. Would you mind posting your words on the product pages as a Review? They really do help.
For the fuel kit, be sure to send me the PC map for review after ~100 miles, and annually or at every service interval as a minimum.
Dmonte18
Just got it firing!
Very new to posting please forgive is this is redundant. I recently installed Agostini slip ons....running lean now with decel pop. How or where do I get bike remapped. I'm in western new York. Thanks
Dmonte18….welcome to the forum
if you have fitted the AGOSTINI slip on you will need to address the fuelling.
Identify which 2017 California 1400 you have …ie does it have SAS does it have latest ECU…post your vin number and you can get date of manufacture
Once you have this info there are options…some cheap and not so good and some not so cheap but recommended.
But be aware the latest 2017 California is not an easy ecu to crack and modify.
Ask your questions and read the answers to date….using search…just remember that a 2017 California can be vastly different to amother 2017 or 2013 for that matter…..it’s all to do with manufacture date and latest ecu.
I know….I am experiencing these issues as we speak
regards
Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
if you have fitted the AGOSTINI slip on you will need to address the fuelling.
Identify which 2017 California 1400 you have …ie does it have SAS does it have latest ECU…post your vin number and you can get date of manufacture
Once you have this info there are options…some cheap and not so good and some not so cheap but recommended.
But be aware the latest 2017 California is not an easy ecu to crack and modify.
Ask your questions and read the answers to date….using search…just remember that a 2017 California can be vastly different to amother 2017 or 2013 for that matter…..it’s all to do with manufacture date and latest ecu.
I know….I am experiencing these issues as we speak
regards
Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
Thanks Gavin, your issue is with the installer. We've done dozens of '17s globally with zero issues outside of the CEL.
Thanks Todd…..email sent to info@
thanks
thanks
MFed
Just got it firing!
So, after reading this thread many times I bit the bullet and purchased the GTM full fueling kit (PC6/AT-300/ECU) and full stainless exhaust. For the record, I didn't have any major issues with my (new to me) 2017 Cali touring that I purchased this summer (purchased with 4,000km on the clock and in better than factory condition). I thought it was a beautiful motorcycle with the exception of some mildly irritating surging at low RPM, anemic sound, and that it was cooking my man-parts on warm days. After spending some time on this forum, I decided that I didn't like the idea of my exhaust crossover cracking or the motor running as hot as it was. A sizable MasterCard bill later I had what I needed from Todd. I wanted to relay my experience and impressions here for posterity. For context; I'm of reasonable technical skill when it comes to cars and bikes but am new to Guzzi's.
I read and re-read the instructions on this thread and those provided by Todd before embarking on the ECU flash. The YouTube video that GTM provides was very helpful and my experience followed that pretty closely. Once I had the ECU flashed, I removed the stock exhaust, floorboards, and side trim panels necessary to access the O2 sensor wiring. I found it was best just to remove all of this at the beginning as it made routing the PC6/AT wiring much easier. I then proceeded with the PC6/AT wiring as per the instructions on this thread. I did find that on my bike, I was unable to locate the PC6 and AT300 under the left side cover due to the factory alarm module taking up too much room. I located the PC6 on the ECU cover, which makes it much easier to connect to a PC for pulling data and leaves enough room under the side cover for the AT300 and extra wiring. I also found that the wire for my keyed 12V source for the PC6 was not the same colour as in the instructions. Use a multimeter to be sure you have the right one. Also note that you need the Power Core software from Dynojet for the PC6 and not the PCV software that you use for the PCV. They are different and your PC won't recognize the PC6 without the right software. Other than this, the installation was straightforward and as per instructions. Make sure you route the right wires to the right/left cylinders, I needed to look deeper into the thread to find out which ones went to which cylinder.
Installation of the exhaust was also fairly straightforward and the quality of the fabrication of the product is really unbelievable; the work is literally perfect and no issues with fitment. I followed the instructions and it went together without issue. It's a bit fiddly to get it all aligned properly with such tight tolerances at the joints, but if you've got it right, it will fit together perfectly. I struggled a little initially to get everything aligned, but realized that it was because I had not installed it properly. I removed it and tried again and it went on perfectly. Make sure that you wear gloves and use a good degreaser to remove finger prints from the exhaust before you get it hot or it will show them. You will get bluing of the header pipes but if it's uneven you can polish it clean with some stainless compound. There are substantial weight savings going to the GTM exhaust also.
When I fired it up the first time I was floored. First by the fact that I had apparently got the install right enough that it fired and second that the bike sounded amazing. Burbly at idle but not ignorant. I did notice that my left cylinder was running hotter than the right. A little troubleshooting with Todd and a remote tuning session and we had it all sorted out. I have to say that the technical support offered by GTM is second to none.
