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V7-850 E5 Suspension Thread

Had a scary moment the other day while I was traveling 90 MPH on the Oklahoma Turnpike. Hit a rough patch that bucked me off my seat while my bars were simultaneously shaking back and forth. Longest two seconds of my life.

So it's time to get serious about that suspension upgrade. 😅 My question is...are the Bitubo and Matris shocks and fork internals my only options? Which would be better suited for a lighter rider(130lbs)? Would I benefit from a piggyback tank if I'm primarily riding on paved road and only occasionally on sections of gravel or dirt? Which would be more easily serviceable? I plan to have this bike forever so longevity and ease of service is important to me.

I love the look of the Ohlins SE Blackline shocks and it's the brand I'm most familiar with as a mountain biker, but am not sure if those would be compatible with my bike (2023 V7 850 SE). I saw the GT shop had Ohlins available for previous models but not for the newer 850s.

Any advise is appreciated, thanks y'all!
You get that butt clear off the seat too! I weigh 140 and frost heaves are jump ramps. Very disconcerting hitting those. As GTM mentions, set-up is worth the price of admision. I have some $$$ Ohlins shocks set up wrong and it is worse than the stock KYB's. So be warned. I wish I knew about his shop three years ago. "Lesser" shocks done right beat the $$$ stuff thrown at you, just saying.

The V7 is such a nice bike to be on and worth the set-up. I put over 7,000 miles on mine in two months before the snow flew.
 
This from my 1970-2000 motocross days. The rear shock spring used to be selected based on the leverage ratio of the suspension system. With a linkage connected to the shock giving a rising rate, you'd use a straight rate spring. The lingage supplies the rising "spring" rate. With a bike with severly foreward laid down shocks like the KTM motocross models or even the new V100S Moto Guzzi that has a laid down design there is also a rising rate so straight rate springs can work with the electronic damping.

Now look at the V7 850's rear suspension. The shocks are MILDLY foreward mounted at the top. This is really too mild in my old world of motocross to supply any real progression, so a progressive spring is needed. There is no real leverage ratio from the linkage as there really isn't one with the mild foreward mount. We have 5" or so of vertical suspension travel to get right.

The next argument is a progressive "linkage" ratio really needed? This is where expertise comes in that I certainly don't have. Understanding mere concepts isn't expertise. On the V7 it seems it needs a progressive linkage (the shock springs variable wind gets you that) to get it done for street stuff. Racing is a different story.

I throw this out to get a response and in no way suggest I'm right on street bikes, unlike long travel motocrossers, there I have some expertise. But the adjustability damping / rebound is too often the big factor over what kind of spring to use, straight or rising rate. The damping is often used to try to "fix" the wrong spring and thus can't do what damping was made to do. The entire system is critical.

Find someone who KNOWS all this stuff (HERE, at this store) and has the expertise, and buy from them as the right set-up is so, so important to be happy. Look at it this way, you buy the shock AND the expertise to get it right. My V7 850 $$$ Ohlins was set-up wrong from the dealer and I'm 100% miserable. They had the information (weight/bike/commuter) and didn't get even close to right. My shocks are useless.
 
My problem is the rear suspension. Should I cut and run on my S36PR1C1 Ohlins?
Yes, or find a local Ohlins agent that can rebuild them with the bike in their shop... Though from my vast experience with this, you still will be unhappy. Twin shock bikes all suffer from minimal travel, so longer shocks work in your favor. The good ones are all quite soft as to springs AND valving. All we offer are built to a spec we developed to offer to our customers. You'll never get a twin shock bike to work like a mono-shock, but all we offer is drastically better per the reviews and posts here. Hope that helps.
 
Yes, or find a local Ohlins agent that can rebuild them with the bike in their shop... Though from my vast experience with this, you still will be unhappy. Twin shock bikes all suffer from minimal travel, so longer shocks work in your favor. The good ones are all quite soft as to springs AND valving. All we offer are built to a spec we developed to offer to our customers. You'll never get a twin shock bike to work like a mono-shock, but all we offer is drastically better per the reviews and posts here. Hope that helps.
I assumed as much. The Ohlin's are set-up for a 220 pound rider on a race track! I'll start the rear suspension over again, and review the choices you have. They all seem to get good marks set-up properly, and that's to also be expected. I do like the idea of adjustable rebound and compression damping so I'll budget to get that but hope I never ever use it!

There has to be a compromise I agree. Getting the big bangers right means a likely firmer small bump ride and the opposite. My bike, as is, manages to do poorly on ANY sized bump. I need it to be better on small to medium bumps and I'll steer around the bigger stuff. Seems the way it is on twin shock bikes.

Thanks so much for your store and site. You have a terrific sales/store idea here!
 
I assumed as much. The Ohlin's are set-up for a 220 pound rider on a race track! I'll start the rear suspension over again, and review the choices you have. They all seem to get good marks set-up properly, and that's to also be expected. I do like the idea of adjustable rebound and compression damping so I'll budget to get that but hope I never ever use it!

There has to be a compromise I agree. Getting the big bangers right means a likely firmer small bump ride and the opposite. My bike, as is, manages to do poorly on ANY sized bump. I need it to be better on small to medium bumps and I'll steer around the bigger stuff. Seems the way it is on twin shock bikes.

Thanks so much for your store and site. You have a terrific sales/store idea here!
GTM,

OK, I looked over the choices. I have the MODEL 10 V7 (black/white scheem in my little ICON). The MATRIS M40KC with the piggyback look like they will work if we use the black spring but with the chrome body. Can we do that? My take is the proper set-up is a longer shocks. I'm not sure if this is the shaft travel or the length and the same shaft travel. One changes the geometry and the other both travel and geometry. Also, move the forks up 20 mm too? I have the matris F15K cartridge kit with 6.5 springs and 5W oil.

I'm 140 and 165 with all my stuff on (it's heavy!). I commute ride, I don't race. I brake in the street I'm on and make my turns "apex" in that street so I can see the surface I am leaned over on and am going upright right after the apex into the blind part of the corner on the next street. I brake early for ninety degree street turns and not so much in the turns, dirt bike style. There is way too much sand and gravel in turns in tbhe midwest from thunderstorms washing it into the street. Don't know if this makes a difference at all.

I can make an order shortly once I know it's the right thing to do. The Matris seem to have straight reat springs and the Bitubo look to have variable rate springs to add to the confusion. I clearly screwed this all up already so I'll stop worrying and let you do it!

For now I'll be installing the Brembo brake master cylinder kit when the items arrive! I'll sell the Ohlin's on Ebay I ssuppose. I'm too far away to get them re-valved but a new owner has the "discount" to get it done. If you're 180-200 they are poobably fine and I have the two sets of springs (heavy and light progressives). Anyone here that is in that weight range?

Do take care. I hope your business is enjoyable for you to help with the loss at home.
 
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