This thread houses info on the E5 V7-850. Yes it is important to do front and rear upgrades together, especially if you are outside of the target stock weight ranges (155-170 lbs in gear). If your car needed a suspension upgrade, you wouldn’t do on end only, correct? On a motorcycle, it’s even more critical.
See bottom below for a general how-to when upgrading to Matris or Bitubo components offered in our (GTM) STORE below.
All items we use, recommend and sell here;
Stock specs:
Front fork travel: 130 mm / 5.1"
Target total sag: 43.33 mm / 1.7"
Rear wheel travel: 99 mm / 3.9"
Target total sag: 30mm / 1.2"
I recommend pushing the forks up in the triple trees 10-20mm. This will help with stability and turn in, especially those who enjoy twisty road riding.
Measured with 190 # rider on board as delivered:
Kaifa forks:
Unl. 182 mm
Stat. 148 mm
Lad. 132 mm
TSag: 50 mm
Target: 43.33mm
KYB shocks:
Unl. 3XX mm
Stat. 3XX mm
Lad. 3XX mm
TSag: XX mm
Target: 30 mm
GTM 2S shocks:
365mm Unladen
3XXmm Static
3XX Laden
??mm total sag out of box
Set to: 3XXmm
30mm total target sag
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR UPGRADED FORK COMPONENTS:
If any or none of below isn't clear to you, we recommend consulting a local suspension specialist, and/or use a Google search on disassembly of damper rod forks, brand is not so important. These are basic instruction for people who are capable. Fork seals are NOT needed for installation of any fork kit we sell. We strongly do not recommend any attempt to drain the fork oil while on the bike, but someone always will and try to prove us wrong; Your bike, do as you wish. Measure and note the drained amount per side. Replace what you drain. Leaky fork seals don’t count.
Support and raise the bike to allow the front end to suspend without weight on the wheel/tire. With the basic Matris FKE or Bitubo KB1 kit, if the bike is new enough without a need for fork oil change, it can be done on bike. Many choose to remove them for simplicity and ease. Loosen both upper and lower triple clamp bolts, one side at a time. Slide the fork(s) upward 10~15mm above the top triple to loosen the fork cap. We STRONGLY recommend leaving them at this measurement when done. Use a caliper to ensure side to side accuracy. Once evenly above the top triple, tighten the lower triple bolt to stop rotation of the tube to loosen the top cap. If you are replacing the fork oil, you must remove the complete fork leg to drain; Remove the fork cap, stock fork springs and preload spacers using a magnetic and/or wire pick/hook tool, or simply turn over in a large drain pan to empty. If you are not replacing the fork oil, the flow valve can be lowered into the fork (in place/on bike) to sit in the top of the damper rod assembly using THIS type of tool. It must seat down fully centered into the top of the damper rod. Then slowly lower in the springs and spacers. The fork caps, spacers, springs (and Matris flow valve) interlock into the springs to help alleviate spring slap noise to the fork tubes. If installed fully/properly, the cap should thread on with little force. If it requires any significant pressure, the flow valves are likely not fully seated, or one of the parts is not in place.
The Matris or Bitubo cartridge kits require removal of the forks. Same as above, loosen the fork caps while still in the triples, using the lower clamp bolt to keep it from rotating, same in reverse when installing. In the very bottom of the slider is a recessed hex bolt (that requires a long M8 allen socket and electric impact, without both you will have an infuriating time/process) to remove the damper rod assembly - We recommend loosening this bolt before removing the fork cap to keep force on the internal stock parts to limit rotation. Remove the fork cap, spacers, springs and damper rods and allow to drain fully (spray/clean as needed). Install the cartridge assembly, tighten bottom allen bolt, then add oil to spec/level, being sure to bleed out the air as you fill. Search online on a how to if you are not familiar with this process. If the forks are too firm or too soft, they likely have air in them.
From there, be sure to set preload (and balance the damping, rebound and compression if using the Matris or Bitubo cartridges) to your rear shocks, as noted top post here.
See bottom below for a general how-to when upgrading to Matris or Bitubo components offered in our (GTM) STORE below.