Now for the good stuff; what is the result? I took it easy on the bike for the first hour or so just to make sure everything was working. As things seemed fine I started using more right hand and then started wringing it out. I'm so pleased with the results. All the slow speed surging is gone. On/off throttle response is so much smoother to the point where it is noticeable in terms of control in the corners. In town it completely gets rid of the surging and it now looks like I actually know how to operate the bike... The man parts-cooking heat is better to the point where it's completely comfortable. The fueling is even through the RPM range and it's now "hold on so you don't fall off" fast. This is a weird sensation; I have never felt like I was going to fall off the back of a bike when accelerating, but I now have that sensation. My friend was riding behind me on a shake-out run and didn't get any unburnt fuel smell when I was on it. The bike is burning perfectly. No noticeable difference in fuel economy either. I had no idea how much better this bike could get when I got it; the difference the way it operates now is astonishing.
For those contemplating the exhaust, it's tuned perfect for my tastes. It burbles nicely at idle, screams at full-go but doesn't drone when cruising. I was worried that it would be irritating on long trips but there is none of that. At moderate throttle positions, the sound is not perceptible over wind noise but when you get on it, it sounds glorious. The sound at full go is purposeful but classy. Not ignorant and barky like shorty's or V&H pipes without the quiet baffles. They are really perfect (for me) and controllable with your right hand as you might want/need.
GTM hit it out of the park with this combo. I had no idea that my bike could be this good... Well done Todd and thank you for your support and assistance in getting up and running.
Now I wait for the long Canadian winter to pass...
I read and re-read the instructions on this thread and those provided by Todd before embarking on the ECU flash. The YouTube video that GTM provides was very helpful and my experience followed that pretty closely. Once I had the ECU flashed, I removed the stock exhaust, floorboards, and side trim panels necessary to access the O2 sensor wiring. I found it was best just to remove all of this at the beginning as it made routing the PC6/AT wiring much easier. I then proceeded with the PC6/AT wiring as per the instructions on this thread. I did find that on my bike, I was unable to locate the PC6 and AT300 under the left side cover due to the factory alarm module taking up too much room. I located the PC6 on the ECU cover, which makes it much easier to connect to a PC for pulling data and leaves enough room under the side cover for the AT300 and extra wiring. I also found that the wire for my keyed 12V source for the PC6 was not the same colour as in the instructions. Use a multimeter to be sure you have the right one. Also note that you need the Power Core software from Dynojet for the PC6 and not the PCV software that you use for the PCV. They are different and your PC won't recognize the PC6 without the right software. Other than this, the installation was straightforward and as per instructions. Make sure you route the right wires to the right/left cylinders, I needed to look deeper into the thread to find out which ones went to which cylinder.
Installation of the exhaust was also fairly straightforward and the quality of the fabrication of the product is really unbelievable; the work is literally perfect and no issues with fitment. I followed the instructions and it went together without issue. It's a bit fiddly to get it all aligned properly with such tight tolerances at the joints, but if you've got it right, it will fit together perfectly. I struggled a little initially to get everything aligned, but realized that it was because I had not installed it properly. I removed it and tried again and it went on perfectly. Make sure that you wear gloves and use a good degreaser to remove finger prints from the exhaust before you get it hot or it will show them. You will get bluing of the header pipes but if it's uneven you can polish it clean with some stainless compound. There are substantial weight savings going to the GTM exhaust also.
When I fired it up the first time I was floored. First by the fact that I had apparently got the install right enough that it fired and second that the bike sounded amazing. Burbly at idle but not ignorant. I did notice that my left cylinder was running hotter than the right. A little troubleshooting with Todd and a remote tuning session and we had it all sorted out. I have to say that the technical support offered by GTM is second to none.
Now for the good stuff; what is the result? I took it easy on the bike for the first hour or so just to make sure everything was working. As things seemed fine I started using more right hand and then started wringing it out. I'm so pleased with the results. All the slow speed surging is gone. On/off throttle response is so much smoother to the point where it is noticeable in terms of control in the corners. In town it completely gets rid of the surging and it now looks like I actually know how to operate the bike... The man parts-cooking heat is better to the point where it's completely comfortable. The fueling is even through the RPM range and it's now "hold on so you don't fall off" fast. This is a weird sensation; I have never felt like I was going to fall off the back of a bike when accelerating, but I now have that sensation. My friend was riding behind me on a shake-out run and didn't get any unburnt fuel smell when I was on it. The bike is burning perfectly. No noticeable difference in fuel economy either. I had no idea how much better this bike could get when I got it; the difference the way it operates now is astonishing.