All items we use, recommend and sell here;
Stock specs:
Front fork travel: 130 mm / 5.1"
Target total sag: 43.33 mm / 1.7"
Rear wheel travel: 99 mm / 3.9"
Target total sag: 30mm / 1.2"
I recommend pushing the forks up in the triple trees 10-20mm. This will help with stability and turn in, especially those who enjoy twisty road riding.
Measured with 190 # rider on board as delivered:
Kaifa forks:
Unl. 182 mm
Stat. 148 mm
Lad. 132 mm
TSag: 50 mm
Target: 43.33mm
KYB shocks:
Unl. 3XX mm
Stat. 3XX mm
Lad. 3XX mm
TSag: XX mm
Target: 30 mm
GTM 2S shocks:
365mm Unladen
3XXmm Static
3XX Laden
??mm total sag out of box
Set to: 3XXmm
30mm total target sag
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR UPGRADED FORK COMPONENTS:
If any or none of below isn't clear to you, we recommend consulting a local suspension specialist, and/or use a Google search on disassembly of damper rod forks, brand is not so important. These are basic instruction for people who are capable. Fork seals are NOT needed for installation of any fork kit we sell. We strongly do not recommend any attempt to drain the fork oil while on the bike, but someone always will and try to prove us wrong; Your bike, do as you wish. Measure and note the drained amount per side. Replace what you drain. Leaky fork seals don’t count.
Support and raise the bike to allow the front end to suspend without weight on the wheel/tire. With the basic Matris FKE or Bitubo KB1 kit, if the bike is new enough without a need for fork oil change, it can be done on bike. Many choose to remove them for simplicity and ease. Loosen both upper and lower triple clamp bolts, one side at a time. Slide the fork(s) upward 10~15mm above the top triple to loosen the fork cap. We STRONGLY recommend leaving them at this measurement when done. Use a caliper to ensure side to side accuracy. Once evenly above the top triple, tighten the lower triple bolt to stop rotation of the tube to loosen the top cap. If you are replacing the fork oil, you must remove the complete fork leg to drain; Remove the fork cap, stock fork springs and preload spacers using a magnetic and/or wire pick/hook tool, or simply turn over in a large drain pan to empty. If you are not replacing the fork oil, the flow valve can be lowered into the fork (in place/on bike) to sit in the top of the damper rod assembly using THIS type of tool. It must seat down fully centered into the top of the damper rod. Then slowly lower in the springs and spacers. The fork caps, spacers, springs (and Matris flow valve) interlock into the springs to help alleviate spring slap noise to the fork tubes. If installed fully/properly, the cap should thread on with little force. If it requires any significant pressure, the flow valves are likely not fully seated, or one of the parts is not in place.
The Matris or Bitubo cartridge kits require removal of the forks. Same as above, loosen the fork caps while still in the triples, using the lower clamp bolt to keep it from rotating, same in reverse when installing. In the very bottom of the slider is a recessed hex bolt (that requires a long M8 allen socket and electric impact, without both you will have an infuriating time/process) to remove the damper rod assembly - We recommend loosening this bolt before removing the fork cap to keep force on the internal stock parts to limit rotation. Remove the fork cap, spacers, springs and damper rods and allow to drain fully (spray/clean as needed). Install the cartridge assembly, tighten bottom allen bolt, then add oil to spec/level, being sure to bleed out the air as you fill. Search online on a how to if you are not familiar with this process. If the forks are too firm or too soft, they likely have air in them.
From there, be sure to set preload (and balance the damping, rebound and compression if using the Matris or Bitubo cartridges) to your rear shocks, as noted top post here.
My question is...are the Bitubo and Matris shocks and fork internals my only options? Which would be better suited for a lighter rider(130lbs)? Would I benefit from a piggyback tank if I'm primarily riding on paved road and only occasionally on sections of gravel or dirt? Which would be more easily serviceable? I plan to have this bike forever so longevity and ease of service is important to me. 
. Thanks!
(I'm sure you know this, just being Captain Obvious.)