For those contemplating the exhaust, it's tuned perfect for my tastes. It burbles nicely at idle, screams at full-go but doesn't drone when cruising. I was worried that it would be irritating on long trips but there is none of that. At moderate throttle positions, the sound is not perceptible over wind noise but when you get on it, it sounds glorious. The sound at full go is purposeful but classy. Not ignorant and barky like shorty's or V&H pipes without the quiet baffles. They are really perfect (for me) and controllable with your right hand as you might want/need.
GTM hit it out of the park with this combo. I had no idea that my bike could be this good... Well done Todd and thank you for your support and assistance in getting up and running.
Now I wait for the long Canadian winter to pass...
Moto-Uno
High Miler
And those Canadian winters are LONG 
. Peter
. Peter
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LOL. Did you think that those of us who have been saying this for 12 years, were just blowing smoke?
The difference is like night and day. You are absolutely correct in that although at speed, she flies with a smoothness and grace that did not exist before, where my Stelvio NTX really outshines my best friends, is in the slow speed throttle control. No hurky-jerky at all. Just smooth, tractable throttle control and fueling. It's truly stunning in its performance and rideability.
Welcome to the club!
I wouldn't think you'd get the bluing on the headers after the install being with the richer fuel delivery the EGT's should be lower??
Per above, quickly sorted. No need to guess.
Thanks for posting here, and always happy to see the rare few posts from those who really feel the difference.
Love to get your words on the purchase page linked below as a Review (please), as they really do help me and others looking to purchase. Happy to be of help, and don't forget to send your PC map seasonally and/or at every service at a minimum.
PC-6/AT300/GTM 5AM/7SM ECU Flash Tool
Power Commander 6 w/AutoTune-300 & GTM® ECU Flash Tool Programmer This is a FULLY dynamic system. Includes our GTM Flash Tool with the PC-6 and AutoTune-300 – w/two Bosch wide band 02-sensors to replace the OEM narrow band 02-sensors. Note: The stock fuel system is NOT dynamic/adaptable like...
gtmotocycles.com
OK
I went and ordered this setup today. I've read and read and read about the benefits of how this system makes the Cali so much better but I was still on the fence about buying it HOWEVER when I found out that it will also cure ED I couldn't order it fast enough!!!! Can't wait!
I went and ordered this setup today. I've read and read and read about the benefits of how this system makes the Cali so much better but I was still on the fence about buying it HOWEVER when I found out that it will also cure ED I couldn't order it fast enough!!!! Can't wait!
- Joined
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Congratulations! You will be very pleased with it I am sure.
HOWEVER…
Do yourself and everybody else here a HUGE FAVOR.
READ THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FROM BEGINNING TO END BEFORE YOU GO TO DO THE INSTALL. HONESTLY, IT WILL INCREASE YOUR SUCCESS AND ENJOYMENT MUCH MORE WHEN YOU UNDERSTAND WHERE YOU ARE GOING BEFORE YOU BEGIN THE JOURNEY.
Please understand fully what you are doing, before you tear into it. This has been 100% the issue with people here who start bitching about it. It has nothing to do with the equipment, but rather Operator Idiocy.
DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES LIKE ONE POOR PERSON HERE DID. YOU CUT NOTHING. GOOD LUCK!
HOWEVER…
Do yourself and everybody else here a HUGE FAVOR.
READ THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FROM BEGINNING TO END BEFORE YOU GO TO DO THE INSTALL. HONESTLY, IT WILL INCREASE YOUR SUCCESS AND ENJOYMENT MUCH MORE WHEN YOU UNDERSTAND WHERE YOU ARE GOING BEFORE YOU BEGIN THE JOURNEY.
Please understand fully what you are doing, before you tear into it. This has been 100% the issue with people here who start bitching about it. It has nothing to do with the equipment, but rather Operator Idiocy.
DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES LIKE ONE POOR PERSON HERE DID. YOU CUT NOTHING. GOOD LUCK!
Well a worse case scenario, I'll just go back to taking Viagra!...OH..Wait.. Are you talking about the install on the bike..??
Thanks Scott.
We have a C14T currently in the shop that was a buyer install. They used a (different then recommended) poor ground location; Powder-coated surfaces are insulators, even if a bolt into the frame, causing a sporadic throttle position and RPM. Then they revised the AFR tables (please do not, nor accept Trims) and rode it heavily out of tune, never reaching out for help. The bike was in the shop for a no-start he suspected “might be ECU related,” but it was the starter button wiring.
Just an FYI to those reading this thread.
We have a C14T currently in the shop that was a buyer install. They used a (different then recommended) poor ground location; Powder-coated surfaces are insulators, even if a bolt into the frame, causing a sporadic throttle position and RPM. Then they revised the AFR tables (please do not, nor accept Trims) and rode it heavily out of tune, never reaching out for help. The bike was in the shop for a no-start he suspected “might be ECU related,” but it was the starter button wiring.
Just an FYI to those reading this thread.